shanYE west

I gotcha.. I just read that wrong.

Ummm.... Thats not a Tie rod.. I'm going out on a limb here... but.. I think its a Ball joint.

I got a upper left. $35 to your door.

I got one.. its 2yrs old. It was working fine.. I just put in a different one since I'm doing a new build. There is some light grooving but is 100% useable. $15 shipped

Hmmm.. My employment search contiues.. :yelrotflmao:

You'll need a lockup, overide, swingar and all that stuff eitehr way if he's looking for a 4.5 or faster bike.

I'm either leaving thursday night or EARLY firday... Hey.. I need a crew.. You guys taking applications? :yelrotflmao:

I would disagree with it making more hp.. But the lighter weight does penetrate the clutch plates better. I used ATF type F no problems.. I use the MTL 75wt. As long as there is oil in the cases and your clutch dont slip.... thats what matters!

Bump for a great deal. Wont be dissapointed. Hard to find a better seller.

It really depends on where your at with parts.. If you have a set of stock cylinders that arn't ported.. I'd go with the stock cylinders.. But if you have to get new cylinders.. then get them ported.. your farther ahead getting a cub. Both will run very close. It really comes down to setup... Both will be fast.. as long as their setup correctly for what your doing. Talk to some builders and ask them wich route would be better for you, your expectations and budget. A&S and RDZ build some VERY fast stock cylinder motors..

Call a few builders and talk to them for awhile and see what they got to say.. If you like what they have to say.. go with that builder. They'll beable to tell you what port would best suit your needs better then we can.

I'm pretty sure 87sheerips makes some brackets to mount the pump under the seat.

Do you still have the head studs and block guard?

I have some stock manifolds.. how about 17.00 shipped?

Not a "pro-design" head.. but its definately made by pro-design for some other company. The shell is a give away. Same as the PTR power heads and the WSM heads.. Just uses a different cut out on the top shell A Noss or pro-design O-ring kit will work.

Should have only listed the motor then.. Would save alot on useless posts.

Pipes wont work for me.. But Boo is looking for some big bores. Are they big flange or small? I'm assuming they are big bores correct?

On the back side of the basket yes... but the barnett basket has stell plates riveted onto the "fingers" of the basket. He's saying he drilled out the rivets on ea. finger and replaced them with taper head bolts.

What he said... :biggrin:

They're only needed to match the cages to the intake... if your intakes are round.. then use the VF stuffer.. if their square.. then you should use the Cascade stuffers..

I'd like to see this too! sounds like a good plan.

can't help ya if we can't see it..

I feel the same way.. Like the idea.. but them rivets scare me..

I normally use one disconnect (Can get them in the pars unlimited catalog for like 20bucks..) Put the disconnect on the outside line. Shut the fuel valve off and disconnect the line.. then plug in the othe disconnect with a long drain tube.. Drain the tank... hook the line back up and put about .5 gallon of purge fuel in and run it out... done.. no mess.. Also.. I dont use disconnects with the shut offs.. I just hold a towel under it when I sperate the connect.

is this a banshee motor?