jbooker82

I would just as soon have oem fz1000 fibers. The cork friction material they use keeps your oil a lot cleaner than the aftermarket clutches that use kevlar or carbon fiber.

www.nossmachine.com give Dave a call and tell him what your setup is and he will get you the right domes. josh

The Klotz Flex Drive 30 is pretty good stuff. It doesnt get as dirty as fast as gear saver, hond hp, and regular engine oil. The only other oil I have tried that was as good was Silkolene Comp Gear, but it is hard to find since it is mainly used and produced in England. http://www.silkolene.com/index.php?calling=product⊂=maintain#maintain_p16 I would at least flush that Amsoil out with 2 quarts of ATF type F. Just to make sure you get it out. josh

They should pay them minimum wage to build a big fence. Then when they are done throw them on the south side of it.

You could alway send it to Brandon at Mull Engineering. It is a little more $$$ than the standard head shave job but it is doing it right by rechambering and re shaping the domes. http://www.mullengineering.com/sc/store.php/products/yamaha-banshee-yfz-rz-head-mod-billet-cut-modify-machine-squish-dome-plug-heat-race-drag-online-modify-modification

I would sell yours not hacked up. Buy a set of V Force 3's with Cascade's reed retainers / stuffers. They will help match up the intake size of the 2:1 manifold and reed cage. The v Forces come with an insert that has a small round opeaning to match the round opeaning in the stock carb boots. Cascade sells some aluminump pices that replace the small round reed stuffer / insert. Here is there web site. http://67.199.65.66/cascade_innovations/newlook/store/store_View.cfm?STORE_AREA_ID=13&store_dept_id=83

If this is the stuff that you put in your banshee then that is probably part of the problem. It also needs to be drained right away. http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/fgr.aspx This is a Hypoid Gear lube made for differentials in cars and trucks. It has aditives that will cause your clutch to slip. It is also way to thick and probably will make the jumping forward when cold even worse. I would flush it out a couple times with a cheap Automatic Transmission Fluid Type F. You can continue to run ATF type F or put an oil in it that is designed for 2 stroke transmissions. You can run a Synthetic 10w30 engine oil that is designed for wet clutches (pretty much any Motorcycle & ATV specific oil). You can also run 2 Stroke Transmission specific oils. They are a better option than a motorcycle engine oil. ATF type F is going to be the thinest and will need to be changed more frequently than 2 stroke tranmission oil. Here are some good 2 Stroke Transmission oils. I run Klotz Flex Drive 30 http://www.klotzlube.com/proddetail.asp?prod=KL%2D506%5FQuart&cat=4 Bel Ray Gear Saver is also another good oil. It comes in 75W, 80W, and 85W. The Gear Saver 80W-90, and 75W-140 are Hypoid Gear Lubes and you dont want them. I would run the 75W if you go with Gear Saver. If you shake a bottle of 80W Gear saver and a bottle of 80W-90 Hypoid Gear lube the Hypoid oil is much thicker. The 80W Gear Saver Transmission oil is about like a quart of 10W30 engine oil. http://www.belray.com/consumer/product.fsp?pid=1336 josh

If after 5 minutes of riding does it still do it? It does take a little while for the transmission oil to warm up. It doesnt circulate through the engine or crank case so it really doesnt warm up until your riding. Neutral can be hard to find. I have found it easiest to find Neutral when I rev it with the clutch pulled in and shift it in to Neutral as the RPM's are coming back down. What oil are you running in the transmission? What tempes are you riding in?

I would throw the whole thing in the garbage and start over with a 660 raptor roller. They have a lot taller engine so you will have way more room.

This is all pretty normal. The plates become a little dry and stick when it sits. It is normal for them to do this when they are cold and dry. Besides you shouldnt be riding your banshee with a cold engine any way. That is a good way to mess the top end up. I have herd guys say that a groved basket will can cause this too. But where your's quits after it is warmed up then I would say it is normal. Mine does this too with a new Hindson Basket.

I run the same jetting with my pwk's if I am slow trail riding with the family or going Wide Opean in 6th gear. I guess I dont have to lean my Keihin carbs out if I plan on doing slow speed cruzing.

I would get keihins over lectrons any day. So the way your talking about the mikuni's and keihin's you can have them jetted perfictly. Nothing changes (air temp, humidity, or elevation) then all of a sudden your jetting is totaly off. Is this what your really claiming? Maybe keihins just have to much adjustability for you. If all you want to do is turn a knob to jet your carburetor then a lectron is for you. You dont pull the bowls off Keihins to jet them. There is a 17mm plug you take out and can get to the main jet with the bowl still on.

The easy way to adjust the idle is to throw the carbs on ebay and buy a set of PWK's. When I had PJ's I had them turn out 7+ turns.

Yes the pilots will have numbers on them. I bought a set of metal idle scews from fast for my pwks. I also had to shorten the spring so I could turn the scews in a little farther. You dont adjust the Idle by adjusting the cable adjusters. That is the half ass way, do it right and get some new adjuster scews. http://www.farmandsandtoys.com/partdetail.asp?partid=119 I would also highly recomend you getting a carb sync tool. It makes getting your carbs synced dead on easy. http://www.farmandsandtoys.com/partdetail.asp?partid=59

When you did the top end did you bore it or just a hone job with same size pistons and rings?

Those bolts on the sides of the cylinders will drain the coolant out. That way you don't get any in the crank case when you pull the head or jugs. Were the ports chamfered? Did you check the ring gap?

I didn't see any wrist pin needle bearings.

The magura hydraulic clutch I had on my raptor seemed like it didn't have enough travel. The slave cylinder physically did. It would ethire not release the clutch all the way, and not slip while riding. Or it would release the clutch, and slip while riding. I tried moving the clutch arm on the splined shaft, and spacing the slave cylinger differently but I couldn't get it to work. It is like it needed a master cylinder that pumped a larger volume of fluid to get the slave cylinder to travel farther. Or make a shorter clutch arm so it didn't have to travel as far. Get you a good asv c5 lever with a pro pearch it will be just as smooth.

I would avoid the pj's. They are an older carb. There is a reason why you can get them cheap. Pwk's are the way to go.

I don't think heavy springs alone will hold, especially in a street bike. I wouldn't run a hydraulic clutch ethire. I had a magura on my raptor and it sucked.

No they arent rubbing on the frame. It just looks like it from the angle of the pic. The pipes are CPI's. If you get a set from 87sheerips. Go to the hardware store and buy a rubber stopper. Make you a couple thick rubber bushings from it and put them in between the pipe and the hanger. Use a nut that has the nylong locking insert and just barly snug it up. That way you dont fully compress the rubber bushing. You want the pipes to be able to move a little.

I would go with PWK33's if it was up to me. They are a great carb and work well on my dune ported 4mill.

What big bore kit are you going to get? If it is one where you resleeve your stock cylinders you would be way better off buying a 4 mill stroker crank with the money they charge to install new sleeves. Then have your stock cylinders ported for the 4 mill. It is a pretty hard running setup. Big bores dont give you much hp vs porting, and a 4 mill stroker crank. If it did every body would be punching there stock jugs out to 66.5mm (.100 over bore).

Awe man am I going to have to charge my banshee before I can go riding. I would just get a nology coil with hot wires, and run non resistor plugs.

TM Designworks Hangers. The have a rubber bushing to help prevent the pipe bracket from breaking off. That can happen if you use hangers that are solid mounted. http://www.tmdesignworks.com/xcart/customer/product.php?productid=16267&cat=299&page=1 RIS Pipe Clamps. They dont just slip on they scew down tight.