Strm Trpr

What model 35mm mikunis do you have? Did you say you're running 50 pilots?

I do a leak down test whenever I open the motor, PERIOD. I also do a squish test to make sure the squish band is copacetic. You say you raised the needles two steps. Did you lower the needle clips two grooves which raised the needles two steps? Rich Or did you raise the clips two grooves and inadvertently lower the needles two steps? Lean Either way, I'd put the needles back to the middle. What size pilots? You said you're at 4,500ft. Fresh fuel? What octane? What 2 stroke oil? What mixing ratio? What plugs? What gap? Floats set to proper height?

I know it's not exactly what you're looking for, but I have a set of Pro Taper Contour 1-1/8" grey CR Mid Bends with black clamp on ODI grips I'd let go if you're interested.

Not sure why you want to do that. Bottom-end with 14/40 > 15/40. SLP's have the torque to handle taller gearing. Going up teeth in the front sprocket or going down teeth in the rear sprocket widens your shifting intervals and if you have the power you'll gain top speed. Going up 1 tooth in the front is like going down 3 teeth in the rear. And vice versa...

SLP's have very impressive bottom-mid but sign off early. I've ridden them on a stk geared 350 dune port and it straight got up and boogied, but ran out of steam quick... Gear for SLP's and you could have a badass machine. Problem is I have no idea where gearing should be for SLP's. You're already at 15/40 gearing. That's like going down 4 teeth in the rear sprocket from 14/41. To me SLP's do not let Banshee's be Banshee's, but the bottom-end is waaayyy better than stock too, so take it for what's it's worth. Here's JD's Redline 4 mil stk cyl with SLP's and CPI's. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?/topic/175499-jdss-redline-4mm-stock-cylinder/

Just curious, how much do you weigh and what size rear tires are you running and what size paddles when you go to the sand? With the 4 mil dune port and 15/40 gearing, can you launch in 2nd gear in the sand with paddles?

Word around the campfire is to go to a 15T front sprocket when running SLP's.

Nice, well done and roost on!!

Nice, killer find!!

Fuck yeah, swoop in on that shit!!

I'm sure if you had done this, you'd have said something, but considering you found shavings under the rad cap with the oversized rad, did you catch any coolant when you swapped out the rad? And, did you flush your cooling system to remove all of the old coolant from the motor before putting the stock rad back on?

blue loctite will gum up the threads and allow you to make adjustments and you won't need a lock nut anymore, but I still use them for shits and giggles and don't worry about over tightening anymore either. The threads of the brass lock nut will strip before you damage the aluminum carb.

Aluminum 7068-T6511 http://www.matweb.com/search/DataSheet.aspx?MatGUID=1ee9c9628f9d455b97fb4606daa84bd9 Aluminum 7075-T651 http://www.matweb.com/search/DataSheet.aspx?MatGUID=4f19a42be94546b686bbf43f79c51b7d

Man, I'm glad it wasn't your water pump gear. I've always wondered about those chinese radiators. Might be worth hooking up a shop vac or compressed air and blowing thru it to see if shavings fly out...

Those are fireball long travel a arms. The paperwork says nothing about Fireball LT a-arms. The elka stage 3 fronts you have are standard length. The extended length of 373mm is only 14.68". You need a minimum of 19" for Long Travel Fireball A-Arms. You need to sell those or send them back to YGR...

My stage 5 Elka's measured 19" center to center and were straight up plug and play!!

What a arms did you get from fireball? How long are your shocks eye to eye? We're the shocks bought new and spec'd out for your riding ability, rider weight with gear on and the particular a arms you're using?

So, you're not seeing any flow with the cap off? Are you still running the plastic water pump gear? Sometimes people break those plastic gears when slipping the clutch cover back on.

NICE!!

What did you order?

I'd give $207 shipped to JD long before I'd give my money to some jack wagon on eBay for $199.90 shipped. JD will get you exactly what you need in a very timely manner!!

Fuel economy mostly.

JD, I'm gonna send you a PM.

I have a couple dumb questions. I'm retarded when comes to electrical, so bare with me. When we float the ground to convert to DC and use a new voltage regulator for the conversion, does the stock voltage regulator get replaced? This is the regulator I bought for my school conversion. http://www.ebay.com/itm/BSA-Podtronics-200W-12-Volt-Regulator-Rectifier-Single-Phase-Norton-CBS-4035-/111599849773?hash=item19fbde912d And, will this bracket work with say a 5.5 gal Clarke Gas Tank?

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