Strm Trpr

I'm talking to Bill right now about a low port timing 4mil 66mm bore 397 ported for MXing the Dunes.

You wouldn't happen to have any size specs and/or pics would you?

Is that what you run?

N68A's are stock in 28mm PWK's and work well. You can get them at Cascade. http://www.cascadeinnovations.net/store/store_View.cfm?STORE_AREA_ID=13&store_dept_id=610

OP, you can try 27.5 pilots but if your air screws are less than 1 turn out, you'll need to go to a 30 pilot.

Because it's cold you have VF3's with K&N pods I'd recommend the following: make sure idle is set make sure carbs are sync'd 30 pilots air screws 1.5 - 2 turns out 280-300 mains needle clips middle groove you want to adjust the air screws so that there's no hesitation or bog off idle. You want it to snap off idle when you jab the throttle. What oil are you mixing and at what ratio? I run Yamalube 2R at 40:1 for 20+ years with absolutely no problems.

You're welcome on the shocks... Shoulda got Snipers for your SS!!

my valve is already bent and she loves it...

If it bogs it needs fuel. Turn your air screws in 1/4 turn at a time until that bog goes away.

Is it hard to start when cold? If your pilot is lean it should be lazy off idle when you snap the throttle open. 32:1 is rich for today's oil. I've been running YamaLube 2R for 20+ yrs at 40:1 and never a lubrication failure. Plus 16oz of oil to 5 gals is exactly 40:1. I ran my current mods at sea level at Pismo with 30 pilots, clip in 4th groove and 310 mains. Bottom end was lazy as fuck. Moved clips to middle groove and man what a huge difference. My recommendation to you is the following. Mix fuel 40:1. << this means 40 parts of fuel to 1 part oil. You're essentially richening your fuel to air ratio and making your jets bigger. Sync carbs with FAST Sync tool at idle and 5000 rpm. Set idle to 1500 rpms. Turn your air screws to 1.5 turns out. 27.5 pilots 290 mains To do a proper plug chop you need a fresh set of plugs and a 13/16 wrench. Warm motor up fully with old plugs. Switch to new plugs and put old plugs in pocket. Run motor WFO to the top of each gear and when you get to 6th, hold it for a couple seconds, then simultaneously pull clutch lever and kill motor. Stop safely out of the way. Pull plugs and put old ones back in. Go to your work bench and cut the entire threaded portion off your new plugs. You want a 2mm thick brown combustion ring of smoke around the base of the white ceramic.

You can try reporting it using the buttons on the right and ask a mod to delete it.

There's no way you need 30 pilots for this set-up at 3700 ft. You're 2 turns out on you air screws. If you needed 30 pilots you'd be under 1 turn out. What are you mixing your fuel with and what's your mixing ratio?

Yeah man, don't be a retard, especially if you're a noob!!

If you're gonna buy a 4 mil hotrods crank, let Cam get it for you. You can't get what he can get cheaper.

OP, you're stubborn af!! Cam only charges $250 to assemble and leak test your motor!! I got a quote from him to basically build a 4 mil dune port using my entire motor shipped to him and shipped back to me. I'm talking new clutch, new billet basket, pancake bearing, mattoon head with 2 sets of domes etc and it was only $2k ready to drop in.

I must be on the ragged edge with these mods. | RB Designs Bored Stock Carbs w/K&N Pods and Outerwears | | 27.5 pilots 1 turn out | stk needles 4th groove | 310 mains | | Chariot Timing Plate w/+4* | | Chariot Billet non-Crossover Intakes | | Chariot Billet Reed Cages w/Boyesen Stage 2 Reeds | | Toomey T5's |

I've been running 310's with all my mods at sea level to the top of 6th all the time. I've probably run 50 gallons of fuel thru the motor modded and tuned like you see in my profile.

He has FMF Fatties Boyesen Reeds Air box lid off w/K&N Why does he need 280's at 900 asl with those mods? At 50:1 with Amsoil 280's will be rich af... To the OP. Start at 280. Get bike to operating temp with old plugs. Put in fresh set gapped to .020". Bring old plugs with you and a 13/16 wrench. Run that bitch WFO in every gear to the top of 6th and hold it for a second or two. Pull in clutch and kill motor. Stop pull plugs and put old plugs back in. Ride back to garage and remove the threaded portion of your spark plug off. You want a light brown ring around the base of the porcelain about 2-3mm thick.

I told you what you need. Especially when you go to 50:1.

Never buy aftermarket jets!! Genuine Mikuni jets for Mikuni carbs only!! Try Jets R Us.com

Do that and worry about selling your Works later.

Fixed it for you. Google plug chop.

drain it and start with fresh fuel mixed 50:1

Do you still have TORS boxes on your carbs? Can you set idle to 1500rpms? Can you sync your carbs at idle and at 5,000 rpm? Can you do a leakdown test? Set floats to: Then once that's all done and puss, jets should be 27.5 pilots, 260 mains and needle clips middle groove to start. Then do a proper plug chop to check your main jets. You'll want your airscrews between 1 to 2 turns out. Chances are with 27.5 pilots you'll be closer to 1 turn out. You want the throttle to snap off idle when you crack the throttle, no bog. Bog is lean. If you find yourself less than 1 turn out, go up a pilot size.

Do this and you're done. http://atvgalaxy.com/elka-shocks-stage-3-front-and-rear-shocks-suspension-kit-sport-atv.html Sell the POS Works on ebay.