shanYE west

With my pwks when it was overflowing.. the level of the fuel was about 2 inches above where the carb and bowl meet. So.. with the valve is off.. the level of the fuel is pretty close to where the carb/bowl meet. When I turned on the fuel.. I could see the level rise about 2 inches I knew it was draining into my cases . If i tunred the valve on.. and the level didn't change.. I knew my seats were good. no.. It was not from rich jetting.. The pass didn't feel right cuz the stuck needle and seat.. Then when you parked to let it cool down it filled the cases up. When you kicked it over it pulled the fuel up into the combustion chamber and thats when it hydro locked.

I just checked back through your build pics and I saw the billet bowls. The billet bowls are notorious for this happening. They dont have a overflow tube. So it was most likely as Damian said.. either the neadle and seat stuck open or the float height was incorrectly set. Had this happen to me at the begining of last season.. But I saw it happen so I was able to catch it before I bent a rod. I was sucking fuel out of my cases at the track and cleaning my carbs for 2 hours. A good way to see if its overflowing is to watch the fuel level in the PJ line..

Not cleaning out the motor on the line wont hydro lock the motor.. It will just run rich off the line. What float bowls were you using? I bet they were billet?

TTT for a great guy and a strong motor!

I've ran both and didn't notice much difference. They're both dual stage. I would have to assume as long as tension is the same on the coupler reed. The only difference would be the carbon would have a longer life span. The ends did fray and chip rather quickly on the power reeds I had. Pro series is a good reed though.. Ran them on my blaster for years!

I just weighed my 18x4 SLS tire and it weighed 4lbs. (10x2 spindle mounts were 3.8) So like you said they are 8lbs ea. If they shave 4lbs off.. that means that the tire weighed 8lbs to start on a B2B? Somthing isn't adding up. I can't see where they could shave another tire from a 18x4 B2B. Not saying your wrong.. Just a tuff pill to take from my point of view. You sure you didn't mean 4lbs for the set? My 21x7x10 SLS was only 2lbs lighter then my 21x7x10 standard buff (not B2B)

Thought you had B2B's the first time.? I just weighed my 25" 16 extreme stagerds on 10" rims and they weighed 15.5 lbs.

Now I disagree.. Barnett clutches are expensive.. but.. IMO the fibers glaze easily and the springs loose tension rather fast. So you dont always get what you pay for. I do like the steels though.

I was replying to your post......... You said there was nothing wrong with being a know it all..

Them are dual stage power reeds... The pro series use a carbon fiber top reed and a epoxy lower.

Bump for a great guy a and a sweet deal on some tires! The Extreme's with Kevlar are not cheap!! Someone is going to get a steal on these! I'd be all over them if I still had my 4mil cub! P.S Wasn't Joe20002 looking for a set of 12 pdls?

I must have missed the boat on this one too..

Problem is.. He dont know it all.. There is no problems with running a Tusk kit in a drag bike.. To state otherwise and tell someone else their wrong then try to belittle them for suggesting it is bullshit.. "Well the post is asking what clutch he should get, he has a full drag port and t5's. Then you say all the stuff about the tusk. So I think just about everyone read it as you trying to sell him on a tusk clutch for his bike." Whats wrong with suggesting a Tusk kit?? Lots of people have had great luck with the Tusk kits in their DRAG bikes.

Not always true.. I've ran Tusk kits in every one of my bikes.. 2 Banshee's, Raptor, YFZ450 and my 250r. Everyone of the motors was built and they held up... Oh.. and they also held on my 70+ hp drag bike with no lockup. (and thats taking off your so called 15%) I ran a Tusk kit on my 4mil drag ported cub with no problems for 2yrs.. And i'll probably be running the same Tusk kit next year. Tusk isn't a bad kit and is a viable option. But if you sleep better at night just by spending 60-70 bucks more on a clutch kit. More power to ya.

maybe a pound or 2... I use standard buff front tires for the dunes.. a lil extra weight in the front never hurts.. Plus.. I'm not as worried about a twig popping the tire.. lol

chariot cages with boyesen power reeds. I think they're about $150 for the set. or if your just looking to upgrade the stock cages you can get the power reeds for $50 or somthing like that.

Well... Thats not good. My vote goes for "spin the bottle" then.. :biggrin:

If this is going to be a drag motor. Out of the builders listed. My vote goes to Rudy Kurtz.

Your building a 4mil to do what type of riding?? is this a drag motor? Trail motor? dune motor?

You could always play "spin the bottle!" lol

My cousin lives in Inverness.. he's just moved there and don't know where the good riding spots are at.

Sold

PM sent with paypal addy.

I rebuilt that pump and the guts looked good as new.. didn't need a rebuild at all.

PM sent back Rodney. I'm going to stay at $110 shipped. Thats still a smoking deal with domes.