csrmel

there are no sites to download movies. you have to go bittorrent, emule, shareaza etc. nero vision is the software you want to burn them to dvd. that is the most painless software ive ever seen. its almost beautifull in its simplicity.

id like to see any of you make a better pipe. you guys have any idea how hard it is to make custom pipes like that? so the thing is rusty and dirty and probably doesnt perform nearly as good as a set of shearer or cpi, so what you got to admire the effort it took to make them.

also youre banshee its an 87, thats the necest looking older banshee ive ever seen. the colour scheme is it factory? every time i see that pic it makes me want to ditch my blue fenders and grey seat and grab some vintage stuff. you have got to get some more pictures of it, some bigger ones and post them up.

an adjustable timing plate is a good value. i dont know of any other mod that can give you so much power everywhere in the rpm range and yet cost so little. i truely believe that yamaha should of created all banshees right out of the box with 4 degrees of additional timing. it seems that +4 has no disadvantages and only postive benefits. i cant answer youre questions about how far you can go. no one can answer that without knowing youre compression, dome size and other engine mods you have done. youve got to do a teardown of the head and get youre dome size if you dont have anyone who would already know for sure. also its a good idea to do a compression test to see where you are at before changing the timing around. however, i have read that most people are generally safe with 4 degrees advanced over stock.

you could make a rule that each bike has to have a motorcross style number plate )atleast as big as a liscence plate) secured to the back of the bike behind the seat. those plates are pretty cheap. c&r could even buy a few dozen of them and sell them at the drags for people who forgot theirs or didnt know about it. to make temporary numbers, electrical tape works geat on those plates. this would be an easy and cheap way to insure everyone has easy to see numbers and they would all be in the same spot.

so for the stock class, this means no aftermarket heads?

for the majority of riders the 3 biggest areas to make youre banshee faster are pipes, porting and suspension/tyres untill all 3 of these are done, adding little stupid things like power now tin foil intake bullshits and reeds and boost bottles and whgatever else make little to no sence.

normally the cylinders wear at relatively similar rates. somtimes 1 cylinder will wear out quicker than the other (if it ingest dirt, airleak, run lean etc). sounds like the previous owner was a cheap ass and had each cylinder rebuilt only when that individual cylinder needed it. i bet that 1.00mm cylinder wore out quicker than the other for a certain reason, so it was rebuilt twice as often. you must find out why this cylinder was bored bigger. what you might consider is pulling the cylinders, having them borh bored out to be equal and grab some new pistons. check the crank while you are in there for excessive play. when you have the engine back together make sure there are no air leaks, and the jetting is good (even a little rich is ok for testing purposes). once you get the engine back together and have the banshee running good, then it is time to go over the rest of the bike for problems. if the previous owner was cheap enough to get the cylinders bored at different times, chances are good he did some other cheap ass things to the rest of the quad. dont feel like you got a bad deal though. $1500 is a good price for a banshee, even if its not running. so you still got a good deal, just not as good as you originally though.

if c&r needs help for a friday test and tune you guys can count me in. im like 25 miles from c&r so it isnt nothing for me to come down friday saturday and even sunday to help out. the other thing is for a test and tune the rules can be greatly relaxed to make things more streamlined, no classes, no eliminations, just heads up whoever lines up next to each other runs.

more test and tune would be great. actually if an entire day cound be devoted to test and tune i bet you could get just as many people to turn up. like they do for asphalt auto racing. id love a whole day to mess with my machine and hot lap it back into line for another run. other than that i think it went fairly smooth for how new the track is. i know there was some problems but all new tracks have problems. im sure in 6 months things will be running very streamlined. i think the best part was that i didnt meet any assholes. everyone seemed really cool.

http://img88.imageshack.us/my.php?image=coins7ui1.jpg

you can borrow mine if you promise to buy me a new one if you break mine. wait youre in canada right? that might not work.

haha yeah im just cheap shake. also yea it would be nice to trade pdf for a race. the last race we both attend we each only got 3 runs and 1 practice :/ for $30

anyone know where i can upload my screenshot. its a little over 300kb and is a jpeg.

i made a screenshot so we can show all the rest of bansheehq once trhings are fixed.

i notice some guys with different mods to their banshees. tires, intakes, reeds, exhaust, heads, gearing, swinger, weight reduction, etc. is this all allowed for the stock banshee class? what about alcohol? it would be nice if there was a downloadable pdf of the rules for each class.maybe i make a pdf for you guys if i can race for free? but i still need the rules.

i think something is wrong with dave and gary's bikes. i probably weigh a good 100lbs more than those guys and i still had lower et's on oem dunlop tyres, and they have paddles. so whats the deal with protesting? i dont want to be one of those guys who gets mad about losing but one of the banshees in the stock class really did seem to have something going on, maybe some port work. in the future, what happens if someone protests?

back in the day i had a problem like that. i went ahead and poured the concrete slab anyways and before it set, i used my finger to write in "1980". once the slab was done i went to the zoning office with a pic of my slab showing the date. it got me grandfathered in. i told them i was just remodeling. you might try the same thing.

the only people who get rich quick off that stuff are the ones selling it to doupes like you.

email lee and see if he will host them here on bhq. maybe mention to him that he could make the files available only to registered users who have donated. rapidshare/megaupload are ok but most people dont like paying for things.

youre not going to foul plugs at amlost any oil ratio (within reason) if youre jetted correctly. i run 25:1 and in the last year ive only fouled 1 plug, and i think that was a defective plug. my plugs at 25:1 dont look wet with oil when i pull them.

no. motorola phone tools is fo motorola phones only. not lg. wizzy yoe lg phone play mp3s? if so, you can upload thiznem ta yoe phone n just scroll through yoe menu untill you git ta tha mp3, click "set as ring tone". or sum-m sum-m tot hat effect. yoe going ta probably hizzle ta do some google searchn fo yoe phone ta see wizzy brotha usa have done wit it fo real.

you guys think there would be any benefit to removing the choke assembly from a stock carb, cleaning it, then applying a bit of grease to it before reinstalling as a preventitive maintence way to prevent this from happening? curious...

99 as everyone else said, you can shim the pipes with flat washers between the pipe mounts and the frame. also put a couple washers under the gastank to raise it up a little. do you have any idea if youre frame is tweeked a bit? id be willing to bet most of the pipe fitment problems people have are due to slightly tweeked frames.

if youre air filter was letting dirt by as you mentioned then that would wear the top end out quick. but nobody ever fucked up a ring like that because of a leaking air filter. that looks like a oil issue (or lack of oil issue) causing a partial seize. for sure the ring is seized, hell its pinched between layers of aluminum. sence the top end is shot, there are reasonable chances that the bottom end isnt too good either. all that piston, ring and cylinder matereal must go somwhere, most of it gets blown out the exhaust but some makes it way into the crankcase where its got a good chance of scoring some crank or rod bearings before it gets shot out of the tranfers into the combustion chamber and out the exhaust. not only that but ALL of that dirty unfiltered air that wore out youre top end had to pass through the crankcase and crankshaft before it even touches the piston rings and cylinders so id bet theres atleast some crank damage. maybe its not too bad, but you need to check it and determine if you need crank work before putting the engine back together. i would remove the gastank, flip the banshee upside down and FLUSH the crankcase/crankshaft area out really good with some brake cleaner followed up by wd40. put a clean white rag under the rods as you are squirting brake fluid around so you can see if any metallic shavings or flakes run out. check the reeds closely as well. dirt can act like a sandblasting medium on the reeds and erode them over time. also now is the time to rebuild the carbs. no doubt theres atleast some dirt up in the carb barrels and probably down in the jetting circuits as well.