Snopczynski

Ours doesn't have those special wires.

You would have to tell me the reed tension before I would recommend any of them. I recommend a low or mid tension carbon fiber petal on a stock reed cage.

I bought a 100 degree cornwell pencil grinder for $235.00 about a year ago.

What type of riding do you do with the bike, and what do you want the power delivery to be like?

You wouldn't even have to change anything to get it to put down 75 hp on the crank dyno. Most of the dynojets I have seen, have very different correction factors from crank dynos. The rear wheel dyno is trying to project crank hp through a formulated program. Best way to actually check it is to measure it at the crank (more accurate). Did you guys adjust timing or mess with any of that stuff while you had it on. I know how that spark plug thing goes, I was getting a weird miss, and ended up by chance pulling mine off and testing it with the meter. Found out it was bad, and it was all good again after that.

No, you dont run the stuffers in the vf3 cages on a 2 into 1 intake. You actually have to take a dremel and match port the intake to the reedcage, and grind a buch off the reedcage stuffers. You have to do this to match them up right to the billet intake. Using the vf3 with a 2 into 1 intake is like pulling in two different directions. mid-top reedcage with a low-mid carb setup. Your better off with stock cages and aftermarket reed petals like a low or mid tension carbon tech setup.

crescent wrench with a cheater pipe on the flat parts of the puller. Then use a long breaker bar to tighten the center and bust the flywheel loose.

Had my current set 3 years. We see some asphalt and gravel going in and out of the parking lots at the oregon dunes. My paddles are still like new, and they are even super lights.

You know, you cant really compare this dyno to other different dyno results. I know Cameron really builds some wicked stuff. I wouldn't be suprised if this motor puts down at least 75hp on the crank dyno I use. We dyno tested a JSD 4 mill with stock cylinders, pt mids, and a single 35mm pwk carb. It came out at 78 hp. So if anyone is not impressed, keep in mind, you have to compare a different motor that was ran on the same dyno. With also near the same ambient running conditions to accurately compare results.

It sounds like it may be the pipes then. Camerons port jobs are pretty nice, so I dont think it would be an inherent issue with that. Do you know what your compression is? That dip would more than likely make the bike rev pretty smooth to about 8k rpm, then the acceleration would all of the sudden pickup and be a little faster for about the last 800 rpms.

How much are the 450 shocks?

Yup, and they are way funner to ride than a 4 poke.

Everything looks real good except for the torque backup. Lets try to figure out how we may be able to eliminate it. Can you list out every single mod to the bike that you have done? Do you know anything about the porting like durations, etc......... Torque line being flat is good, but the dip between 8k-9k rpm would be cooler if it was at least flat as well. Everyone noted the max rpm on the T5's right? So we can stop recommending them as a trail pipe now. I wasn't expecting to see that dip in hp between 8k-9k rpm with the T5's on it either.

62 hours seems like a lot of time on the trans oil. Did you ever think about changing it and seeing if anything improved with your problem. I run a better oil than gear saver, and I change mine every 12-16 hours of riding time.

Dyna makes a coil kit (bolts in place of the stock coil), I have it and the dyna cdi. Im confused about the nology plug wire length thing? We have one on the drag bike, and there are no capacitors in the plug wires. They are about as long as the stock plug wires.

So this is another one? What was the one I saw pics of a few days ago?

That used to happen to me when i ran ebc and barnett clutches. I shattered two different sets of clutch packs racing at sandfest back in the 90's. I switched over to a cascade heavy duty clutch, and have never had an issue since.

I think that premix pictured is for 2 stroke outboards. I wouldn't run it in a banshee. I actually would not use either one. I am a formulated 2 stroke oil fan. Whether it be cylinders or transmission.

How may hours are on this oil change then?

Is that within spec?

Says who? If thats the case, then a gas motor is the wrong type of motor for low rpm power, we should all be running diesels.

That oil should work ok. You may have a misadjusted shift shaft fork, or a slightly bent shift shaft. I think either way the cover may need to come off. How often do you change the oil?

What oil and weight are you using?

Pro circuits dont come with chrome, they come nickel coated. Were these chromed after market? Pro circuit is a low-mid pipe. The dmc's and fmf fatties are a mid-top pipe. If you run a set of fmf pipes you want the gnarleys. I would personally stick with the pc's and have them ceramic coated or re-nickled. PC's actually have a lower redline rpm than fatties and dmc's. They even have a lower redline rpm than a dynoport 2 into 1 pipe.

Whats your compression at with the port job and those 20cc domes? Did Kevin recommend the T6's? Im thinking more compression and different pipes.