grpark20

I have for sale my wrecked 2005 4 mil F.A.S.T. shee. I know I will get a lot more money out of the deal if I part it out, but I do not have the time to part out. Just trying to hook up a HQ

TTT

I have for sale a set (left and right) stock foot pegs that are doubled up and powder coated gloss black. The powder coat is on thick. These have 2 rides on them. These were powder coated after bolting together so they look really good. The only chip in them is where the kicker stop is on the clutch side foot peg. These pegs are fairly sharp for stock pegs. They were sharpened before powder, but could be sharpened again in my opinion. THE PEG THAT WAS DOUBLED IS BOLTED TO THE FRONT OF THE STOCK PEG LOCATION MAKING THE PEGS CLOSER TO THE SHIFTER AND REAR BRAKE LEVER. Thats just the way I felt comfortable riding. IF YOU HAVE NERF BARS OR HEAL KICKS THIS MIGHT INTERFERE WITH YOUR MOUNTING. Not trying to yell, just don't want someone to buy something they don't want or didn't realize it's not what they thought it was. The only reason I'm selling is because I just got IMS Pegs with the kick ups. :biggrin: I'm asking $30 shipped to the lower 48 states. If you want international, pm me and we can figure it out. If you have any questions or concerns, please ask.

Put me down for 1 XXL red shirt - black and white writing.

On the first attempt at figuring it all out and doing research the arrow on the arm was 1/4 inch towards the stator and had the same issue. Clutch is brand spanking new and is a F.A.S.T. clutch. No grooves on clutch basket. Rod and ball are in place and are good. Actuator is good. Pancake bearing was installed when I got the bike. Cable is ran the exact same way as the old cable. After doing a lot of research on hear I read that if the actuator arm is adjusted way out towards stator side that it fries clutches. Besides in order for me to make up all the slack that I have, I'd have to get another allen bolt for the pancake bearing I have that would need to be 3 times the length. With the arrows lined up, I still get full use out of the clutch with engaging and disengaging...but the cable isn't in the slot correctly. I think this comes down to the clutch perch. Just my gut feeling. This entire clutch set up was put together by a professional reputable builder. So I'm leaning towards the perch. It just bothers me knowing it's not completely right. Will the arrows being lined up with the pancake bearing installed cause any issues?

The old cable was longer by about 1/8 inch. I'm assuming it was streched. I have 4 cables that I bought trying to get the right cable, so I'm sure. I think maybe it's the lever/perch but that doesn't make since in my head since it worked with stock clutch. It works fine how it is, but I want it to be right. I'm going to try and find a longer adjuster for the perch and if that works, I'll buy new levers from a different company. Either way this makes no since to me unless something is missing in some part of the clutch assembly.

No one has had this issue before?

Here's the story. I went from stock clutch with stock adjuster,asv lever/perch and stock cable. Everything was fine then. Now with the same lever/perch set up, new cable (yes it is 100% the correct cable), new clutch (7 friction plates, 6 steels), pancacke bearing, good push rod, good ball, I can't for the life of me get the slack out of the cable. The clutch is adjusted properly...the arrows line up when I push the actuator arm with my finger and feel the tension. With the new set up and the clutch cable placed properly in the slot on top of the case, I have about 1/4 inch of slack at the lever/perch with the adjuster on the perch all the way out. The only way as of now to be able to disengage my clutch I have to pull the cable out of the slots on top of the case and place the nipple end of the cable in front of the bracket that holds the cable to the top pf the case. In other words, instead of the cable being installed properly in the slots on top of the case, it's pulled back and towards the clutch side right in front of the normal mounting slots with the bracket holding it down. Does any one have any idea what's up? Been taking everything apart and looking at it all for 2 days and can't figure it out. The clutch operates properly with this set up like this, but I'd rather know it's right then leave it like this.

I'm kind of new to the sand scene and just built my shee for the sand. I've got elkas dune edition's all the way around. Just curious to know how the experienced sand riders set up there suspension as far as pre load compression, rebound, ride height, etc. are concerned. I mostly just dune and hoit some decent jumps if that helps. Just loking for a starting point.

Good to know about C&M. He does a lot of advertising on craigslist. I almost wanted to try him out. Never now!! Thanks.

May is 2 months away!! :biggrin: :thumbsup:

I'll keep you updated Chad! The tentative plan is to reserve a spot at the KOA. We do have a 26-30 ft camper we may bring too? I'll definately keep you updated. On the side note, my engine will be back from Jeff @ F.A.S.T. this week. I'm planning on breaking in the shee at Beverly....mainly because I haven't decided on paddles yet and can run the Razors there. Be nice to have another shee there to ride with. Shoot me a PM if interested.

I rode Moses Lake about a year ago and wasn't to impressed. This was my first time in the sand too. Seemed like there wasn't anywhere to open the shee up...this was all bolt ons only and no navigator. With that being said, with my new set up...4 mil with all goodies from F.A.S.T., for all details see profile, I will not be going to Moses lake again. After Moses I rode Beverly. This is going to sound crazy but, I had 10 times more fun at Beverly than Moses. More area's to stretch the shee's legs, jump, and just have fun. No hill climbs at beverly though. Now for the important part. My crew is planning a trip to Coos Bay, OR within the next 2 months. We'll have a navigator for the dunes. So far...all tentative, we have an unlimited supply of enclosed trailers. Also so far we have 6 quads and 2 dirtbikes with more people showing interest. We are all military so whatever we do, it'll probably be a leave on a friday morning and come back on a Sunday night. Some of these guys are retired and will be bringing their kids too if that matters to you. I'm the only Shee in the crowd. If anyone else is interested in joining up it'll be great. So far we own 2 elcosed trailers. A 26 footer and a 14 footer. We can rent enclosed trailers from the military for $75 a weekend, hence unlimited supply. We can also rent campers, but we have a hookup we're working now. If anyone interested, post up how much space you need and if you'd be willing to tow if needed. Just looking to split up gas prices, food, and other necesseties if tagging along. Obviously if you're needed to tow something you probably will be covering close to nothing or even getting paid! Let me know who's interested and remember this is all tentative and in the planning phase. George

I'm in Spanaway, WA and looking for a good group to ride with. Almost finish with my build, but waiting on the 4 mil and port from Jeff. I should be 2 weeks out max and then ready to ride. PM me details and we can try to get together.

Depends on what type of riding. I just bought an 04 YZ 250F for $1000. If riding long trails, I'd say 125. Possible track and need torque down low, go with 250F. On a side note, make sure the 250F was maintained very well. If airfilter not cleaned regularly, you might need valve adjustments soon. After valves adjusted 3 times you need to get pretty much a new top end with valves, springs, etc. and valve seats cut....bout $600-$800. If valves are in spec I say get the 250F. If not in spec get the 125. Drop a valve on the 250F and rebuild between $1000 and the sky is the limit. PM me with concerns and check out this thread.... http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=107045

No question is a dumb question if you don't know the answer.....The bottom isn't that big so I wouldn't have had enough material to thread the barb in. Another reason is because if you do use the bottom, the gas would flow like a mofo out of the bottom and not much out of the side. Once the bottom barb/line was full though it would flow out the side. And the last reason is gravity. Whether the modded pet cock flows enough or not is really the issue, I wanted to try to get rid of the "T" and for both lines to flow equal amounts...or very close to equal amounts. Once I started looking at the flow, it sparked my interest on if it'll flow enough to feed my build and then I ran from there. Sorry for rambling on.

THANK YOU!!! So the last modded petcock flows 10 ounces more than a stocker. The question now is...Is that enough? I know I keep asking over and over. What is the largest carbs and porting setup anyone has ever run safely on the stock petcock? We already know it'll hold up to stock carbs and 4 mil with port work! So what's next?

Ok....my mind is made up for sure....I'm going with the 4 stroke. If I don't like the beast I can turn it for maybe double what I paid. I also will be losing 30-40 pounds on my next deployment in June, so my weight is just a variable. I really want something that is low maintenance, since I have the shee and like to wrench on it. Not mixing gas is a plus too...but then that's just my laziness. The bike is well within specs, infact when I looked at it he had all the paperwork from picking it up from the stealership that day. It only needs a few misc. things...grips, right foot peg bent, and rear brake lever bent. Remeber I'm a rookie on the dirt on 2 wheels too! The 125's might put me on my @$$ alot or into a tree!! Gotta love than unforgiving power though. So 4 stroke it is. Thanks everyone.

I saw your dyno sheet in another forum......so how did the petcock mod hold up?

WOW! Thanks for all the help guys. As far as how I ride....I ride me shee like I stole it......as far as 2 wheels, since I consider myself a beginner in the dirt with 2 wheels, I'm going to say I'll ride very cautious to avoid the number of times I get put on my @$$. Sounds like the 4 stroke is the way to go for me. I'm not going to be racing it or putting it on the track, just going to get my fix until I can get to the sand. Now can somebody school me on 4 stroke jetting. I took a quick glance at the specs and this thing has like 5 jets in the carb. WFT!?

Thanks for all the advice and opinions guys. Like I said....this bike will be for local just to give me my fix until the weather gets better and I can get in the sand. I'm leaning towards the 04 YZ 250F 4 stroke. There is less maintenance so thats a plus. Keep the comments coming though.

Active Duty United States Air Force.....I deal with Air Transportation.......I literally do everything from point A to B as far as moving cargo and passengers in the air.

Here's the story. Currently I'm making my 05 shee dune only. All that's left is motor back from Jeff which is 2-3 weeks out. I will be getting a dirtbike to ride locally in the trails. I'm not a big fan of 2 wheels but I love my street bike...01 GSXR 750 with a few goodies. I can get 2 stroke 125's where I am all day long for $800-$1400. Or I can get a 04 YFZ 250 from my old supervisor. Yes, that is a 4 stroke, but rumor is it's equivalent to a 2 stroke 125. His son pissed him off so he'll let me get it for $1000. Even though I am just going to be in the local trails and not the biggest fan of 2 wheels, I want something that I can man handle but not suck @$$ and lug around. I'm not a prorider, but when my shee had all the possible bolt ons I man handled it...hope that helps with my experience level. I weigh in at 225 if thats a factor for the dirtbike. All my dirtbike friends say the 04 YFZ 250 is a screamn' deal. It's not ragged out, but his son rode the piss out of it..few scratches, needs grips, right peg, rear brake lever. Just serviced and it has a full FMF exhaust with some sort of $500 heavy duty rims and a few other items. All the work and mods are legit being I know this guy and know him personally. Need opinions, help, and advice.

Thanks for the info.

That sounds like a good plan. I don't really want the VIN to pop out at you, but I do want you to be able to easily identfy it if looking for it. The hardest part is going to be finding exactly where it is. I know it's on the bar under the left foot peg and faces out, but I need to be exact so I don't end up taking a wire brush to the whole bar! Can someone measure the distanc etheir VIN is away from their foot peg or take a pic of the location of the VIN in regards to the foot peg?