jbooker82

My banshee currently has Avenger standard length a arms with 2in 3 out wheels. The shocks are Works dual rate with remote rez. I am in the process or rehabbing it after a long storage period. The shocks are leaking oil so they will need rebuilt. I purchased new tires with the stock off set of 3 in 2 out so the wheels wont be dished out so bad. I was looking to upgraded the A arms to a +2 width. So my question is long travel worth it on a trail / dune machine that doesn't really get jumped? If I stayed with standard travel I would upgraded the arms and have my current shocks revalved. Where as if I went LT I would also have to get new front shocks.

Does Motor City at least throw a little rattle can spray on the cranks before they send them out?

Or just use nothing and jet accordingly for the air leak. Its a lot handier when you have to split the case halves when you don't have to clean up old sealer.

That would be correct.

Snap on hose. Cheap gauge with adaptors.

Gauges that use one hose and a bunch of different adaptors are not going to be real accurate. The adaptor is hollow and that extra hollow space is added volume to the combustion chamber. Look at how much of a difference a cc or two makes when shopping for dome sizes. The same is said when doing a compression test. Snap on gauges with the proper hose has the Schrader valve in the very tip of the hose so there is no added volume.

Glad someone still has integrity.

Also did you adjust your jetting? Different type of fuel can throw the jetting off as well.

RTV is thick and can cause excess tolerance between the case 1/2s or cylinder head and rocker box / covers on 4 strokes.

It depends on where I am riding. I usually go back and fourth between Motul 710 and 800 / Klotz R50. 710 if I am just putting around the house. 800 for longer rides.

Have any type of tether kill switch? If so how is it hooked up?

I'd rather have a single line to the handle bars. The less crap going to the bars the better.

Pwk28 would have been a great carb for something running pro circuit pipes.

Yea if you don't mind it breaking up and running crapy on the top end.

Yea I ended up using JB weld. Id imagine when guys who do reed case rc engines they use Devcon F and do a bunch of cylinders at a time. The 1lb kit was 50-60 bucks and the cylinder was only $100. I ended up using only about a 1/4 tube of the jb weld.

I'd do porting before carbs. It is the next big power mod after pipes.

That's what I was wondering I have used JB Weld before and its thin enough to flow. I just didn't know if I needed to look for something that is a specialty for fuel resistance or if pretty much all epoxies are fuel resistant.

What do most builders use when they epoxy crank cases? I have an RC car motor / piston port cylinder that I need to fill the intake port in. I am using it on a reed crank case so they normally fill the intake port. The the one I have looks like it was filled with a grey liquid because it was smooth on the surface. It didn't look like it was packed with a putty.

I had a pair of stock ported cylinders re sleeved. It all depends on what you want. The ones I had were a Patriot Racing cylinders. I got them cheap because the stock sleeve had a crack. The cost of the re sleeve job was about the same price as buying a pair of stock cylinders, paying for a port job, then doing the finish bore. The nice thing is you start out with a bran new set of bores. I went with big bore sleeves because you might as well gain a few CC's while your at it. There are different sleeve sizes options. The ones I had were 66-68mm bore. Some guys say that big bore sleeves choke the transfer ports but my cylinders still had aluminum next to the sleeves so it didn't on mine. I could see that happening if you go with the larger sized sleeves. With a 66-68mm bore I just ran blaster pistons, and big bore domes with the blaster piston angle. I had Patriot Racing do the resleeve job. That way when they are opening up the new sleeve ports they are done correctly since they were the ones who did the original port job.

I am at a 152-155 main, 48-45 pilot, CEL middle clip at 2500 ft. Fast dune ported 4mill with CPI's.

Have your cylinders been ported?

It also allows it to bog faster / easier since its lighter.

If they are drag ported Id probably sell them and get something that is dune ported if your doing trails. Nothing like having no low end due to a drag ported cylinder. Then putting a pipe on it that kills the top end to try to get some low and mid range.

I'd probably run them on low and when they are shot make the switch to Vforce 4s. As for which way the lettering goes that really doesn't matter.