Snopczynski

So where are we at with this?

Bra

Cascade Alba DM Modquad RM Atv Patriot

I run them on a dune bike too......My point is, you could focus on what the pipes do by keeping a low exhaust duration, and using some smaller carbs as well. Daj ought to be able to provide insight on this extra clutch pack setup. Its a common drag racing modification.

The stock axle is steel, you can't polish it without clear coating it. Most aftermarket axles are steel unless its a aluminum drag axle.

I just did a google search and you can get brand new pro circuit pipes and silencers for $488.00 on the web.

Ahhhh, the misguided youth of today. I would personally talk to cascade innovations about a clutch and some mid-top pipes.

Dan is good, he has been teching me motors. He lives about a mile from me.

What pipes does cameron recommend running now?

Yeah, he has not been getting a good rep around here.

When you put the clutch hub on, make sure its sitting flat on the clutch packs. If there is a gap, take it off and rotate one hole to make it flat.

If its a drag port, I would get different pipes first.

Your going two different ways here. You have pro-circuit pipes (low-mid pipe), with vf3's (mid-top cage), and you want to put 34mm or 35mm carbs on it (mid-top). What your port durations? They sound like they are around 192-196 degrees if your compression is that low with 18cc domes. Elevation as well?

Is it ported?

Check it, may have more items on in a few days as well. Ebay Link

FALSE- Pro circuits redline at about 8,750 rpm, thats lower than PTR Mids, and 50rpm higher than the Dynoport 2 into 1 pipe.

the pj is a flat side with round side edges, the pwk is a D slide.

Reed spacers do make a difference for the good on larger bore, higher cc 2-stroke motors. Stock and even in some cases mini strokers, its not a high gain.

That Guy owes one of my customers $100 and has owed him for about a year now. I see the C&M guy every morning at the gas station when I stop to get an energy drink. The Dude even looks shady.

Cameron at Redline for my recommendation. I ride with him and I am around alot of his drag bikes, he is good. Another good one not mentioned is Ronnie Saner.

I have ridden a bike with gnarleys and different mods than the bikes with pro circuits on them. I have only dyno tested the pro circuits. I use pro circuits, and we run them on about 5 or 6 bikes in our group. Only other low-mid pipe anyone else is using right now is the ptr mids. We did dyno that motor with pro circuits on it, and it made more torque and hp than the ptr mids did, and it had a broader curve. Guy still runs them anyway though.

What happens if you unplug the regulator and rev the engine up, not just letting it idle? If its not bad bulbs, and the regulator is ok, and there is no shorts, its more than likely a stator issue. What about bad or corroded connections?

orange wire goes on the plus, and black goes on the neg.

From what you describe it sounds like it seized, so heat would cause that. Usually if they get hot, they seize up, and then cool off and loosen up. FOLKS when you say what clip position your needles on, we also usually should know what size needle it is. You always give us main, and pilot size, lets finish it off with the needle size.

Probably short to ground. What wattage are the headlight bulbs? Have the bulbs, or any wiring recently been changed or messed with before this happened?