Snopczynski

Got it on Ebay. Keep checking for more stuff in next few days. Snopczynski Racing Ebay Link

Yeah, there was nothing wrong with mine. I messed around with it for 2 years and swapped/ adjusted about every combo you could think of with it. Had it on the dyno numerous times also. I have ran them with twin carbs, I ride everything from really tight sand trails/holes, to open dunes, and some play drag racing.

I like the trail techs, they look better, are brighter, and easier to change bulbs in.

What are you truing to flush out or fix?

there is a rubber gasket in the trailtechs now to keep sand out. Basically, the whole bulb is sealed, so you shouldn't get sand behind the glass.

I have a known good used one. PM Me for a price.

They dont come on the throttle fast enough. I ran a dynoport 2 into 1 pipe for 2 years. There is one on my bike in the picture on my sig. They dont perform like that.

If that was the case it would get worse the higher the gear he used.

Did you change anything electrically while it was apart, like this kill switch setup? The handlebar kill switches have problems where the contact wall inside breaks and the switch does not make contact anymore. Most of the time thats why they quit working.

Thats what I thought when I looked at that dyno chart. I personally like those pipes alot and I would keep those if I were you. When they made the T5, they copied that pipe. I still think the fmf has a better midrange hit though.

fmf gnarly, ptr mids, pro circuits, and the old fmf torque pipes.

You can use it to get jetting close, but does the dyno have a brake? If not, then your basically only going to be able to set the main jet. Typically when I do a dyno session I am swapping out parts and doing fine tunning with timing, and other small items.

I guess you guys regularly dont read my entire posts. Like the part where I said we found a pipe that beat it on the dyno, and I have ridden the bike with both pipes. I run pro circuits now, they hands down hand the 2 into 1 pipe its own ass. What exactly with all the knowledge I have would make you think I would solely recommend something based on dyno results? How did you even misconstrue what I said? As far as liking the 2 into 1 pipe, I would run it if I raced motorcross.

Check the pickup coil gap for the flywheel. There is a ground on the rear end at the voltage regulator. is the kill switch and key switch both still on it?

dynoport, I got lots of dyno sheets that say otherwise. We ran that pipe at stock duration, and ported by dynoport at 185 on the exhaust. The pro circuits kicked the pants off the dynoport setup. That was torque and hp on the dyno, and riding the bike in the holes.

which fmf pipes, they made 5 different pipes for the banshee!

I'm confused, how would you be going back to stock? I though the key here was too make a strong trail bike? So if you do the 4 mill, then what about these parts that are holding the bike back? I thought your little deal said you had wiseco pistons and a welded crank? How is that not having good internals?

that's because the 2 into 1 pipe is not a good trail pipe. It does not make good torque, about the only impressive thing it does is maintain peak rpm once you bring it up on the pipe.

what did you do with the tailight power wire?

Once you do that, then you have a bunch of parts to bolt onto the 4 mill that are NOT low-mid power making parts. Not to mention the single carb will be holding it back about 4-5 hp on the top end.

I would do fmf gnarlys with powercore II silencers.

Check from your headlight ground to the motor for resistance. Check from the headlight positive wire to the stator yellow, and then the voltage regulator lead for resistance. You gotta check with thew switch on. Was it doing it on high and low beam settings? Does the tailight blink or go out also?

Do you have a digital multi meter with an ohm checking function?

You can get way more power out of it just by changing some of those parts out. Ditch the 2 into 1, the reed spacers, the boyseen reeds, the stock head, and the dmc exhaust. Run twin 28mm flatslides, stock reed cages with carbon tech reeds, get a pro design head and run 175-185 psi compression, get some pro circuits, and have some port work done. Also run curve 3 on the dyna ignition for the best power gains across the board. I programmed 4 degrees of advance in my FS to curve 3, and set my timing plate to zero.

They work pretty good, they are bright, and typically seem to hold up well?