Strm Trpr

Can we get everything anodized any color? I'd prefer black w/out graphics. But for those that prefer graphics, may I suggest anodizing the cover first, then machine the graphics into the cover.

1 - 2XL T-shirt Blue 1 - 3XL Hoodie Blue

Put me down for two 2XL's.

Yeah man, it seemed like you were coming out of pocket a shit ton. If your insurance is going to help out, then by all means, sit on it like tricked and loco said.

Part it out, save the scratch and buy yourself a badass prosthetic that'll enable you to ride another day!! You can always build another Banshee, you can't build another you!! Take care of yourself first so you can take care of your family!! Godspeed brother!! Keep your chin up!! I can't even imagine the emotions!! Take care and keep us posted. And don't let any of these cheap bastards lowball you!!

Did you do a compression test? My 02's motor is bone stock. Many, many hours since 2002. I've put at least 100 gallons of fuel thru the motor since 2011. Cold, she still kicks 120psi at sea level. Cold she starts after a few kicks. After she's warm, she'll start first kick every time. If you're not porting, boring and welding the crank, leave it together and ride that motor into the ground. Enjoy it, learn it, learn how to tune for maximum bolt on power and save your money for a proper 4mil build. A full bolt on Banshee has too much power for the stock suspension. My next bolt on mod is have the stock head cut and rechambered for maximum efficient combustion. I focus on improving handling and controls before more power. At least that's how I roll...

I grabbed one of the raw brackets!! Thanks JD!!

If the motor picked up after reducing octane, then I'd advance the timing rather than reduce the octane.

I'm just spit balling here, but this is how I'd try and handle it with my two sons. If your son wants to play, make a contract with him. First allow him to fully recover and both of you need to become educated on concussions. After recovery, education, understanding the consequences of such injuries and he still wants to play, then it is up to you find a way to get him the best equipment so that he is properly protected. << If there's such a thing. Explain to him that he is fully protected now and if he gets hurt again that it's your job to protect him now and he has to agree to stop playing. Brain trauma is no joke, especially at age 11. My 2¢...

Eat my bloody cunt!!

Whoa, that was uncalled for you fuckin internet tuff guy...

Holy shit, that's huge possible crank pin centers and rod center to center length tolerance variances...

I've always assembled gaskets using regular motor oil on all of the motors I've worked on, and that includes boosted Mitsu 4G63's!! Never leaks, and super easy to remove. But there is one caveat. The surfaces have to be OEM. If any sort of rotary scotch brite pad is used to remove a previous owners 1211 or RTV bullshit, the gasket sealing surfaces are fuckt and you will be forever using RTV or the like.

Damn, I was wondering about that. HTF do you explain not getting squish right if the builder has your entire motor? I thought maybe the motors that were pooched were ones sold as bolt-on and go kits with ported cyls, base gasket, crank, pistons and domes. I'd assume it's hard to get squish perfect that way, but not impossible. Anyone that has the proper tools to assemble crankshafts should have the tools to correctly measure and blue print the motor from the top case half to the tops of the cylinders and then get squish pretty gotdamn close!! Granted the top case needs to be sent in for case matching, but when charged an additional price for the power gain the return is hard to justify. Redline will case match free with any port job...

Aren't these big motors thirsty? I hate having to cut a bitchin riding session short due to burning too much fuel. My motor is stock but my suspension allows me to use every single rpm of the motor at all times!! Ride WFO!!

Exactly!!

I agree!! Yamaha almost got this thing right. I wonder how long it'll be before they pull their head's out of their ass? They have the sequential gearbox there already, why the fuck didn't they put paddle shifters on the steering wheel is beyond me. Who the fuck wants to take their hand off the steering wheel to shift when driving off-road WFO in an aftermarlket turbocharged SxS?

Welcome to the site!! What oil are you using in your premix and what ratio? If stock carbs, no such thing as a 245 main jet. Per FMF's site, 30 pilots, 260 mains, needle stock, middle groove, air screw 1.5 turns out. It states right in the text that there are too many variable to tuning, so this is a starting point. Due to you having the airbox and lid, I recommend 27.5 pilots, 260 mains, needle clips middle groove and 1.5 turns out on your air screws. You want the snappiest rev off idle. If you end up < 1 turn out on the air screws, then increase pilot jets 1 size.

Welcome to the BHQ!! Go look at that 87, ride it and see what you think. Personally I'd wait to find a newer a-arm bike. Especially if you're an aggressive rider. The j-arms will wear out bushings and possibly ball joints faster and can potentially bend easier if abused with airing it out or even aggressive trail riding. I've seen and ridden Stellar j-arms, and they're alright. They PnP'd real nice on my buddies 89. Call up Larry at Fireball Racing for j-arms if you have to have this particular machine. Either shop will set you up. Tell either shop you want to run Raptor 700 tierod ends. They're 12mm rather than puny stock 10mm crap. And FWIW, you can get front and rear stage 3 Elka shocks for ~$1300. J-arms for around $600. Heavy Duty Gusseted Swing arm from Fireball Racing w/carrier for around $650. Tusk +4 axle for $200.

, you're probably right, my motor is still stock. But if you look at my mod list, you'll see that I've modified my Banshee's handling and suspension. I don't give two shits about being the fastest, if your suspension isn't upgraded, you'd never be able to keep up with my slow ass Banshee.

Ahhh, yup, big hell no to that shop.

Educate me, "ECA"?

How did I know this was coming? You're not in school, and it's, "didn't know we were in school". Have some courtesy to those that try and read your dribble or don't bitch when you get no responses or respect. A little courtesy and respect goes a long way. Hell, you should know that, you're from Texas!! Actually, I digress, you are in school son, it's called www.bansheehq.com where you can learn a ton of info about Banshee's.

Welcome to the site. Use punctuation, that was a painfully long run on sentence.

For instance, Amsoil Dominator is formulated and safe to run in oil injection and pre-mix at 50:1. What's your plan of attack? If it were me and I was using Dominator, I'd mix a fresh batch of fuel at 50:1, or at the very least 40:1 which is exactly 1pt to 5 gallons of fuel. 94 octane, where do you even get that? What is requiring you to run 94 octane? Is your Cub Ported? I don't think 24cc domes require anything more than 91 octane, but I may be mistaken. If higher octane is not required, ie., due to high compression or high timing advance, it can hurt combustion. Granted you're only using 94, so that shouldn't be the problem. First things first. Are you properly sync'd with a FAST Sync tool at an idle of 1500 rpms minimum? You want the airscrews about 1.5 turns out and the throttle snappy as fuck off idle. You will achieve this by dialing in the pilots. If the airscrews are between the the filter and the carb slide, then turning the airscrews in will richen the mixture, just like stock carbs. Are you sync'd at part throttle, say 5000 rpms? I use a simple eBay digital 2 stroke tach. Passed leakdown, so that's good. I know it's a new build, but what's the kicking compression with the throttle WFO? And like mentioned above, write everything down. If the needle clips are in groove 1, at the top, blunt end of needle, then you have the needles fully lowered into the needle jet making the mid-range mixture full lean, does that even make sense? What jetting have you tried?