grpark20

I went to the DMV and they refferred me to the State Patrol. The guy I spoke to on the phone was a DICK!!! He didn't really want to hear my situation, honestly I think he had his mind made up that I stole the shee and was trying to make it legit. Anyway, they do not offer vin plates and he said I need to scratch off the powder coat. He even said it's illegal for me to cover it up. I say he's full of shit. If worse comes to worse and I get checked by a ranger somewhere and they threaten to impound my shee, I'll scratch off the powder coat to prove everything matches. I'm thinking of getting a wire brush wheel for a dremel and trying to etch off the powder coat directly where the VIN is and then maybe spray painting over the VIN so it's still readable. What do you think?

No worries on calling me out on my sig.....I'm not going to get all bent out of shape for something that simple. I honestly had all that stuff there so I could have a running list of everything done to my shee and not forget.....then one of the moderators gave me a great idea to just put it in my profile. No harm no foul my way. Now that I actually think about it.....it was kind of long! Thanks for letting me know. Since everyone is on this thred....CAN SOMEONE DO A FLOW TEST ON A STOCK PETCOCK AND A PINGEL VALVE!!!!!! Just asking. Thanks!

That sig happens to be mine. I've edited/deleted it. Sorry if it was annoying anyone/everyone. I personally like to read everyone's sig and not have to ask questions as to whats going on with their shee. That's just me though and I completely understand where you all are coming from. I just moved my sig to my profile. Sorry for the inconvienence<spelling>.

Sorry if I confused you...I meant you have it in the right place and I moved mine to the same spot. By your pic it looks like it may be too close to the exhaust....just my thought. I can't tell on my shee yet, being I'm waiting on my motor to come back. I'll try to post up the specific instructions in case anyone needs them. Thanks again!

Thanks for the pic and info! I did call elka and they e-mailed me the specific mounting instructions. Even though this is where elka says its mounted, it seems too close to the exhaust to me. Thanks again.

No worries for the topic....Thanks for the info!

I've got the same issues going on with my build...see sig. I've still got my money on getting the 20 inch tire with 10 inch rim. I've talked to a few reputable respectable guys and they say I'll get a lot of spin out of the set up. Thats what I want though. The 20 inch tall tire with 10 inch rim has very little side wall flex and is flatish where the paddles/tire meet the sand. The 21 inch or 22 inch tire on 8 inch rim have a lot of side wall to flex and at speed they swell. For me..opinion only... hooking almost 90% of the time would get boring with trying to fight the beast down all day...I'd rather hook 50% of the time and play like hell the rest of the time. I don't think you can have the very best of both worlds in one tire. Then again, I was told that once you get so much motor nothing is going to hook with the 20 inch tire and 10 inch rim combo. Thats the area I'm in with my build with trying to run 20x10x10 9 paddle hauler extremes. All depends on what you want, but no matter what, if you are on a shee you are going to have a hell of a good time. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong on tire info. You could always buy 2 sets of rims/tires and which ever you don't like sell. They'd have may 5 rides on them. You might loose $50-$100 bucks but be able to see what works best for you. Thats my plan by the way, but I'll get the 20 inch tire on 10 inch rim combo first. I'd rather have it and not need it than need it and not have it.

Still looking for someone to do a flow test on a stock petcock and a pingel and report back. Anyone??

Mod looks good. Glad to here a builder thinks it will flow enough. Make sure you report back to us after the dyno to let us know how it flowwed!!

Sounds good...would love to see pics......I'm not saying this will not fuel your needs, but I wouldn't run your bike hard until we get some flow tests on a pingel and possible a stock petcock.

Got it thanks!! Any body had a chance to do a flow test on stock or pingel petcock??

My bike is an 05! I'm going to go to the DMV and see what my options are.

No, not loaded....I'll have 80ish days of leave this year I need to burn, a toy hauler I can borrow, and plan on purchasing a F350 after my next deployment. The wife signed off on it as long as I get here a quad too. Plan on getting here a Honda Rancher so I can have fun in the mud when it rains. Not to mention she has 80ish days of leave too!

The only reason I ask is because within the next year I'm planning a dune trip to cover all the dunes in the USA. I guess if I were getting threatened with impounding my bike I'll scratch off the powdercoat!

Unfortunately, I've already powdered over my bin. I've seen window etching kits for cars where you send the company your vin, and they send you the kit with your vin on it. Do you think it will work on the frame?

So how do you prove the banshee is not stolen? I have clear and clean title in my name, registrartion in my name, plate stickers and tabs good. But I powdered over my vin#. Tell me how I prove it's mine to a forrrest ranger if I have to do it?

Don't know....but more for piece of mind and legalities.

What do you guys do about the vin # on your frame for powder coating? I had mine powder coated over and am wandering if there are etching kits so I can etch the the vin back on the frame? What do you guys do?

I've looked and tried about everything I can to find a better place to mount it. Probleem is there is only like 8 inches of rezzie line. I could probably mount it just fine and not be able to adjust it. Can someone post pics of where there rezzies are mounted?

I recently installed my rear elka shock. Take a look at the braided line that goes to the resovior from the top of the shock. I want to loosen that bolt a little and turn it upwards so the line isn't so stressed looking? Will I hurt anything if I do this really quick. It has copper washers on both sides of the bolt. I do not know if shock oil works the same as brake fluid with air bubbles etc. What do you think?

I haven't heard anything yet about the vent cap, but you bring up a good point! I could go with a free flo tube, but I have no where to run it since my other mod. Pic below.

If I can do this anyone can. Just start with a carbide bit to get rid of the bridges and take your time. Pull the stock brass barb thingy off with pliers and drill the hole straight through. No reason to tap the threads in the petcock as long as you are compression style pipe barbs. A little lock tite and presto! Its almost as if you are doing port work except if you mess up the pet cock you can get another for $26 brand new.

I know a +4 with stock gearing will take a 120 link chain, but does anyone know how long that is in inches? If I'm off on the link count please let me know.

Well I've gotten with the experts and pros and they feel this should fuel my needs. Before I run this balls to the wall I'd like to get the flow rate on a pingel first. So far "1996dragshee" is going to be doing a flow test. If the flow is close to a pinel (within 10 ounces) then I'll feel better with runninn it balls to the wall. If it's way short, then it was a great experiment. If anyone else wants to do a flow test, then please feel free. I'm sure everyone is just as curious as I am to see the outcome. Thanks for all the help everyone.

This is the final version of the final mod to the petcock. I think I got all the flow I can get out of the pet cock. I got a carbide bit for my dremel and cleaned up the inside of the petcock really good. Now it's smooth. With the barbs both straight I can flow 4 1/4 cups per minute. That equals 34 ounces. That is 15.9375 gallons an hour and it will take 12 min 44 sec to flow a whole tank. I put loctite on the threads to prevent the barbs from trying to back out or leak. When I install the petcock on the tank for good, I'll add a little yamabond for insurance with leaks. I think (80% sure) I'm going to stick with this for my build, and not get a pingel. I will just run a longer line for the barb that is facing the front to avoid a kink. I'll also run that line to the left carb. The barb that faces the carbs will have a line ran to the right carb. If I cannot avoid a kink, I'll get stainleess steel or kevlar fuel lines. Below is the pic and also a video of the petcock flowing just to give you an idea of what 34 ounces a minute looks like. I had a lot of time on my hands today. Let me know if you think this will satisfy my fuel needs. Video below