375hp banshees

@hoppedupandcutdown that new jalopy of your got TORS... pic's?

Pick up trigger ,to o.d. of flywheel gap. Dont recall on TORS. ( you can fine tune that later) just turn knob to raise them. it can idle high just to get it running, then adj. From there. Doubt that has anything to do with problem if, i assume, you were throttling it to try & keep it running?

2 problems correct? Rt dead&The left one's, the one firing right? You might have to pull your pipe and drain it. If you do make sure pistons correct? Try draining the carbs ( make note of amount side to side), leave fuel off & just turn it on for a few seconds , to put some fuel in bowls & try that for the left. If you can keep it running, i'd try & squirt fuel in rt/dead side. Pickup clearance is good?

Sounds like a fuel issue if it starts better with ether. Stand it up on end and see if the pipes full of fuel . If you swaped all the electrical side to side it's not that. you said you honed the cylinders. are they within spec to the piston? Oem or knock off cylinders?

Squirt fuel in dead side, see if it wakes up, rats nest in pipe

You should/have told him. I'm sure he would have taken it in 2 payments, under the table for ya... he seems to be an alright dude. Might give you a discount for telling him, so he can do the same for others too?

Swap plugs, wires... side to side ( 1ata time) make sure air filter(s) aren't over oiled choke tube back on, slides in right direction... It still wont run at hi idle ~ above pilot?

WHAT you're cheating on the HQ! Oh wait I bet you could easily load a nice big video over there, so people could see & give pointers... carry-on ~no management here Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk

Only because you removed the ground strap/screw ( so - windings werent grounded) thats why i said test to stator plate/ base ... glad you didnt get screw'd & figured it out!

Probably not, but pick up should be close to tit on flywheel, when piston is up

Not if you put fuel to it & it didnt try .. unless it sheared the key & outa time or cant breathe Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk

...Slides in backwards

If with starting fluid or fuel doesn't attempt to fire, it's gotta be electrical...assuming you checked compression, exh. For rats nest...

Toeknee...Where u iz brutha How dem terrible twoozz treat'n ya?

Just probe the steel part of stator on the table & yellow wire , no sense installing it or putting ground bracket back on ...if you'll be floating it anyway

Might be cheaper to start over, if your set on stroking a bolt on driveline would be a better, quicker choice i'd think, and you can choose low or hi port.

Hey, eyes up here, i get enough of that @ home Go from stator plate to yellow wire. Make sure you seal up that bare spot on yellow wire, where you tested by windings!

Jack it up & put it in gear and use your choice of emery cloth/ paper, sand paper, steel wool ...till you get what you want. Keep lubed, painted or cleared after.

Did you get a call from 2017 too? cray cray Da fuq is fb down or sumpin?

Long stroke or long rod? Were the power valves functional? What kind of cylinders were they? I believe the power valves smooth out the hit but you end up with about the same top end, just not like a light switch your used to ...i think Some will confuse that with lack of power, when in fact its the same , your just not going from very little power into a light switch powerband. Making port timing the same but matching the new "stroke" ( which nobody would do but) stroking will give you a little more torque Stroking the athena will not kill top end but you'll have to get any/it ported to match the stroke change. You shoulda went cpi or drive line tho, now you've gotta decide whats the better choice... to go with, to continue.

No shouldnt be connected to cdi, Un plug all plugs Pick up shouldnt effect it, should only trigger your coil to fire iirc Should be getting .26-.38 on lighting Probably an open in the lighting windings you have piercers ? check close to the base, to see if its cut in the tails or plug pins are bad.

Ah, i think most solid mount the back, maybe you could insulate the mounts somehow. + the fact you'll put them where you want, might make them be in a less stressed mount/angle Speaking of jesse i see this one isnt stuffed in the time out conex. Looks like youve got plenty more work room then i thought?

Could be acceptable depending on elevation... When you did the leak down did you look inside the exhaust and inspect the cylinder condition?

Yes 115 rod Lotta variables to guess compression , are they the same?

If you dont have access to a welder, make a bracket for the silencer @ the bolts?