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letsgetthisdone

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Everything posted by letsgetthisdone

  1. I've never ridden the Janssen setup so i can't give you input on that. But, my standard travel +2+1 arms with TCS shocks work awesome. I'm sure you would have no problem with parts quality with janssen. But as far as bumpsteer goes, i have no idea. Don't forget to do something about the rearend too, I would suggest an elka rear shock ($900), or an elka LT shock and linkage it ($1500 on ebay). Don't waste the money on a reworked stocker, they get hot and then fade very quickly if you ride them hard.
  2. As for abuse....heim joints will put up with a whole fuckin lot of it. And on the size of the arms, if you ride in the woods, get +2+1, if you ride open trails and dunes where the "trail" never gets narrow, get +3+1.
  3. get a dune port. I like mine a lot in the desert. Bu if you want it absolutely dead reliable, i'd leave it stock internally, the more high strung you make the motor, the more sensitive its gonna be to elevation and temp changes.
  4. My redone rear stocker fades after about 45 minutes of spirited desret riding, and if i'm riding at the limit it fades in 20-30 minutes, biggest waste of $350 IMO. That and I have to have it recharged (nitrogen) every 6 months. And that linkage kit isn't $1700+, its $1500 buy it now on ebay and the bid starts at $1250. If you don't have that much cash, spend the extra $500 and at least get the standard travel rear elka.
  5. If you're talkin about the vent hose that is below the waterpump housing you need to keep because it is submerged in oil. :thumbsup:
  6. WOW. He is tryin to help by saying he has a similar setup and what jetting he is runnin and you come off with that.
  7. It has a boost bottle AND its chrome.....duh. :yelrotflmao:
  8. how much is your setup worth. I'll trade my trinity 35mm single carb kit. Might need some cash from you though, i have no idea what your stuff is worth.
  9. T5's are better on built motor's. If you ride mostly dunes, CPI's would work well too. If you're looking for bottom-end power some PT mids would be best.
  10. You're on a tight budget, but how much money have you spent on used stuff that lasted 2 months. Buy a new wiseco piston kit, have the cylinders bored to match (and make sure the ports get chamfered), and if the crank is bad, buy a new one. A new crank will last at least 5-6 top-ends (prolly more) and a fresh (brand new) top end should last at least a year of consistent riding (2-3 times a month). EDIT: A wise man once said, "you can go broke saving money." :thumbsup:
  11. OK, Pual Turner Mids (bottom end pipes), a wood port, 4 mil stroker (and the various bits it requires), cool head, single 35mm carb, and as much compression as the gas you are willing to buy can handle. This will pretty much solve the problem, but then you will lack top-end power. If you let off the gas going up hill on a shee it is goin to fall of the pipe. You could try modulating the clutch and throttle instead of just droppin the clutch and floorin it, but that'll smoke every clutch you put in in about 6 months. You could also try passing the 450's in the open sections of trails, then you don't have to worry about hittin 'em in the tighter sections. Its not a jetting issue IMO, it is just falling off the pipe.
  12. its sounds to me that you aren't keeping it in the powerband
  13. I would run your stock axle. My shee has +2+1 arms with the stock axle and it is extremely difficult to ride around in circles on two wheels. My buddies 400ex has +2+1arms and a +4 (overall) axle and you can still get it up on two wheels way easier then my shee. That, and having the rear a couple inches narower then the front helps out the handling.
  14. the two brothers pipe is around 92db, you can also 96db version of the pro-circiut, and FMF has a couple of different quite pipes.
  15. clamp-on filters(dry riding conditions) or pro-design pro-flow kit and ditch the airbox lid (wet riding conditions). As far as compression and timing, what is your elevation and what kind of fuel are you willing to buy (race or pump fuel)?
  16. Exactly what he said. Remove the carrier from the swinger and put that bitch in a 12 ton hydraulic press, it'll come out.
  17. I wuld check your compression, you may not need to be running race gas in that motor.
  18. I've heard the electrex's are really shitty, they tend to short out and then kill your CDI. I haven't had any problems with 200watt ricky stator.
  19. I munched a UM swinger plate in less than two months, and sevaral other people i know. The PRM lasted until i hit a really nasty embedded rock...it crushed the linkage box to where it rubs on the linkage, i just have to cut that part out and it'll work fine. IMO go with PRM.
  20. yep, wiseco every time for me too. :thumbsup:
  21. You're gonna waste those things in less than a month on your shee.
  22. If you're that serious about getting bottom end power, go get a four stroke. :shrug:
  23. If you can weld aluminum, run a clamp-on filter and fabricate a box to go around it :shrug:
  24. SWEET, now i don't have to buy new ones, thanx man. :thumbsup:
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