Strm Trpr

I've got a all black Howa 1500 Target Master Package Winchester .243 for sale. Comes fully loaded with 4-16x44 three turret optics, 6-9" bi-pod, ATI detachable 10 rnd mag, bore snake viper cleaning rope and a padded plastic carrying case. Howa is a Japanese arms manufacaturer. They make their own barrels and they make the Weatherby Vanguard barrels. If you're interested, PM me, I'll make you a sweet deal on this. BTW, the Win .243 is a necked down cartridge of the .308 Win. Tons of powder to push a 100gr 6mm bullet to fly flat and fast! This is the Target Master pacakge. http://legacysports.com/hogue-targetmaster-package I bought it two years ago from Buds Guns. It's all black and I believe it's a 24" barrel, if not maybe it's 22" barrel, but it's definitely not a 20" barrel.

Where'd these graphics come from?

Pull both plugs out. Make sure engine switch and fuel are off. Hold throttle WFO and kick it until the needle stops. For shits and giggles, I like to write down number of kicks and compression value. Rinse and repeat. Report back. Also, did you happen to see the condition of the reeds? You said they're VF3's correct? Kinda odd someone would put VF3's on a very stock motor. And I don't mean to sound like you don't know your way around a banshee, just trying to help, and hopefully other newbies can learn from this as well.

You have consistent compression between both cylinders with a quality compression tester?

Cool, try switching spark plug wires and see if the right side misfires and runs cooler. If it misfires on the right side now, then check the resistance of the spark plug wires. You might have a bad wire, some rust or some crud on the connection where the wires connect to the coil.

With the air filter off and the engine off, can you see the carb slides move up and down? If so, they must lift off their seat exactly the same time. I'm not sure how to adjust that with TORS. Maybe it's the knob on the TORS boxes on top of the carbs?

Float Height is very important. 21+/-1mm I hope he's on the stock pipes, cause if not he's very lean.

20:1 is part of your probelm. You have a seriously rich oil/fuel mix. Way too much oil in there and not enough fuel parts per million. Think about it. What oil are you running? I run Yamalube 2R. I have forever and I run it at 40:1 with no problems at all, ever. That's one 16oz bottle or pint to 5 gallons of 91 octane. I had a stock 87 motor that I had bored to .020" over and ran the balls out of that motor since 95 on 40:1 2R for probably a good 60 hours and it still ran when I pulled it and sold it. Drain your fuel tank, and your carbs. Make sure and blow out the pilot jet and main jet real good with carb cleaner and an air compressor Mix a fresh batch of fuel at 32:1 if you're so paranoid. Amsoil Dominator, I believe is what it's called, is engineered to run at 50:1. The service manuals for the Yamaha 2 stroke 350cc motor was written in the early 70's when it started life as an air-cooled RD350 street bike w/oil injection. Oil has come a long way since then, my man....

Is this a single K&N in your airbox? Oh, and make sure that K&N filter is not over oiled or it will choke the air intake. Test this by running your motor without the filter. But make damn sure the airbox, if you have one, is spotless.

Welcome!! What is your elevation? What oil are you mixing and at what ratio? I'll tell you right now, the K&N and VF3's are going to require more fuel because they are much higher flowing than the stock components. Get that boost bottle out of there, it's a gimmick. I have a stock cross-over tube I'll sell you for $10 paypal gift and I'll cover shipping. I have the stock intake too incase yours is cracked around the boost bottle interface, a well known area for intake leaks. Let me know! Turn your air screws in all the way lightly seated and see how it runs then. Many people, think when an engine boggs, it's because there's too much fuel. By turning in your air screws you are effectively adding more fuel to the intake. Try it, you'll see the difference, if not, then build yourself one of these and hunt down a possible air leak. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?/topic/110585-leakdown-tester/ Your throttle should snap quick off idle. It should Brrraaappp. Not Brrrooooaaaagggg. Think about it, your intake tract is waaayyy freer flowing than stock. Why in the world would stock jets be supplying too much fuel??

Maybe he should've started at $150 and I wouldn't have wanted to kick him in the nuts thru the internet!! LOL

Noted!! But a $125 offer is kinda ridiculous. I think even you might bitch...

Just curious, have you actually measured squish with and w/out o-rings in the head and were the results different? Correct me if I'm wrong. But, I'd imagine the o-ring in the groove of the dome allows the dome to actually seat and seal on the cylinders, metal to metal contact. The primary function of that o-ring in that groove is to not allow combustion gases/pressures past the o-ring and lose compression.

Now, how would you recommend tapping into those wires? For instance, I'm going to run this exact rectifier. I have the stock plugs for the stock lights and the guy from Kompulsive Concepts wired in a custom hidden switch for my stock lights to come on high beam only. I want to use this switch, but it controls the two stock plugs. The 10" SR2 LED Light Bar has only 1 set of wires, what do I do?

$200 paypal'd and I'll cover shipping. $190 paypal gift and I'll cover shipping.

Any tips on how to wire the Rigid LED Driving Light and rectifier on a Banshee? When it comes to electrical, I'm kinda retarded...

Yeah, I want in on that. Always cool to meet the guys from HQ!! Are you talking next year for the 4th?

People have been using this with great sucess. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-Snowmobile-Rectifier-Converts-12V-AC-to-12V-DC-Voltage-ATV-/171266352572?hash=item27e04525bc&vxp=mtr I plan on running one with my 10" Rigid LED Light Bar in the stock location. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?/topic/180904-running-leds/?hl=led

I'll hit you up when we get to the beach Sat morning Sept. 5th.

Thanks Josh!!I won't be down for the 4th. My buddy and I are making a day trip on the 11th. And we'll be down for Labor Day. I hope to check out that 4mil cub!!

OK, let me rephrase, "The right way to cut is by using a rotary vise in an end mill with coolant." I read the correct way to cut transmission and for some reason I thought that's how this transmission was cut, well it's not. It appears to have been cut with a dremel, but done very, very well. Josh, if upon your initial inspection you do not like the transmission, send it back and I'll refund your money and your return shipping to me. But if you install it and run it, then it's yours to keep. But I'll tell you what, I bet you're gonna really like this transmission once you get it in your hands. This transmission is in unbelievable condition. There's no noticeable wear on any gear teeth and everything turns super smooth and the idler gear doesn't wobble at all. I'll let the pictures speak for themselves.

everyone will know when it's time...

No way man!! They did it right for sure. Cut the dogs in a rotary vise on a mill using coolant!! I'm reluctant to sell it, but need to raise funds for that call to Redline.

Right on Josh!! PM me your number, I lost it in my old phone. That's gotta be some sort of record. Damn thing sold in 1 min...