Strm Trpr

Sweet! I just messaged him. Hopefully he gets back to me soon.

Sleeper got back to me. He's sick with the flu and can't build my motor in that time frame with his current workload, which it totally understandable. So I asked him about only porting, boring for new wiseco's, inspect and true/weld the crank and port match the top case. I hope he can do that. I also have an email into Jeff at FAST.

Sweet, thank you! The transmission is the main thing. I feel a promod just isn't a promod without the drum bearing mod too. I have cylinders ready to go, I just need someone with talent to port them, bore them and port match the top case. I do need the crankshaft inspected and trued/welded as well.

I know, I just bought the bike yesterday and was trying to get it dialed in for our June 9th trip. I don't really need the motor built. I just need bore/port work, pistons, promod and an engine rebuild gasket and seal kit. I can build the motor and leakdown test it. I hit up sleeper. I hope he can get back to me. I can source all of the other bits to make it a whole package. Just need the talent...

Thank you! I found him on facebook. I messaged him. Hopefully he get's back to me.

HJR charges $275 for a promod and doesn't do the drum bearing mod. What about the other Cameron? I forgot his screen name. I have my virgin 2002 cylinders I can send out for bore/port work. Need pistons and a gasket/seal kit. I also need a trued/welded stock crankshaft. I have a leakdown tester.

You're all gonna laugh at me, but I just picked up a super clean 97 with a seized motor for $1k and I was hoping to send the motor out to get built into a dune/play 350 with a promod and get it back by June 2nd.

Yeah, I thought so.I PM'd him, he read it but gave no response. I hope he gets back to me. It would be cool to have one of his dune/play 350 motors for my buddy bike.

Yeah, I know, but I was trying to find someone that can get it done under one roof and sooner. If no one can get it done then it'll go to Cameron.

My Serval for my 2002 is at Redline being built as we speak. Yeah, I'm looking for a strong mid-range dune/play 350 build. I picked up a 97 yesterday cheap and I wanted to send the motor out to be built and have the trans promod'd w/drum bearing mod all in one shot.

I'm looking for a reputable shop that can build a strong running dune/play motor that will also promod the transmission and perform the bearing mod to the drum. I hit up Sleeper just waiting for his response. Thank you for any input.

Novice skills on a 521? WTF? I did as well and caster was at 10* and my bike turned like a fucking truck! I bought a digital angle finder from harbor freight and dialed in caster to 6* and camber to -1.5*. Fucking thing turns like a Ferrari now but requires a steering stabilizer.

To the OP. If you do go with Fireball, tell them you want to run the larger Raptor 700 tie rod ends. The threads of the tie rods are larger so the tie rod diameters are larger and heavy duty. Yes, the taper is the same and will fit your steering stem and knuckles.

Airbox and lid? If so, at that elevation I would think jetting needs to be 25 pilot, 1-1.5 turns out on air screws, 250 mains (verify with true plug chop) and needle clips in the middle groove to start. Verify that a rubber hose runs between the two carbs and connects the right carb to the left carb inline with choke plunger. The left carb has the choke plunger. The right carb choke circuit is connected to the left carb choke circuit with a rubber hose. Without the rubber hose, only the left carb is choked and adds more fuel during cold start. Once you verify a plug chop for the mains, I'd try the needle clips in the 4th groove from the blunt end of the needle. Groove nearest blunt end is #1 and groove closest to pointed end is groove #5. I still think the clutch cover needs to be taken off to see if anything is obviously wrong with the shifting mechanism. Does this bike still have the TORS and parking brake systems installed? If so, remove that crap. They only complicate trouble shooting and when the parking brake and/or TORS system fails it makes the bike a PITA.

http://farmandsandtoys.com/ocart2/carburetor-sync-tool.html?search=Carb%20sync End of discussion!

We still need to know what mods and jets this bike has.

With regards to the shifting problem, I'd drain the water and gear oil and pull off the clutch cover and see if it's actually the shifting mechanism or it's in the transmission. And get a clymers manual or dig around here for the Yamaha service manual in PDF.

The stuck in 1st problem could be that the eccentric screw lock washer allowed the nut to loosen and the shift shaft came out of adjustment. When you get it started does that noise reappear?

My thoughts exactly, but i too am trying to be optimistic. That's not enough elevation to worry about. I always go thru a "new to me bike" before I really ride it. I'd go thru all of it. Check and replace the plugs. Plugs are cheap. Drain the fuel and mix a fresh batch. If you're having problems with it maybe just mix 2 gallons or so and use a "ratio rite" cup. Check water and gear oil. With the motor running, make sure water is circulating while looking thru the rad cap hole. What mods are on it, and what jets are in it?

The bogging could very well be jetting, and/or fouled plugs. What elevation was the bike jetted at, if jetted correctly at all? And what elevation are you currently riding at?

^^^ and they use Raptor 700 inner and outer tie rod ends which are heavier duty than banshee junk.

VF4's $205 plus shipping from FAST.

Is there any correlation with motor size, rpm, power level for the reason why the VF pedals break up? I ran 15 gallon of fuel thru my new VF4's at the dunes gettin on it pretty hard, but my motor was all bolt-on, no porting, so probably around 45ish whp and they still look perfect. The Serval these are going in will double that output, rev higher and breath harder. I'm wondering if I need to keep an extra set of pedals and gaskets handy...

If it's a pump gas stock bore/stroke it'll probably look like this. Very awesome improvement over stock, but I also changed to VF4's, UPP Intakes, 33mm PWK's and PC's w/304's over Chariot Reeds, Chariot Intakes, Stock Bored Carbs and T5's. Took my stock port cylinder's from 120psi to 150psi cold kicking compression and the squish test came in right at .054". http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?/topic/186417-pump-gas-mull-engineering-head/

I read this dog shit this morning and I didn't want to get involved.