Snopczynski

I had a +4 shear on my banshee and my rhino.

22x11x8

I run 13/46 at the sand dunes. What size tires?

Its the import one.

I think all the years are ok on the rear one.

its +2" wider, and forward 1" on both arms.

Coolant doesn't flow through the base gaskets on a banshee. There are rubber plugs in the bottom of the cylinders that block the coolant passages. Plus there is no where for the coolant to go into the case. You can get the caps from summit racing or autozone.

sudco or carbparts.com

Dont grind the pipe, I cant believe you said that. You gotta muscle it on there. I used a pry bar on mine and very gently spread the headpipe apart as someone pushed it on the flanges. They dont fit all the way on when they are brand new. They go on a little more after they have been ran.

PWK 35mm= 195 main, eej or eek needle, clip 2nd notch down from the top, 42 pilot jet, air screw 1.5 turns out from all the way in.

13/44 or 13/45.

I run 13/46 and love it.

Unless you have physically checked the temperature of the coolant, I would not be convinced its overheating. My bike pushes coolant out sometimes at 180 degrees. So get yourself a temp gauge cap and check it again to make sure your not chasing your tail.

Battery Link Yeah I can make one, pm me. Mine ended up having an integrated coolant bottle bracket also.

There is more than one slide available for the tm28. The biggest thing is I wont be able to find out which slide you need or which nozzle. This is probably what your problem is. So to get that stuff fixed, you got to ship the carbs over. Dave did alot of dyno testing on these carbs and wont let the cat out of the bag on those components. Float level and the needle/seat size are also something he checks for. I have run two sets of tm28's that he setup, and just had another set done for a guy. They work pretty damn good.

Your gonna want to run a battery to run a fan. Therefore you should float the ground. I use a reg/rect off of a snowmobile. Its a little more durable, has less loss on the conversion, and they aren't offered by Ricky Stator so thats a plus. I personally dont like Ricky's tympanium reg/rec compared to a sled unit. How much compression, and what octane fuel? How do you mix the coolant? Do you have an aftermarket radiator, and coolhead also? What about the waterpump impeller, have you checked it to make sure the fins have not broken off or been ground down?

I didn't mind the rs plate, but know I run a stock plate and program my cdi for the timing advance. When I put the flywheel back on, I usually heat the hub a bit with the torch then slide it on. Thats a little trick I learned from Dan at Patriot Racing.

You can send them up here to me and I can have Dave go through them and set them up for you. PM ME.

This is the finished wiring under the seat for the battery.

What else is done to the bike? Stock Carbs?

I dont know what slide cutout you have to have. I think I have the rest of the specs written down somewhere. I run the same carbs and they have to be setup a certain way to work right. If you got em, then run em. It may cost some money for the right needles, mains, pilots, slide cutouts, needle/seat, and nozzles though. I just had Dyno Dave do a set for me and it cost about $100 for the right parts.

where is the gauge located and what type of gauge is it? What temps are you considering hot?

Are you sure the left pipe is on the left side and vice versa? Got a pic of the issue?

How do you know it runs hot?

why not do pipes first? Its the best bang for the buck mod.