SAVAGE420

Why not just take it off now and do it right the first time? You NEED to see what condition the stator is in and that means taking the flywheel off. Do it once do it right, or your going to be chasing your tail IMO.

Thats a SMOKEN deal.

Might as well if you have the tool. Or eye ball it is better then nothing. Have a peek and see.

I stick a rag between the gears..simple and effective and gets the job done with out braking anything.

Honestly, i would pull the flywheel off and have a good look at the damage. If that was mine i would be buying a new stator and pick up coil for sure...that it pretty bad man....ive only seen one that was worse ever and it was garbage. You might be able to get away with the flywheel still...but wont know till you pull it off with the proper flywheel puller. You got to make sure, that the rubber gasket under the stator cover is sealed good..i use i lil bit of RTV gasket maker in a tube and put a bead around it as well as the rubber gasket...water will never get in. But go ahead and pull that flywheel off and take a look...i would clean all that shit off with solvent or gas with a small wire brush. Have a look in the for sale...im pretty sure there is a stator/pick up coil and flywheel for cheep in there right now. Just hope its not as bad as this one lol...proly is though http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh103/fastfamily4/STATOR.jpg

More.... http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=121650

Any pics of the arms mounted?

Beau, grab DallasGDub's F.A.S.T clutch in the for sale. i dont think theres very much time on it at all. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=121530 But you still have to tell the story about your clutch

So when you say your going "big bore" You boring out the stock cyls ( not big bore) or going with a cheetah? (after market like a 72-73mm bore)

Ok, all you need to do is cut both the stupid lil nubs off the frame where them dumb plastic wings that stick off the side of the air box connect. I used a dremal with a lil cut off wheel or you can use a hack saw, takes a min per side. Simple. Plus you never need them pain in the ass tabs on the front ever again anyways.... Then is will fit in perfect. THEN on the back just get some zip straps and zip strap the plastic part to the mounts on the frame. Ive done this to a few banshees and it works great. I dont like pods as it gets wet here some rides. Where it mounts to the frame on the back when you go to use the zip straps you might have to slightly bend down them tabs just a cunt hair to make it fit snug. It fits really nice and don't move around at all.... Here are the pics. Like i said it works great in looks good also. If you don't understand something just ask me. http://img268.imageshack.us/img268/4416/airboxinstal007.jpg http://img97.imageshack.us/img97/8150/airboxinstal005.jpg http://img97.imageshack.us/img97/9017/airboxinstal006.jpg

Yes it will work easy. I run spacer and larger carbs also with a box, it moved the box back about 2", and works fine. Ill show you a pic or 2 when i get home.

TTT for what?

NONE. Not even really a diff in cooling going from stock to after market. Only reason i and probably 99% of the people go to an after market "cool head" is so we can change the domes out for different compression. Also they look good also.

Any tube will work if you can get it all sealed up.

If you want crazy bump steer and more stress on the steering/suspension, go for it, But IMO there a waist of money and like i said alot more bump steer and strees on the steering/suspension components. You want to try and get the center of the rim right over the spindles where the arms connect, this will give you almost no bump steer at all which it will ride alot better and turn better also.

Sell it to the next dummy or huck it Does nothing but crack your intake boots over time and takes up space. Put the stock x-over tube back on and call it a day.

It's nice but NO skid tabs.

Both "should" have one

Yeah you can get the star and shift pro kit from cascade. Then just mod your on shaft if you fell the need.

There on here some place... just hard to navigate where my stuff is now with the forum change. I will try and look.

Lets the shift shaft throw farther.

Here is the one i did lil while back. http://img233.imageshack.us/img233/6913/shiftshaftmod004.jpg Also run a modded star and the shift pro shift kit with the roller arm and easy spring. Shit shifts better then my buddys 450 honda now, and i never miss a shift any more + find neutral every time while the motor is running. Real good mods and simple to do and install them all. Highly recommended. Just make sure you re adjust your shift shaft position with the eccentric screw properly before you throw the clutch basket back on, or it will shift like doggy poo poo. Simple to do, and i wrote how to adjust it a few times also on here...just look for it in a few threads up or down if you don't know how. Or its in the clymers also.

First off, welcome. Second, theres about 82907328796 threads about this. Anyways get a NOSS head for 3reasons, there really effin nice, dont need to change to longer studs and there a site sponsor. Im pretty sure all BHQ members gets a 10% discount through them. You just need to know what fuel you want to run, so you can decide what domes you Need to run. Second i would get a Chariot head also.

I said it a few times before but here it is again. The screw your talking about is the eccentric screw, its like a cam, when you loosen the nut under it and turn it, it adjusts how the shift shaft grabs the star. The claws have to be set perfect with the same amount of gap on both sides or it will shift like dog shit. Says the same thing and shows pics also in the clymers. You Cant just tighten the eccentric screw down and call it good. I have pics of what all mine looks like and how to set it, but just go look at your clymers man. If you don't have one, get one. Or i guess i can show pics of mine also/. Its VERY simple to adjust and set right. You want the claws on the end of the shift shaft to have the EXACT same distance from grabbing the pins on the shift star, you need to check this when its in any gear and NOT in neutral. If you didn't set the gaps properly with the eccentric screw then do it now or it will still shift like poo poo. Do you understand what im saying about setting the shift shaft claws gap to engage the shift star properly? or you need me to huck up some pics? BTW, you can only see this with the cutch basket off again.

I have the exact same ones on my bike. What do you mean they dont line up? On the front, take your pipes off. Then screw the bolts from the inside the put the nut on the outside. TRUST ME, this will help you tons when you have to take them off then on again. Only have to take the pipes off once, but thats easy as hell anyways. Just PM me if you cant figure it out and ill show you pics of mine mounted if you cant do it. *Edit*, dumb ass just showed you a pic above. Haha ryan