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SAVAGE420

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Everything posted by SAVAGE420

  1. Use http://photobucket.com/ to upload and post your pics of any size and it's free and takes 2 mins to sign up.
  2. Sounds like thats right up my alley. Obviously you had to tell Elka or who ever built your shocks what the measurements and what not were for the arms and shocks correct? So they can set the valving perfect. Thanx for the info also.
  3. Nice Ruko. Do you still run them? Ive been looking at them for a while now also. Just im not sure if im going that route or to a LT arm this winter.
  4. What head pipes you have to run with them? They wont line up to just any head pipes out there. What ya got?
  5. Yes the yfz spindles with help alot with no binding. Also i cant remember if your running stock offset wheels or not, but if you are it will have more bump steer than before. When i bought my ITP T9 bajas i got the rear rims with a very wide offset and got the fronts really narrow offset so that the center of the rim is as close to being over the balljoints as possible. It sits at 47 on the front with these rims and arms. Even if i went to a +4+1 arm it would just be over 50", if i did that with stock rims it would proly sit at 52-53" way to wide and WAY to much bump stear for me. Hope any of that helped
  6. Nothing gets deleted here unless its porn/span nonsense. It's better that way.
  7. Yup, you could go with a +3+1 arm and that would make it pretty plush. Or even better yet, Fireball makes an a-arm just for the 450 shocks in a +2+1 arm with the lower shock mounts outward more and from what ive heard they work really really nice and makes it much smoother. http://www.fireball-racing.com/arms.htm 4th pic down shows them. Give them a call if your interested.
  8. HAHA @ the blue ones comment Look like Burgard's. Dont quote me on that though but they look like them. What size ball joints 14mm or 16mm?
  9. Do you have these on stock arms? If so, it will ride stiff ass ****. You can try and let out all the comp on the upper adjustment on the rezzys (counterclockwise) and loosen up the nuts on top of the springs and move them up so there is 1-2 threads showing. But they will ride much better if you put them on the 450 arms.
  10. Thanx man, i guess i over looked that . Thanx for the look out
  11. Well i was jusy curious, thats all. Ive never seen or heard of them for the Banshee or RZ. Like i said, i know they have them for chain cases for sleds as ive run them. If you have a link or know who stocks them that would be great man.
  12. Ive heard some good reviews on them. If you go ahead and get some, tell us how you like them.
  13. Not to wreck your sale but the only diff in these and the non special edition ones is that the springs are yellow. Same adjustments as all of them from 04-08. The 09 YRZ450R's have the differnt shocks with the extra Hi/Lo speed adjustment. Just A FYI and good luck with the sale.
  14. Those are old FMF power core 2's with DynoJet stickers on them.
  15. Yes your rear brake is mounted wrong. Your brake stay should be pivoted back some with the round house swing arm you have. Might have to loosen or pull it apart and pivot the brake stay back some. (Thats what the caliper is mounted too)
  16. 400-550. Give them a call.
  17. WOW, if its compressing that much its proly blown or your 400lbs Adjust the comp nob at the top of the shock ALL the way to the right and that will stiffen it up some. You can also tighten down the spring at the top also with an adjustable spanner wrench, or if your ghetto, a hammer and punch will get it done. Its easier to adjust that nut with no weight on the rear susp and it hanging free with the rear wheels off the ground. You can rebuild the rear shee shock for pretty cheep also. Give the adjustment a go. Then check back.
  18. http://img28.imageshack.us/img28/8130/sheetempguage004.jpg http://img136.imageshack.us/img136/2346/sheetempguage003.jpg http://img200.imageshack.us/img200/3750/sheetempguage005.jpg Dont mine the dirty hoses Works great for me. Some people had problems with the first gen ones. Ive had no problems with this second gen one. You have to run resistor plugs and run the single wire as far away from the coil and all other shee wiring as possible AND shield the wire with electrical shielding. The electrical noise for shees makes other shit mess up sometimes and reset. No problems with mine the way i had it. Takes readings every 2-3 seconds. I like it alot. Yes i have it in the lower hose, i wanted to run it in the upper hose but there was not really enough room in front of the cooler. Ill put it up on the top hose this winter when i put the new hoses on. The gauge housing and inline probe housing is billet and the gauge is under a piece of removable lexan and is sealed in with and o-ring. It runs off a lil watch batt so no need to splice into the harness.
  19. Come on guys. Decon is trying to sell his stuff for what he thinks its worth. Don't sound to bad to me for what they are. Just leave it be.
  20. Your proly getting lean now that its getting colder out. Whats your jetting at now?
  21. Yup, like i told you earlier. Your coil is done. Same shit happened to mine 2 years ago. Picked up a brand new one from RM on ebay for cheep. no problems what so ever.
  22. I would try the 330's and do a chop.
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