jbooker82

I would bet on japan, but there is no way to prove it. You get what you pay for.

I guess I dont need a review. I kind of already know what kind of products china makes. Yea it is going to look nice and shiny when you get it. The test of time is what really counts.

Or tie it in to the green or yellow wire and use the handle bar switch to turn them on and off.

You should use the wires coming out of the the head light switch. When you ground the black wire with white stipe that is what kills the engine. So you have a nice kill switch.

Call them up and ask them. Then when you have problems with it make sure you call THEM up. Customer service is part of the sale. You usually get what you pay for. Why do you want a short rod stroker crank any way? josh

Yea there is a learing curve with dynojet. Most piped 660 raptors run a 160-165 mikuni main. If you run a dynojet kit then you run a 146-148. They just number there jets different. Dynojet numbers theirs acording to the size of the hole. Mikuni numbers theirs according to how many cc's of fuel they flow in 1 minute. You get use to the different numbering system. Just like going from stock mikuni carbs on a shee to keihin. The biggest problem I have found in the raptor world with dynojet, is people dont say wether they are using mikuni or dynojet kit.

Here is the problem with that style of gauge, since it uses the same hose, and different adaptor tips thread on to it. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=70901&view=&hl=compression gauge&fromsearch=1

I had a pair of 66mm-68mm drag ported 4 mill cylinders from him. They ran great, but a drag port wasnt for me. I bought the cylinders dirt cheap and they already were drag ported by him. The cylinders needed resleeved because they were on there last bore and one sleeve had a crack. I sent them to him probably 2 or 3 years ago, and had him resleeve them. I think he just does engine work on the side as a hobby, instead of a full time race shop. I am sure his good name keeps him as buisy as he wants to be. Here is his web page. http://www.patriotracing.net Some builders you just dont hear much about anymore, but you know who they are based off of what kind of machines they have produced. josh

And that is why you hear us say to buy from a reptuable shop vs. finding the absoluet cheapest price on ebay. How many times have you herd of Ebay's great customer service, vs. Site Sponcers customer service. Your probably better off buying another piston out of your own pocket for now. I am sure wiseco wont send you a new one untile they recieve your old one and verify what you say is correct. I dont see the ebay seller bailing you out. If anyting gets done about it, it will be through wiseco them selves.

Dont get a ricky stator or rm stator, or any other cheap tiawan brand. A good used OEM stator is the way to go, or pony up some big bucks and get a new OEM Yamaha stator. I have a bran new spair yamaha stator on hand. I got tired of scewing with ricky stator. Had the same problem as your having. Ran real crusty on the top end.

What do you have for pipes now? I had SST and then went to T5's. The SST's had a little better mid and a little less top end. If your running stock pipes now I can garuntee you will be happy with the SST's. I have to run a sparkarrestor where I ride so I ran the Turb ine Core 2 silencers.

I would ditch Trinity Stage 99 cylinders if they had them. Talk with jeff at fast. A F.A.S.T 4mill with 33 or 35mm PWK's and CPI's is a great build. I had a lightend flywheel and traded it for a stock one. I didn't like how it felt launching. It made it super easy to bog off the line. Josh

I run stock gearing 14-41 with my fast dune ported 4 mill in my sig. Running 20X10X10 9paddle extreemes. Gear it low enough that you can get a good 2nd gear launch.

Mull Engineering "blowit" would be a good guy to talk to. They do more than just shaving the head. They also remachine the combustion chamber.

yea you should deffinatly run them. They help keep the chain lined up and keep it from slapping. That way you dont derail a chain and tear the cases up.

They work good for machines that run a mikuni cv carb. I know they arent the best for banshee's, but machines that run the mikuni cv carbs they work good. I run one in my raptor.

get a dynojet kit. They are spot on.

Cpi's all the way.

I had a set of asr's on my raptor for 2 rides. I took them off. The heims started squeeking and poping. If your not a die hard racer then get a set of arms that are not caster adjustable. If you dont get the caster set right then it will be to easy or hard to steer. Any a arm that has heim joints where they mount to the frame are caster adjustable.

I think a thermostat would make the banshee less sensitive to temp changes. Yea you would have to change jets going from 90deg f to 32deg f. But it might make for a wider temperature range for a given main jet size. The temp at wich the engine is running effects jetting. So if you can make that a constant 180 deg then that should help decrease the sensitivity to temp changes.

Yea you can almost get your money back out of your stock cylinders if you get a Reputable builder's port job, and it is a running top end. That way it is no wait.

Yea build it and dont tell them what you have. I would go with CPI's they have a wicked mid and top end, where the shearers are more top end. I would run shearers with a cub, and CPI's with a dune port. CPI's are a little more forgiving if you bog it.

Drag frames have a crossmember that goes under the cases. They bolt directly to the underside of the case, getting rid of the factory dog bones. I think it is one of those deals where if you don't need a solid mount then don't do it. I guess which would you risk. Vibration breaking the lower case, or throwing a chain and breaking the case. Don't confuse having a low quality improperly adjusted worn out chain and sprockets vs to much hp.

You could build a 4mill stock cylinder. Then if you need to up grade sell your top end and buy a 4mill cub top end.

A fast 4mill is a fun machine to ride. Mine has a super strong mid range hit and revs out really well.