Snopczynski

I lost all interest in looking around on that site and being a user on it. Sorry

Why did you buy them if you dont know how they run? I want to know how you think they will be before I tell you. Is anything done to your bike?

Call rich at dynoport and ask, other than that just use same jetting specs as you would for a set of fmf fatty pipes.

Make sure you pick a low end pipe, thats what you said you want (trails). There is a bunch of pipes being mentioned here that are not low-mid end pipes.

call cascade and have them warrantied out.

Run the FMF Gnarly or the Pro circuits.

You put that your gonna run 22cc domes though, your compression wont be 165-170 with 22cc domes.

The laws of wiring say its a no no to push 200w down the gauge size wiring on the stock headlight switch, so thats why you dont hook up the regulator after the switch. It also creates more resistance in the circuit the longer it is. Doing full bridge rectification and making as much juice as possible requires running both ends of the stator into a full wave regulator/rectifier to be converted to dc. I often times have seen you recommend a diode, which is only a half wave dc circuit.

floating the wire on a stock plate is a little harder. You have to find it, then dremel the epoxy off and solder it. The battery I would use is in my dc conversion thread. Battery Link DC Conversion Link

What happened to the Pro Circuits?

agreed, also agree with the pancake bearing adjuster.

I have a dc conversion with a stock stator. I run 70 watt halogens off it right now and underglow leds. It charges at just off idle with everything on. It breaks even and may lose a bit of voltage at idle. 2 35w hids will be just fine with the right battery.

Are you competing in flat track, or just do it sometimes? That will make a difference in what I recommend.

If kevin raised the exaust port at all the compression is going to be less than stock with 22cc domes. If heleft it, your going to have stock compression. No need for race gas at 125psi. I would definitely run way more compression in a trail bike than what your running. I recommend at least 165 psi. Jetting for the setup you listed would be 190 main, dek needle, clip in middle, 42 pilot jet, af screw 1.5 turns out. Thats a starting point.

I have one, pm me.

Is there any slack in the lever when let go? Just when the lever tensions does the case arrows line up? Did you take the o-rings out of the clutch pack? Is the end hub plate sitting flat on the end clutch pack when in installed?

I would put the old BR8ES in it if it was mine.

I use a dyna, it bolts right into the stock spot. No problems with the nology units either.

whats the symptom?

all banshee exhaust holes are 8mm x 1.25 threads.

Pyro temps in the pipes are 1250 degrees when jetted correctly. I cant check the outside, my pipes are ceramic coated.

Sounds like way to big of a needle to me. There are some people who run that needle on a 2 into 1 setup.

You running race gas in that?

To run lower exhaust durations or a "Trail Port" you need to resleeve that cylinder and lower the porting. So unless they did that, it hasn't been done. If you want to know, just call them up and tell them your interested in buying one with a trail port job and ask them what they do or how they do a trail port on them. I cant believe you read all this and still went and bought the ptr setup, but oh well. Cascade chrome is nice, sent some pro circuits and cascade csfx stinger tubes down to them yesterday to get chromed. Did you buy csfx silencers with those pipes?

One of these.