Snopczynski

stock cages with low or mid tension reeds do better for trails.

what compression are you running, whats your timing set at, and what silencers do you have?

OK, so whats your point? I told him he didn't have to move ports up or down to make a banshee run better. If you widen them, it changes port velocity and flow. That doesn't change port duration or timing though. You should have just put a smiley face on that post, cause it was worthless. :biggrin: Everyone has to start somewhere, there was a time when I hadn't ported a motor. There is other people on here who I know of that have ported their own motors. All these guys have been at motor count ZERO, and put one notch in their belt. Are we all a bunch of negative Nancies to where we are going to tell someone they can't or shouldn't do something? I say do your homework, read some books, ask some questions, and do it yourself. I feel alot better doing things myself and having the knowledge. Anyone can go out and drop some cash to HAVE someone do something for you.

VF3's are better. But if I had that bike I would run TZ500 reed cages with carbon fiber blaster reed petals on them.

FALSE. ALL the two stroke engine formulas can be done by hand. You dont have to move ports up and down to make a set of stock cylinders work better for you. Widening ports, increase tunnel size, and sharpening some things in the cylinder will wake a bike right up.

I use a variable speed dremel with a flex shaft adjustment, and one of these also that I got for around $60.00 with an adjustble speed pedal. I have a 100 degree pencil air grinder, and a mini air grinder too. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/disp...temnumber=40432

The trinity pipes are by no means an all around pipe. I have ridden bikes with them, and they are a mid-top pipe that turns on like a light switch. If you want midrange power, your gonna want something like ptr mids, pro circuits, or the fmf SST. When you have the motor ported, tell them you want your exhaust duration at no more than 188 degrees. Also, set your compression up at a bare minimum of 165 psi or more. Dont do anything crazy like put vf3's or aftermarket intakes on it. There are a lot of inexpensive things you can do for mid power that all together can make the bike pull and wheelie like a monster. If you search on here, you can find what people have recommended for bottom end or midrange power. There is even a couple threads about everything done to my bike. Dont put a 2 into 1 carburetor or pipe on it.

If you build a bike right and tune it well, you can make some un-understood pipes work well for you. I run a low-mid pipe and have a redline of around 8700-9000 rpm. I only ride sand, and I drag race and ride the dunes, sand trails, and idiot holes as well. It does exceptionally well drag racing. It will most of the time win, but it stays right on the tail of well tuned 350's with big carbs and mid-top pipes. You need to decide where you want your power delivery to be, then we can point you in the right direction.

I Quit using boyseen reeds a long time ago. We have done dyno testing with the carbon techs and had good results. The ride tests seem to show good results also.

Carbon tech?

CArbon tech low tension reeds on stock cages.

Holy Shit, you guys sold this guy on some pipes without ever even telling him a trail pipe and a dune pipe combo dont exist. Is frogger the only one who asked the question that needed to be asked? Not to mention I wouldn't even buy a set of trinity pipes with stolen money for my worst enemy to run on his bike. Lets do this the right way. What type of riding do you do as the vast majority? What mods do you plan to do later? The vf3 reeds are pretty much only gonna make a difference on a drag or top end motor. So using them for trail riding is not doing you much good.

Its a dynoport 2 into 1. The other pipe (motofast) went out of business. It is not a low end pipe, its an mx pipe that helps maintain peak rpm. I dynoed it, then I moved on back to twin pipes.

Do a search, there is a thread on here named "The big Question has been answered".

cascade csfx with the star end caps.

Here is my old bike.

PM Me.

Have the stock one lightened at Dave Moore Racing in Oregon.

Just so you guys know, changing the rear tail light bulb from a 168 halogen to a 194 T11 led actually increases the draw on the system by about 96 milliamps. My Trail techs are a little sand blasted, but I am getting rid of them. They have 35w bulbs in them also.

do a search on here for dc conversion. Its been covered thousands of times.

Last stuck shifter I had was a bent shift shaft. The shift star retainer end had ended up moving out and not engaging the pins anymore. The bog could more than likely be a needle adjustment issue. It can also be caused by mismatched parts are improperly installed gasket thickness', etc....... A list of your setup, current carb settings, and mods would help figure it out.

Oury, been using them for 15 years.

If its for the dunes witht hose pipes then vforce 3's. If you ride trails I would get a more midrange pipe and run some carbon tech mid tensions on stock cages.

I did a search, check this link out. It should give you a general idea of what amount of parts and money is involved for a ported bike. A 4 mill will add more power everywhere and more torque. Not sure exactly how much though. Link

What type of riding do you do? How do you want your power delivery to be?