Snopczynski

Is this a joke?????? Eat= Good! Shit= Good! N= SO So, we can let it slide! Dye= Not as in DIE!

Care to provide more info on the pipes? FMF Makes 4 or 5 Gold series pipes. If you used the search, your going to get the same answers from just about everyone in this post, that they left in the other posts.

I dont even need 3 pairs of hid lights on my rhino, what could you possibly need that much light for?

oh, well good post!

T5's are not better all around, they are better mid-top. The Gnarley is a low-mid pipe, therefore it will make more power down low than a T5.

Hey, what ever happened to the 35mm carb deal with NC?

Which ones? Mid or High rev?

You damn kids need to learn how to use the search. Search result

Always ground the rectifier ground to chassis, and the battery. The frame needs to be well grounded to the negative circuit. Then run reg/rectifier to the bttery, and run the power feed for the switch to the battery as well. Mr16's draw about 2.5 amps each after the 12 amp startup.

With a batery there is no need for such a high output stator with dual lighting circuits. You could rectify one circuit, and run a set of halogens off the other circuit.

You are right.

For a trail port I would use Dave Roberts at ILR Performance. He is the torque King.

Most of the guys I know that have them only use them on 4-strokes. They dont like the thought of the 2 stroke sauce getting in them. Any builder who is good with a dyno, will be able to identify if your running lean just by watching the numbers on the warmup runs. Dave watches stuff like water temp as well on the crank dyno.

We dont do that on either of the dynos we use. We jet for max hp and torque.

The pro circuits will make more low end power than the 2 into 1 exhaust.

Its 4 AH, not 100 ah. AH100 is a model it fits.

Well, the reeds and flow from the carbs wont be used to their full potential with those pipes.

You take the second power wire and run it to the light switch, and to the regulator once its mounted and grounded.

With T6's and port on your motor, I would want the squish around .045", .035" is for a low rpm trail motor.

It looks like its made from a progresso soup can.

What exactly are you guys looking for, and what is the author of this post looking for everyone to say? Portwork cannot be determined by just looking at the cylinders. There are port heights and widths that need to be measured to tell what someone did. All that looks like right now is that someone went in and ground on the intakes and the transfers, then knifed the intake bridge.

What type of riding do you do?

Doing that test made me decide to sell my single carb setup and go with dual carbs instead. So I dont know how it made you decide to do the opposite? The gains are really more for trail riders who have to jump logs and go up steep hills with no take off speed. Mx or wide open ttrails wise, I think the duals would be better.

If your gonna run the single carb, then yes the 35mm is what would probably work the best.