Snopczynski

If you didn't want to lose bottom end, I would have kept The gold series pipes on it.I would run 28mm flat slides on it.

Why do you need a new one?

Trinity or their manufacturer is going to be the only one who offer it. You can try UPP or K&L but you probably wont find one.

you can bend the lever down a little and loosen the carb then tilt it up some. If that dont work, buy some 1/2" reed spacers off of ebay for it.

head, timing plate, lightened flywheel, and a new rear fender.

Call the company who makes it and order another one.

1. I didn't pay money to have it done. Dave is a friend of mine. I ordered the carbs brand new through him, and he ordered them with the right stuff based on what he has dyno tested with the setup. I actually paid less for the carbs brand new with all the stuff than you probably paid for your carbs without the right stuff. 2. This is what you find when you search "Fuel Valve" on google. Which is what you called it. Morons Link This is what you find on Google when you search "Needle Seat" on Google. Snopczynski smart Link Now you tell me who is using the wrong terminology my 30 post newbie friend! 3. You asked for help and then second guessed my answers based on what you think is right and not based on fact. That tells me there is no helping you because you think your smarter. Everything thats been put into my carbs has been proven to make a difference on a crank dyno. They also kick ass for everything I ride from sand trails, and holes, to some recreational drag racing on my seat of the pants dyno. I do a lot of tuning on the dunes and on the dyno with different parts all the time. 4. Dyno Dave is not a yahoo, he is a boeing QC engineer that worked on the stealth project. There is more smarts in his long ago circumsized penis foreskin than in your whole body. So next time you feel like being a douche, you just keep it all inside. Keep it all inside, a nice link for you!

We gave them the specs and had them made. They have it stored in their computer database.

I would special order carbon tech mid reeds.

Whats done to the bike and what type of riding do you do?

What carb is that vito's needle made for, not the stockers I hope? The needle seat size does matter, it keeps fuel flowing correctly into the bowl, and helps with sloshing. Yes there are different sized needle/seats. I am glad your telling me about the carb though, I dont know what I would have done if you hadn't listed off all that stuff that effects performance. Thanks for setting me straight on it! :shoothead:

If anything the fatty is a mid-top pipe like a T5 or the old Gold series. The Gnarly and the SST are fmf's current trail pipes. Nobody runs them, hence no one knows about them, and they never get talked about. A pipe that sees 9,500+ rpm is not a trail pipe. a pipe that peaks at 8,000-8,900 rpm is going to be at max a great low-mid pipe. The best trail pipe fmf ever made was the old school woods pipes. They made awesome low end power. So no, the fatty is not a trail pipe, nor is it an all around pipe. You can't build a pipe for a 2 stroke that covers all ranges. You would have to have a reactive adjustable power valve and an on the fly adjustable pipe.

I run special order carbon tech mid reeds on stock cages.

Thats not a very trail oriented set of pipes. The 2 into 1 intake gains on the low end are hardly noticeable and not worth the loss on the topend. I wouldn't switch.

The float arm contacts the needle, and the needle sits in the seat.

List everything thats already done to your bike.

I put the Magura Hydraulic clutch on this morning.

Too big of pilots. What needle, slide, needle/seat, and nozzle are in them?

I dont really recommend the T5 or a 2 into 1 for a trail motor. FMF made about 5 different pipes, so you will have to clarify on that one.

I had a canadian bid on something 2 weeks ago and win it without contacting me first. Then I sent him a paypal bill for the extra amount because he paid right away through paypal. He finally paid it 4 days later.

Will be listing a bunch of banshee parts. I got some on already. Auction Link

I agree. So what do you want, not what is it right now?

So do you want a trail bike or a fast drag or speed oriented bike? Your parts are all over the map here, and none of them are matched up to each other. What compression is it? Pump gas domes can be anywhere from 90psi all the way up to 165psi. Are the domes machined, or is there a spacer plate on this thing? Do you know what the exhaust duration is? Whats your squish at? Did you assemble the motor, or did the builder do it? I ask all this, because you want to make sure you have done everything right so far before you go throwing more parts on it.

They dont make better low or mid hp. They just hold peak rpm better. So it will stay on the pipe easier once you bring it up to about the 7800-8600 rpm range. A road bike should be running more of a top end oriented pipe.