grpark20

Thanks! That answeres most of my questions. Next info needed is do I have to run the spring and lever that the spring goes on? I read one post that said it is not needed unless you are running TORS. Is this fact or opinion?

I recently yook apart my stock thumb throttle to get it all powder coated. I'm such an idiot for not taking pictures before disassembling. I need to know how to put the throttle back together. Also, do you have to keep the spring inside the thumb throttle assembly.....trying to save the thumb. I'll be adding Jeff's springs, fresh cable, and cascade extender. Pictures would be very, very helpful if anyone has them. Thanks in advance.

So do you think the same size...20x10x10 in 10 paddle would be better or loose the 10 inch rims. This will mostly be a play bike too? I have no cluse, that's why I'm asking and trying to argue a side I know nothing about. Forgive me if I'm being an idiot.

I respect your opinion, but do you have experience with both set ups? Not trying to be a dick.

Yes, stock cylinders.

I need to know if I will blow the tires off with this set up!? I'm not big into dragging, mainly playing around. I still want to be able to hook up, but play around too. I have, or will have, a 4 mil long rod set up with port work to match from Jeff @ F.A.S.T. and 33 PWK's. Suspension is +2+1 a-arms, +4 swingarm, elka dune edition shocks valved for the set up. I will be running stock gearing...14 tooth front, 41 tooth rear. I weigh 220 lbs if that matters? I plan on running 20x10x10 9 paddle haulers and 21x7x10 mowhawks. I'll be riding in all types of sand....heavy, light, tacky, etc. So will I blow the tires off? Feel free to offer up suggestions.

Just letting everyone know. It's now or never.

Elka just sent me info saying that everything is 15% off due to economic factors. If I can get the 15% off on top of my 10% military discount, then I'm gonna order all the shocks. The fronts will be dual rate piggyback with compression and preload adjustable and the rear the same with adding the rebound adjustability. Price will be $1300ish if they do it. If it's a no go Jeff @ F.A.S.T. is getting the cash for the engine. Does anyone see any negative factors to this shock set up?

Thanks for the info! So far I've made up my mind to get a dual rate set up with the piggyback style ressies. Now I just have to choose the name. I've heard good things about TCS, but by the time I get the minimums that I want it will be within $100 of Elka. The only selling point that would make me spend the extra $$ for Elka is the shocks look bad ass and would match my bike a lot more. Hopefully more will chime in and suggest what I actually need vs want.

I'm too the point in my build where I am looking for suspension and really don't know jack. I do know that suspension is the most important part of the build. I already have +2+1 A-Arms, +4 swingarm, and the g-force adjustable axle. I will be putting in this set up a 4 mil long long rod with matching dune port. I will ride 100% dunes but will be doing 10% jumping 80% playing around and 10% dragging. I'm not asking anyone to build the shock for me on this site, I just need the education on what I need. I'm not going to ask a company what I need to rape me. What is dual rate, tripple rate, do I need all these adjustments to rebound, compression, remote resorvoir, piggyback, etc. I know the general theory, but how do you determine what you need. I'm not too worried about the price because I'm a firm believer in you get what you pay for. At the same time I don't want to spend $1,000 more for something that is only going to perform 5% better than Brand X. Please school me and don't hold back.

Anyone? What is the length of the stock rear brake line?

I've found a local shop that will make my stainless steel brake lines with fittings, new banjo bolts, and washers for $75. I need to know the lenght of the front brake lines with stock arms or +2+1. I will be running 2 lines off the master cylinder. I also need to know what is the length on a brake line for a +4 swingarm with round style carrier. I am at work, so I can't measure. I did have a 28 inch rear line that was way too long. I should have measured then but I didn't. Thanks!

I have a brand new black stainless steel rear brake line with washers. It is too long for the set up I am running. The package was opened to check the length. The washers have not even been crushed. The total lenght of the brake line is 28 inches. Price is $25 shipped to lower 48 states.

I hope this is the right forum being this is a mod I did. If not maybe someone could move it. I wanted to clean up my bars for my build and this is what I came up with. I have a toggle for the kill and a toggle for the clamps and a bracket I made mounted directly to the pro taper bar risers. I also mounted my teather in between the bar risers. Let me know what you think. I got a couple pics of the taillight and the fullbores on too. The light is an R6 led tail/brake light and is super bright. Like I said I had a lot of time on my hands.

What kind of reeds are you running?

Thanks for all the info everyone.

I've got a tag metals polished front bumper. It's got dings and small dents all over it from trail riding, but still looks good. Fitment is crappy like all the tag metals bumpers, but I did manage to get it on. Took about an hour. I can take a pic when I get home. $50 shipped. If you want it PM me.

Is there any special kind of asembly grease that you use when putting the engine back together? Also do you use sealant on the reed gaskets? If so what kind? I'm using threebond 1211 on case halfs.

Will you hurt anything or will everything still fit properly if you use the cushion rings anyway?

I have for sale in the for sale form for $110 shipped. It has the spark arrester too.