KlotzBanshee

If you read some posts and watch what is said in the the shoutbox, it's fairly easy to spot a douche bag when you see one. If they can't talk to people like an adult, you definitly don't want to buy shit from them.

Try a Yamaha dealership or anyone that carries OEM Yamaha parts.

I'm at 165 with 19s and run 50/50 per Jeff at FAST

Good to hear. What did you end up getting?

Ah, OK. Never done mine, but it's on the list of things to do this summer.

The real bitch was getting the carrier and axel apart. Mine is a 99 and it had never been done. Rusty splines and siezed bearings...It took a ten ton press to get that fucker out! But I got it!

Ha that’s funny, I'm doing this tomorrow. I just got done replacing the carrier bearings, spacer, and seals today. I just need to torque everything down. But I have all the right tools for the job. Go buy the wrenches and a torque wrench if ya can and save yourself the headache, they weren’t that expensive.

You're doing the swingarm pivot bearings right? Or the axel carrier bearings?

So did the bus driver let you drive? Or did you just steal a bus? jus playin

I'm using the Rox 1-1/8"(or 1-1/4" don't remember) block riser with my Pro Tapers and stock stem. So far I really like it, the little bit of rise makes a big difference. Their pivoting risers are nice, but you'll need to get longer cables and front brake hose to make them work...Not to mention the cost difference.

Nice lookin Chevys man

PM Sent also.

If a bearing makes noise or binds at all...replace it now while you have it apart. I replaced to actuator arm bearing when I did mine, it was not hard to do with the cases split. Just CAREFULLY tap it out from the underside with a punch or screw driver and press the new one in with a similar size socket. You just need to keep from scaring the machined surface with whatever you use to tap it out. You can get the bearings from any Yamaha dealer or anyone who carries OEM Yamaha parts. #2 Gas is fine, but I'd be careful with the Acetone. Simple Green, Carb cleaner, and a Tooth brush go a long way. And don't skimp on the elbow grease. lol #3 If you think a bearing doesn't feel smooth and quiet when you turn it...Replace it. They can be a little pricey, but not nearly as bad as what a bearing failure can cost. #4 No need to replace the studs unless they're bad and absolutely need to be replaced. New studs are nice, but you can run into more problems if you break one off or strip some threads. Good Luck, and take your time. There is no such thing as too clean, I treat it like heart surgery if you know what I mean. Welcome to the BHQ! -Ryan

X2 If you need a billet basket and don't want to get raped for one...like a Hinson...buy a Magnum

Just Great! I'm about to do the same thing on my 99. The carrier bearings are a little sloppy. I bought all the parts now I just need to do the job. I have been putting it off because I'm worried it's gonna be a major PIA. I was hoping to avoid using a press...? Good Luck, let us know how it goes.

The stock size is M10 - 1.25 Fine Thread, so like bigblock said go up to a M12 - 1.25 Fine (10.8 tap drill size) if you plan on just re-tapping. If you want a more permanent fix then you need to add something with a few more threads like BigRed said. I did the left rear on mine...click the link if you want to see how I did it. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=138007&st=0&p=1191560&fromsearch=1entry1191560

Sucks about the stang Dan, but I'm glad you're OK. I put my 94 GT in a tree at about 50mph back in 98 and walked away. Thankfully Mustangs are known for holding up well in crashes. Get well soon

I still feel its water getting through the carbs somehow, not through the filter. I had a very similar issue a few years ago and found that water was getting past the carb caps and/or running down the throttle cables and into the top of the carbs (boots were cracked and dry rotting at the time). I replaced the caps and put new rubber boots on the cables where they meet the sync adjusters and it never happened again. *And as for the guys who say go to Uni's and don't look back...I ran dual stage Uni's for years. And while I think they do a little better job filtering out dirt, when I put on a set of K&N pods it was like I pulled a cork out of my motor. I now use K&N's and don't look back. I just try to avoid the sloppy stuff when ridding. To me it's a worth while trade off for the increased flow of the K&N's. Good luck Muggzy. Hope you get it figured out soon. Keep us updated.

I play alot of Black Ops on 360 and find it really just depends on the room you get into. If I join a room where I'm getting my ass kicked, I'll just leave when the games over and find a new room. It usually doesn't take long to find a good room I can beast in. But I have played Zombies on both PS3 and Xbox. And for some reason they're more generous with the Max Ammo, Insta-kill, and double-points Perks on the PS3 Vs. the xbox. IDK why

Well I looked it up in some old DirtWheels mags I had and I was mistaken. The Dial-a-jet is different, and made by Thunder Racing Products not PC Racing...Sorry I got the two confused My bad.

That's exactly what I was thinking of...but I swear they used to call it Dial-a-jet in their advertisements in DirtWheels. I guess I'll have to dig up some old DW mags. ...Never used one either way. But Hell, for 20 bucks give it a shot and let us know how it works out.

I've never seen one from Work Connection, but PC Racing makes the “Dial-a-Jet” set up like that. It’s supposed to help when your jetting isn't spot on for the riding conditions. I've heard of guys using it when ascending or descending from high altitude mountain climbs like Pikes Peek.

Unless they fixed the hill in the last year and a half, I might skip that trip if I was you. The hill was sooo whooped out last time I went, it sucked. There's always the trails I guess.

They look like they would hit something if you bottomed out the rear suspension.