Snopczynski

Aren't they stock pipes?

Thats why you pay attention, gather info, and give an educated answer. I noticed it was a 4mm long rod motor, to be done right it would need the port floors moved down 2mm. If your in there doing that, it was more than likely ported at the same time. Since it is a 4mm long rod all the things like what pistons he used, spacer plate, machined domes, base gasket thickness, and crank manufacturer can ultimately effect final compression and squish. Also, moving the port in increments of thousands or decimals of a millimeter will change compression. It doesn't just change if you move it a whole millimeter.

Sweet, I am a 4 star asshole.

The thing is porting will change compression numbers hugely. 150 psi is not really close to where I would assume they would be, unless he is running too much squish clearance and has a 1mm or so higher exhaust port. Hence, I need to know and dont like to make assumptions. There are too many times when people on here just want to shoot something off and dont really worry about what the real answer could be or should be. You have to ask questions, get facts, and then formulate an answer based on that. In example: Sunday I am chilling on the couch watching some tv. The neighbor guys come over and say the little kia sephia commuter car one of them owns broke down. The clutch apparently doesn't disengage and allow you to shift gears. I go through everything and tell them it sounds like the clutch slave cylinder or the clutch master cylinder went out. However, I ask some questions and tell them to see if there is anything that looks like shredded fiberglass in the trans bell housing. They come back and say yeah. I say ok, well your clutch disc is probably toast also. So the one guy takes the car in and has the repair shop put a clutch master, and a clutch slave cylinder on it. Never tells them the clutch is bad, or what I told him. They do the repairs at the tune of $300 and give him the car back, car drives like shit and will now pop out of gear and do crazy lurching stuff while it is running down the road. The moral of the story is, ask questions, get the right answers, listen to them, and life is then cheaper and easier. So do the compression test right, ask your builder some questions, and check your squish.

There is no way we can tell you what your compression should on those domes without knowing what pistons, base gaskets, exh. port duration and machine work has been done to the head. The right way to check compression is run the bike and get it warm. Pull both plugs and hook up the tester. Kick over the bike 10-15 times as fast as you can with the throttle wide open and the kill switch to off. The result is your compression reading. You also need to check squish. I run 18cc domes at 184 psi compression. However a standard exhaust port duration 350 will make almost 200 psi with 18cc domes. Please do a search next time, this topic has been covered more times than I have taken a shit in my life.

If I knew what I would have been missing from the pro circuits, I would have ran them in the first place. I would not run a dynoport unless I was motocross racing only.

yes. There are alot of other things that have to be right in the tm28 for it to work right though.

What do you mean by pilot jet sizes are different in the flats?

The main jets are the same. The 200-240 size seems way too small to me. I run between a 380-410 main jet.

You can run the plate and dyna. I set mine at zero and program the advance into the dyna. If your riding trails and trying to make lots of power everywhere, curve 3 should do better than curve 1.

You can try something like this. They do a wireless setup. http://www.swannsecurity.com/s/products/view/?product=407

Its been on here before. There was a guy asking about what to do if your tall and own a banshee. This bike has a 2" taller frame cause he is 6' 5" 275 lbs.

Here they are on the bike.

I vote for the Nylon TM design one. The hylon ones will absorb impact and not rip the mounting screws up or mangle anything like the billet ones will.

The 16 psi cap for the banshee is as follows. #2473R Import thermocap 16 psi - red #2473B Import thermocap 16 psi - blue #2473S Import thermocap 16 psi - silver If you search the number on summit racing, they do come up.

I rode one in the sand. It was a terd. I wouldn't buy one because of the seat stiffness alone.

Dual 28mm flatslides, ditch the vf3's and run carbon tech mid reeds on stock cages. Run curve 3 on the dyna. Is your timing advanced at all?

Turn around was about 2.5 weeks.

Well pretty much none of thats right, I know that much.

Your gonna have to wait till I change my mains and needle settings this week.

Do you have any idea where your exhaust port duration is at?

They are going on a dune bike.

I have a magura for sale that I picked up from a guy. Most of the stuff I have seen has a real easy pull and they seem to work well.

I made this battery box with coolant bottle bracket. I made these wakeboard tower speakers. I made this fiberglass sub box for my truck. I made the light bar, bumpers, leg minders, and top on this. I got lots more.

Go to walmart and get one of these. Check back here and I will tell you what to do. They cost less than $30.00