grpark20

I just thought of this.....what about a wire brush that goes on the drill with one of those extendable flexible cords to try and reach in really far. I only have to clean like the first 8-12 inches since this is the part that usually gets the hottest and blues. What do you think? Also, does the hi-temp paint have to be white or will any color hi-temp paint work?

I am going to paint the inside.....I definately know the concrete acid stuff will strip them, but don't know the efects it will have on the chrome? Anybody else got any ideas? Be nice if someone had a junk pair of header pipes and tried before I ruin my T-5's. It would give me a reason to get Shearer's or CPIs

Well, I have some down time and want to go ahead and clean the carbon out of the head pipes on my T-5's. I just repolished them back to chrome and found the trick about spraying hi-temp paint in them to stop the blueing from happening (aside from properly jetting). My question is do I need to clean the carbon out of them or just spray away? If I need to clean, then how and what do you use?

I'm down depending on price!!

Thanks for all the help everyone. I just decided to go with whats in my sig. A deals not a deal unless you need it!

Would it be beneficial to put a tz bearing on both sides or is it just too much over kill?

Thanks for the update!! I'm just going with 2 sets...one for drag and one for play since there seems to be no happy medium.

What kind of bearings on the crank, does it have an extra weld or just the weld from hot rods, and how many hours on crank?

PM sent

Any update to how the new tires performed compared to the old set up?

Looking for a stock aluminum silver colored front rim that is not warped. I don't care about the dings, just need a rim ASAP. Need a price for the rim shipped to 98387. If you got a pic that would be great too. I can trade some stuff too....I have I straight steering stem with a tweeked petal at the bottome, K&N Air Filter and outerwear for pro flow intake, and a magnetic drain plug and expanding T-handle drain plug. Let me know.

Well I can get a screamin deal on these tires. They have one trip on them and have no flaws. The fronts are smooth buffs size 23x8.5x12 and the rears are 23x10.5x12 10 paddle haulers. They are on show quality polished to chrome look alluminum rims. I don't think these are normal hauler sizes, but think the seller is a retard and just measuring the actual tire instead of looking on the side. Will a 4 mil with aggressive dune port and all the bolt ons(see sig) be able to turn these efficiently? I can get these for $200ish, but if they aren't going to do me any good then I'm back to the set up in my sig for $600ish. Let me know what you think.

Amen Brotha!!! I personally feel good about having to wait a minimum of a month for a builder. It lets me think they are taking the time to do the job right. Besides, most of the big builders advertising is by word of mouth versus prices. I'd rather know a builder is more worried about getting a bad name from customers then turning out 100 engines a month. Also the integrity factor. If a big builder for some reason screws up some porting, I'd believe they would own up to it and replace the jugs. I do not think a smaller builder would do this. From the stories I've read on here there is only one builder I will ever send stuff to....F.A.S.T. I do not care about the price....building a quality shee will never be cheap. I'm not saying the other big builders are crap, just my personal preferance is to go to F.A.S.T. It also says something when a big builder recommends another do to there turn around time or helps someone out by taking parts off there own bike. Very few places in America offer this kind of customer service, so price was the very last factor for me.

Not trying to bust your balls...but try a search. Any aftermarket shock that is set up to you...valving, +2+1 a-arms, ridingn style, etc., is going to be 10 times better than stock no matter what brand. The big companies do a 30 day trial to where they will revalve for free if you don't like the current valving. Of course this means you must buy new. I just recently purchased front shocks..not going to name them, don't wnat to play the brand game... and after extensive searching I've found out that if you do find a killer deal on used shocks, make sure they were valved for your exact set up. The cost will more than likely be more once you buy a set of good aftermarket shocks and then have to pay $300-$400 to ship off and have valved to you. Also, you pay for what you get. There are some reputable companies out there that rebuild the rear shock and have great results as for fronts, you need to completely buy shocks.

Get the 2nd one unless you can get the deal of the century on the Arai. Safety wise it is going to be really hard to beat the Arai. With that said everything comes with a price. As long as there is a DOT and SNELL rating, it's safe enough for me. From past experiences 99% of all helmets do their job. They are suppposed to be replaced after every bump, no matter how minimal. That mean when that BIG $$ ARAI falls off the handlebars, it should be replaced. Do I do this...HELL NO. The Arai helmet is like Axis shocks on a shee and the Thor is like stock shocks on a shee. Last factor here is be the time you buy that Arai, you can buy 2 or 3 of any other brand helmet. Arai is big for street bike riders.

Todays question is....After you guys put together a fresh engine, how long do you wait before you do a leak down test? Do you do it immediately, let the case sealant dry, wait 24 hrs, or what? Also, do you do the hold 6 psi for 6 minutes with no less than 5 psi at the 6 minute mark or? I interested in what some of the builders do too.

That is the one I am talking about!! After searching some more, I have not been able to find any schematic on bikebandit.com to show this o-ring and I'm 99% sure it wasn't on the clutch housing during teardown. But for some reason it's in the clymers. What gives?

Still a little lost Jeff.....by the way....I've gotten the OK from the wife to get my engine parts and pretty much donate the income taxes to you.....I'll be contacting you soon!

It's just a piece of wood with eye screws on the ends, so Ican get an idea of the ride height with the suspension. I just ordered elkas.

I was going over my clymers to be prepared when the time comes for me to reassemble the engine. On page 156 in the clymers the picture shows an o-ring(part 17 on the page) that goes on the back of the clutch housing. For the life of me I cannot locate this o-ring after tearing down the engine. I do however have all 7 cushion rings. Is the o-ring the same size as the cushion rings? Anyone else not have this o-ring? Is it not needed like the cushion rings for aftermarket clutches?

Can everyone call/e-mail rocky mountain and ask them to add the buffed version of the skat trak mowhawks to their inventory? I e-mailed and they said if there was a demand that their purchasing department would get them from the vendor. It make no sense why they don't offer them buffed. Besides they have the cheapest price on skat traks mounted that I can find anywhere.

I have a used magnetic drain plug and a "T" handle expanding drain plug. The magnetic drain plug will more than likely need a new crush washer. The "T" handle expanding drain plug is brand new/never used and is a very high quality piece. I fixed my stripped drain plug another way and no longer need these items. Asking $20 shipped for both. http://i400.photobucket.com/albums/pp83/gr...20/DSCN0428.jpg

I ordered the shocks from ATV Galaxy for $743.75 with free UPS 2 day shipping!! Now I'm ordering a rear tommorrow as soon as I'm finished researching rebuilding the rear for $450ish or buying the elka rear for $750ish. Anyone with experience with a rebuild and then a elka rear......your input/opinion would be greatly appreciated.

Yeah you are right........his bike is still bad ass. He says hes had zero problems.

+2 A-Arms with Douglas front rims size 10x6 with 2x4 offset will put you at 52 inches. This is on Bigreds black bike. Gives me chills everytime I see it in his signature. Looks like a mean mofo!!!