Strm Trpr

Actually, you asked about the pros and cons of mono blocks vs individual cylinders. Nothing was asked about how to tune a motor. And, doing research means looking things up and digging up info yourself. That's cool you want to be your own builder, go for it. All of us work on our own motors. I know enough to keep it running perfect. The builder knows how to get the piston to just fit under the squish band with utmost care not to crash the piston into the head when revving to 10,0000+ rpms. Being able to perform a squish band test and cut your own dome profile isn't necessary but would be awesome. Off the shelf domes are OK and will get it done, but the motor will never run to its maximum potential without custom cut domes. The combustion dome and squish band area will make or break the build, hands down. And BTW, aren't you kinda putting the cart before the horse here?

There is absolutely no way anyone can use all of the power a bolt-on Banshee can offer without upgrading the suspension and controls first, period!! If you can't get the power to the ground and control it, what's the point? Suspension and controls first, especially if you're riding Moto-X!! Oh, and don't forget tires!! And, since you don't have a Banshee yet, may I ask if you've even ridden one yet?

my buddy has them on his 89 with +2 stellar j-arms and his bike carves the dunes as if the fronts were rudders!!

I had my stock carbs bored by RB Designs. http://www.rb-designs.com/rb_designs_llc_014.htm I could definitely feel the increase in mid-range and top-end. He bores the width to 26.5mm and then bores the height from the floor of the throat up 2mm to 28mm. The outlet to the intake boot is opened up to 30mm. The divider plate is installed and really improves the bottom-end throttle response. He recommended that I fatten up jetting, so I increased the pilots to 30's, raised the needle by putting the clip in the 4th groove and increased the main to 310's. Way too fat down low and throttle response sucked. I had to turn the air screws out 2.5 times to make it snappy, and it still suffered some. I put the needle back down into the middle groove and bamn, it was damn near perfect. The plan now is to reinstall the 27.5's with the needle clip in the middle groove and run the 310's and do a plug chop. I'm going to do a squish test http://www.rb-designs.com/rb_designs_llc_017.htm and send Ron my stock head http://www.rb-designs.com/rb_designs_llc_024.htm to squeeze a little more power out of this stock motor.

Douglas Doonz front tires rock in the sand. https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/1603/30425/Douglas-Doonz-Front-ATV-Tire

Ahh yes, that's what I thought. Thanks for clearing that up Deadbeat!!

Try google... http://www.keihincarbs.com/tips/gate.html

I tried sending you a PM. I've read about TZ bearing failures when the PTO side had stock beveled gears? I'd imagine it was because of something else though. Thoughts?

According to this slide, clip position does not affect WOT.

Wow, that's exactly what I'm going to build!! GLWS!!

I'll be there Friday. Carlo, you bringing a Duner?

Do all normal bolt-ons. Pods w/outerwears Reeds Head rechambering Pipes +4* Timing advance Controls: Steering Stem Fat Bars ODI Rouge Grips Suspension: No need for long travel front suspension. It adds $600-$1000 to your front suspension upgrade depending on shock choice. +2+1 a-arms Anything is better than stock. Elka stage 3 front/rear shock package 2012 YFZ450R rear hubs will add about 2" to the width.

So, which pipes perform better for carving the dunes, PC's or T5's?

Some people just don't get it...

You Sir are correct, I fixed my post.

Neither of those two items work. Boost bottle is a gimmick. Aftermarket CDI's do not work. You can double the stock hp to the back wheels with the following: Pro Circuit Pipes are excellent pipe. K&N Filters w/Outerwears or Pro Design Intake w/K&N and Outerwear in airbox, no lid. Stock Carbs Custom machined stock head or Cool Head w/domes. V-Force Reeds Cylinder Porting Trued & Welded Crankshaft Billet Adjustable Stator Timing Plate set to +4*. That's an easy 60-65whp.

Damn, ^^^ exactly what I'm going to build.

Any grease is fine. Doesn't have to be Vaseline.

If the cylinder got wet, more than likely it got glazed and you should buy a ball hone and deglaze the cylinders, then install new rings. And when installing a cool head, I always install the orings with a little bit of Vasiline. The Vaseline is sticky and does a great job holding the orings in place when you invert the head. I just did this entire job on my buddy's dune ported 89.

^^^ Exactly

Whoa, WTF?Let me get this straight, your motor can't hold 6psi for 6 minutes and you're trying to tell us you swear you've read that 1psi/minute is acceptable. I have no idea if that's true. All I know is a leakdown test must hold 6psi for 6 min. If it doesn't I'm tracking that leak down and fixing it. You just dumped $$$$ into your toilet if you don't find and fix your motor's leak. All I know is I go on a couple riding trips a year that are 6hr drives away and my junk better run perfect.

Rebuild it right and do it once. Rebuild it half ass do it twice. Was the water pump gear melted or broken? Melting a water pump means you got that motor hot as Fuck, and I bet the motor got hot as Fuck because of an air leak caused the motor to run lean. If the motor got hot enough to melt the water pump, it got hot enough to melt crankshaft seals. Do yourself a favor and do a leakdown before tearing it down to pinpoint the problem.

Gotcha

What's the FFS for?

Nice Confederate Flag Shockwears!!