Strm Trpr

Hmmm, you've got three posts, you didn't check compression before you took it out and we're supposed to take your word it runs very well... Hell I'd offer you cash for it if I knew it ran!!

I stand corrected. I guess I should've said something like, "with the exception of his cool head dome profile".

OK, you guys could be right, but why would anyone put a cool head on and not bump up compression? My motor is old and tired kickin 120psi cold.

In his last paragraph he mentioned he had a cool head.

Impressive, but I'm wondering what you experienced guys with built motors have to say. I'm not knocking these cyls by any stretch, but is this power curve comparable to other SS 392's? Don't get me wrong, that curve looks fun as hell to ride, especially since his stock motor is damn near identical to my stock motor and mods with the exception of his added compression. And what are your thoughts on how a set of PC's would do on this motor? Everyone says T5's are lazy and PC's rev harder up the face and rev the same or better than T5's.

No shit Sherlock!! Are you fucking retarded? For that price those are not Genuine Yamaha Parts? You're building a Banshee with $4k front suspension and you're going to skimp on probably the most important parts of the steering? The Taper fits into the Knuckle and Steering Stem!! I already told you that shit fits!! The 12mm part is the threaded portion that threads into the gotdamn tie rods!! I'm out, you're on your own!!

Dude, do you read our posts?

Sweet, I'm looking at a 66mm 4mil for max mid to top end power for mashing the dunes!! I'll be in touch!!

Does anyone know if Cameron from Redline has gotten his hands on a set of Driveline cylinders yet? I'm interested in a 4mil low timing 397cc motor for mid-top power for aggressively riding dunes. I think I've got a dumb question, but I'm gonna ask it anyway. Do aftermarket cylinders have added deck height so the head/domes don't have to be relieved for the added stroke?

Did JT build a new Duner yet? I hope to be on a Redline motor by then!!

Junk... Far from it my man!!

I'll be there. It's a 5hr drive for me.

http://www.amstarmanufacturing.com/BansheeParts.html ^^^ or OEM from RMATV. << They have excellent prices and get you your parts quick. You'll need 2 inner and 2 outer tie rod ends and 4 each cotter pins and jamb nuts. Personally I went w/OE Raptor 700 inner and outer tie rod ends and associated hardware. The thread that goes into the tie rod is 12mm rather than Banshee OE at 10mm. When i bought my LT Fireball a-arms Larry suggested using the Raptor 700 rod ends and made tie rods for use with Raptor 700 rod ends..

I've seen ported 4mils run 30 pilots and 330 mains. Why are you guys jetted so fat. For instance, Toomey 2 into 1 intake and T5's at sea level run 27.5 pilots and 270 mains. But that's also 75* weather. If you're super cold at altitude, I believe it's up a main jet/20* difference in temp. And up a main jet for every 2000ft you come down in elevation.

My jetting is in my sig...

OP, are those JD Performance MGC a-arms?

Are you gonna do a 66mm bore with blaster pistons?

I've been rockin those for quite a while. Zero modification needed to shifter side and only a 12mm long spacer with a 1/2" hole and a 12mm longer screw on brake side.

I'd rock those MGC a-arms from JD Performance in a heart beat. In fact I was gonna suggest those, but it seems the OP is dead set on spending a shit ton of money on over priced a-arms, shocks, brake lines and clamps.

I did not say to use Raptor 700 tie rods. I said use Raptor 700 tie rod ends, castle nuts, cotter pins and jamb nuts. Larry at Fireball set me up with the HD tie rods for my LT a-arms.

Use OE Raptor 700 tie rod ends.They fit into Banshee knuckles and steering stem perfectly. The tie rods are bigger in diameter to accommodate the M12 threads of the larger Raptor 700 tie rod ends.

OK, are you ready for it, read the bold statement below and say it out loud so you can hear yourself say it because I've wrote this probably three times already. Have Fireball set you up with HD tie rods that use 12mm RAPTOR 700 TIE ROD ENDS and not puny 10mm Banshee tie rod ends.

Just to give you an idea of what you can get for $4k I bought the following: LT Stage 5 Elkas LT Fireball a arms Streamline 54" brake lines Streamline brake line clamps 2 pair Fireball Steering Stem +2+1 chrome Pro Taper Contour CR Mid bend ODI Rouge Grips ASV Pro Levers Fireball HD +2 Swing Arm Rebuilt Rear Shock YFZ 450R Calipers YFZ 450R MC And a Streamline Steering Stabilizer

Yes, use all Banshee suspension parts except use Raptor inner/outer tie rod ends. Fireball will build you beefier tie rods to run the larger Raptor tie rod ends. Late model YFZ rear hubs will fit Banshee axles and you'll gain almost an inch of width per side.

Stage 5 Elkas from BVC Racing. He matched ATV Galaxy and didn't charge me shipping or tax. $650 LT Fireball a-arms are more like +2.5"+1". My suggestion to you if you do go with Fireball is tell Larry or Roger that you want to run Raptor tie rod ends. They're 12mm rather than 10mm. Also when setting up your suspension, buy a cheap harbor freight digital angle finder. I installed mine straight up and measured them, the caster was 10*. You want around 6*-8* caster and around -1* of camber. Less caster = better carving. More caster = better high speed stability. The money you save not getting Roll can be used buying a new steering stem from Fireball as well. Also please buy a steering stabilizer if you don't have one. I have caster set to 6* I almost ate shit the first time going down a dune when I let my weight get over the bars. She damn near bucked me off with a violent case of speed wobbles. I got thru the weekend but it was stressful. My buddy rode her and he almost got bucked off too. Just my $0.02...