grpark20

If you have an empty tank...then just use water. You only need to flow it for 1 minute, I can convert everything else, or just do the whole tank for simplicity....I'm curious now to see how the $10 mod compares to the $80 pingel. Pingel looks a hell of a lot better.

Here is my modded gas cap. You can put a normal vent tube on, but I'm putting on a vent tube 2 inches long with one of those caps with the check valve inside on top that only lets everything flow one way. With the length of the barb there is no way it is going to fall off, unless I lose the whole cap. Pics below of how it's gutted. Keep the ?'s, comments, and concerns coming.

I also gutted my gas cap...drilled a 1/2 inch hole in the top once I threw out the metal/ball stuff and installed a 1/4 MIP x 1/4 brass barb, and then just put the vent line on.

Unfortunately I'm an idiot and never tested stock pingel because I was more concerned with getting 2 lines and getting rid of the "T" It's easy to do if anyone wants to let is know. Just let it flow for 1 minute in to a pan. Then pour whats in the pan in a measuring cup.....DISCLAIMER: DON"T USE YOUR WIFES/GIRLFRIENDS/SIGNIFICANT OTHERS MEASURING CUP AND THEN COOK WITH IT. I still do plan on getting a pingel....I'm just killing time now. Just wanted to be able to remove the "T" for line routing.

I have no clue on the swinger length, but post some pictures of that beast!

The first mod with just adding the elbow and barbs will flow a whole tank in 18 min 40 sec. The second mod with drilling out centers and removing bridges will flow a whole tank in 12 min 48 sec. This is right of the pet cock. Times will more than likely go up once fuel hoses are added. Need opinions please!!

Still bored, so I modded the petcock some more. I no longer have resereve. I removed both tubes and drilled out center of top and bottom of petcock. Also removed the center bridge in the tank where the petcock holes are. I tested this flow rate and now have 4 cups of gas in one minute. This is 32 ounces. For comparison that is 1 quart of oil. That is equivalent to 15 gallans an hour. My math earlier on how long it would take to flow out a tank is wrong...trying to figure it out now. Need the experts to let me know if this is enough flow for 4 mil, 35's, and dune port. Before After

I was worried about line kinking....if the experts here say it's a go, then I'll try. I'm on the fence with getting a pingel!?

Not great if it's not functional to stop a melt down!!?? I used 5/16 inch barbs that are 1/8 inch MIP. I have no clue what MIP means...I pretty much took the petcock to the store with me and had a mental picture and pieced it togther there with what looked like it will fit!

Just checked the flow rate. This modded petcock flowed 2.75 cups of gas in one minute. That equals 22 ounces. So for comparison that is just a smidge shy of 2 cans of soda. I have a handy dandy converter and at this rate the petcock will flow 10.3 gallans an hour. This is the maximum flow. All you engineers out there let me know if I'm making no sense. With this rate to flow out the entire tank (3.2 gallons) it will take 18 1/2 minutes. So good, bad, ugly?

OK, got bored today and modded up the stock petcock. I drilled out the other side and added elbow and a barb. I'm not too concerned with getting the same flow as a pingel but mainly getting dual lines to avoid the "T" to make routing lines easier. I can drill out the actual part of the petcock that allows reserve and "on" to flow so that they both flow at the same time and still be able to shut off the fuel. I do not know if I need to do this though for my fuel needs? Pics are below of what it looks like and surprisingly it doesn't leak. I've got $10 in it so far. I'm going out right now to get an actual flow rate of the tank with the gas cap on and no lines on petcock....gonna let the gas flow right out of pet cock into a pan for 1 minute and measure how much gas flowed. I did notice that the part with the elbow flows a smidge lighter than the straight part. Plan on running the elbow part line to the left carb being its the closest and the straight line to the right carb since it's the fartherest. Need comments, suggestions, and concerns. I do plan on buying a pingel but entertain me please. Also is pingel needed with 4 mil, 35's, and dune port....other mods in sig if needed. I'll be back in 15 min with flow rate.

#1 First time installing cool head, tightening down nuts, and SNAP. Thought I was fucked at getting the broke stud out and relized I could turn it out by hand......bought a clymers and torque wrench. #2 Testing out new cool head with bumped compression and VF3's. Doing donuts and grip came off with me rolling the shee.....no longer use hair spray for installing grips. #3 Got all parts back from powder coater, put the seals back in dog bone and installed on bike, forgot dust caps after already filled with greese. #4 Bought frame off ebay, supposedly show quality....idiot that had it powder and baked over steering stem bearing.....sold frame and trail plastics for enough to get fullbores #5 Have one of those magnetic pans for all the shee bolts and nuts. While polishing pipes flipped it over in the garage from the top of table while dog going crazy in garage trying to eat the nuts and bolts #6 Freshly painted white and finished garage.....learned how to polish with bench grinder..polished for 6 hours on pipes...Blue stream of polish on everything in line with the wheel from cealing to walls to garage door...Have lots of tarps now #7 Spent 1 day trying to get right sized bolt for shee. Ace hardware is quarter mile away...lost original bolt twice, dropped magnetic pan will all bolts when getting out of truck...I know take the one bolt I know is right and tape it to the inside of my wallet This is it so far, but lately my 5 minute jobs take hours. I think my wife ginxes the hell out of me because she always ask how long it will take. I now say 4 hours even if I'm changing a tire. Good ridance 08 and welcome 09.

I've been wandering the exact same thing.

So do these work well with the boss intakes with the built in crossover tube?

I think the biggest issue with full flight is the bolt/nut for spindle and heim dropping out.....for mine I followed the directions to a "T". cleaned all the threads, apllied a lot of the red loctite, followed torque specs, and let it sit for 24 hrs......actually about 2 months due to current build....If I lose a bolt or nut, I'm just going to order ball joints over heims.....As far as the arm, couldn't beat the quality for the chromoly everything in my opinion. Supposedly back in the day full flight was crap due to the metals used....as far as I know now the only issue I know of is the one I stated above, which could very easily be user error. For a little insurance you could do a tac weld.....but that would get annoying if you have to tear it all apart a lot.

Thanks for the info so far.....anyone tried the dual feed pingel with reserve....In case you can't tell, the losing reserve is kind of the only thing holding me back from getting a pingel. I know I could just keep a watchfull eye on the tank, but to me that seems like a nusance to me. To date I've only needed reserve once. How does the saying go....I'd rather have it and not need it than need it and not have it. It's not 100% needed, just cheap insurance flow wise. If I can mod a stock petcock enough to efficiently flow a little more with 2 lines, I'll go that route. As far as putting another petcock on the other side of the tank????? someones had to of done it? Issues? Sealing? Mounting? Sorry for the rambling on.

I got everything done on mine for $600. Total of 43 pieces including frame. Everything was trashed becaused It was a trail bike. So bead blasting, primed, and powdered. I know its not the best price in my opinion, but worth every penny to me. The coat is on really thick to the point where when I put on my brake line clamps they didn't spin with the bolt/screw in......Oh this was a one day turn around at my shop too....nothing extra for that. Few pics below http://i400.photobucket.com/albums/pp83/gr...20/DSCN0322.jpg

I know this thread is old as hell...but the search worked so here's the question....any one else been able to make this work with the stock petcock....all this talk I here about the dual pingel is that the flow is nice but the craftsmanship and quality isn't worth the $$$$. Also looking at possibly putting another petcock on the other side of tank....tips or suggestions?

Forgive me if I'm anidiot but how would you get this not to leak? I've never taken my petcock off so have no clue what it looks like on the tank....I'm about to get a dual pingel is whasy I ask and I hate the fact that I'm going to be loosing reserves. Any one else done this with success? Are the two humps on the tank even?

Rebuild and revalve through elka is like $300ish depending on what all is needed. You can get brand new straight from elka front shockss with rezzies preload and compression adjustable for $780 shipped or ATV galaxy for $750 shipped......the rear is the same price and has remote rezzie and rebound adjustment....If the shocks need a rebuild it's not worth it in my opinion....if they are already set up for you then its a deal.

I spent $6K off the show room floor in 06....before I knew about the HQ.....current build in sig added another $3K in frame and another $3K in engine, which is on it's way to Jeff right now. NO REGRETS. I must say that wwhen I finish this build I'll be getting a 125 to ride the local trails and the shee is strictly dunes.

Get a heat gun...heat up the burnt on part, grab a paper towel and wipe it off when hot...wear gloves. As far as keeping pipes good and not blueing....get a harbor freight bench polisher...$50ish and blue magic.....and an hour. I had T-5s for 2 years in the trails with mud, snow, blueing, you name it.....now they look like this after an hour... http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=105484

sold.....pending payment

Up for sale are my Toomey T-5s with Hush Kit. Set up is practically flawless. No re welds, no rust, no blueing, no dents bigger than a pen tip, and FULLY POLISHED. Hush kit has spark arrester also. The pictures don't do this set up justice. The only thing on these pipes are finger prints and dust. There are several pics......look at them all. Small dings in silencers from normal riding....tried to get to show up in the pics. $500 shipped to lower 48 for entire set up. No pipe clamps. I do paypal. http://i400.photobucket.com/albums/pp83/gr...20/DSCN0480.jpg http://i400.photobucket.com/albums/pp83/gr...20/DSCN0481.jpg http://i400.photobucket.com/albums/pp83/gr...20/DSCN0482.jpg http://i400.photobucket.com/albums/pp83/gr...20/DSCN0483.jpg http://i400.photobucket.com/albums/pp83/gr...20/DSCN0484.jpg http://i400.photobucket.com/albums/pp83/gr...20/DSCN0485.jpg http://i400.photobucket.com/albums/pp83/gr...20/DSCN0486.jpg http://i400.photobucket.com/albums/pp83/gr...20/DSCN0487.jpg http://i400.photobucket.com/albums/pp83/gr...20/DSCN0488.jpg http://i400.photobucket.com/albums/pp83/gr...20/DSCN0489.jpg http://i400.photobucket.com/albums/pp83/gr...20/DSCN0490.jpg http://i400.photobucket.com/albums/pp83/gr...20/DSCN0491.jpg http://i400.photobucket.com/albums/pp83/gr...20/DSCN0492.jpg http://i400.photobucket.com/albums/pp83/gr...20/DSCN0493.jpg http://i400.photobucket.com/albums/pp83/gr...20/DSCN0494.jpg http://i400.photobucket.com/albums/pp83/gr...20/DSCN0495.jpg http://i400.photobucket.com/albums/pp83/gr...20/DSCN0496.jpg http://i400.photobucket.com/albums/pp83/gr...20/DSCN0497.jpg

I've read a couple posts that say if you spray the inside of your pipes with hi-temp paint they will never blue on the outside again. A lot of the blueing can be eliminated from propper jetting too. My pipes blued severly when I was brand new and couldn't even spell jetting. Now they're polished back to chrome and I just want the extra insurance.