JET 99

got one from fast... no leaks no problems at all... black anodize kinda takes on a purple haze after its been on awhile... but its no biggie its not a duner or show bike.. just fun as hell to ride :thumbsup:

mine was about an 1/8th of an inch from the sides of the stock swinger to the coils on the shock when i installed it.... it was close i was sweating it at first... a little bit of a bitch doing on a stand by yourself , but a ratchet strap and alittle cussing made it work... i was able to get the cover around shock and no binding through any of the travel... :shrug:

mine still is!!!!!!!!!!!!! v3's, boss intake, NOT A DUNE PORT and runs pretty damn good for a +.020 clean up bore... on 33's pwk (so without throwing names) im gonna go with someone who puts his name on the reputation of what he does for a living... he know what he is talking about or he wouldnt be so popular

i have 33 pwks per builder recomendation... .020 bore stock stroke motor. 20 cc domes. +4 timing and his all over power port (thats what he called it) it has plenty of bottom end compared to stock even with t-5's so i question them being way to big.

you checked compression yet? one would think it would be ok as its not that old,but low compression could be your problem.....

call a few builders if your really curious..... no one can answer that question better than one that has the experience of putting multiple motor packages together with different components :beer:

he aint being a dick.... i was in from 89-94...USMC i had my humvee and 5 ton liscense in the military and those black out lights arent for navigating terrain at night with just your eyeballs. go ahead try it ... you know GEORGE OF THE JUNGLE????? watch out for the f...in tree cause guess what you wont see it coming...

holeshot xcr's are six ply. i have had them for 2 years dont seem to wear like other holeshots... rode rocky trails in tennessee and ride trails in indiana with no problem... no problem with side walls as of yet.... :beer:

i second that . 6 ply is a little heavier but make a diff in the tire performance

that little needle from a bearing you found when you drained the gear oil. i think that goes down in the lower part of the clutch arm assy down inside and its actually a pin in the arm assy . my clymers is at work. i had a debate with a friend about some specs. sucks not having the bible at hand.. i have one of jeffs clutch setups and it has not failed yet...

not to be an ass!!!!!!! the radiator cools a certain amount depending on air flow versus surface area( an engineer could probable factor in humidity,barometric pressure) i am glad you trust your gauge so much.... did you have it calibrated before you installed it? i just want to watch the change in the gauge. if im haulin ass and it starts climbing and wont stop i better stop. if im in the trails and the needle goes to far im gonna shut it down.. too be honest i dont give a f... what the gauge says!! it is a more important thing to know your machine i watch the sweep of the dial and where it runs at idle warmed up versus trail ,drag or just playing.... i didnt loose a bit of anti freeze>>> thing still runs like a raped ape. jeff built a good motor. so bite me if you dont like where i put my gauge. it worked for me and on the flip side i dont know to many people that read fine print while shaggin ass down a trail. thus i said some will argue. :beer:

i am running one... after i had my motor done up by jeff. i figured good insurance on my new investment. i put mine where i could lean to the right side of the bike to see the gage (t-5s are on bike). some may argue about that position because it is the hose going to water pump. i figure if i can see it while riding it is alot better than mounting it somewhere that you have to get off to read or take something off to see. rode 70 miles in eastern tennesse. was able to keep check on temp. it was 107 deg f the first day we rode. i got hot once accord. to gauge so i shut down poured a little water over radiator 10 min later was back down to 160. got back from ride with no coolant loss. still running with no problems.... :thumbsup:

welcome to the HQ :thumbsup: . i have a 99 also... there is no diff. other than the early models (late 80s) had j-arms instead of a-arms.. the wiring plug ends have changed a couple of times over the years. stock water pump impeller needs replaced... stock rear carrier does not have grease zerk... case saver is a good thing (esp if your case isnt broke yet)... do compression check... general stuff welcome to a new addiction...

f.a.s.t. sells the esr brand.. its a nice liquid filled gauge.. i installed it right were jbooker82 installed the pick up. you just have to lean a little to the right when your sitting on the shee and waaalllaaaaa........ you know how hot your running. it isnt as nice of an install as jbooker82 :biggrin: but does do the job nicely.........

welcome to the hq..... turn your cap locks off. start by doing some research on the site... than when you get ready to start, you will have good solid questions to ask.. top end? chrome? head,cylinders,pistons and rings all chrome????? tors removal kit installs in your carbs.... where would you like to start ?????? my guess one at a time.... :thumbsup:

i figured if (2) 1/4 in holes are the weak link in my frame i probably shouldnt go as fast as i do on it...... :woot: :woot: :woot:

so do you approve or think i f---ed it up.. it works for me they were not on there when i bought the shee. i thought i had read in here a couple years ago that they magically can disappear while riding???? so why piss money away ... the stopper was only a couple bucks in the MSCINDUSTRIALSUPPLY catalog.. so i would be out 6 bucks if i bought the stuff...

i have about $00.00 in this mod. i work in a machine shop (the stuff was laying around).....all it took was my time. the rears were on there.. so i saved $22.00 to put in the gas tank... it didnt hurt a thing and the plugs line right up with the hole were your nubbins go :biggrin: :biggrin: :biggrin: sorry if you think its redneckish!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

here are some pics of the fix.... 1/8 in drill bit 1/4 in drill bit single flute chamfer tool 1/4 20 nuts(4),1/4 in fender washer(2),1/4 in flat&lock washers(2ea),1/4 20 thread rubber stopper... the (4) 1/4 20 nuts takes a wrench on top and a deepwell socket on bottom used as jam nut.. dont over tighten rubber plug use jam nuts to hold in place :biggrin: hope you guys approve!!!!!!!!!!!!

compression will bump low end, 4+ timing is a cheap mod,pipes and filter is usually first up grade(keep in mind if port work later get a set of pipes that will respond to port work)... aftermarket head will get you compression bump (your choice of pump or race gas) and cooling effect,billet water impeller(stock plastic junk)... hi comp = high octane and t+w crank. the port work, bigger carbs, intake, heavy duty clutch, ignition system upgrades...... it is endless as to how far you can go ...... welcome to your new money pit and the BHQ :beer:

me too.......... the arbor press is a wonderful tool to have ... if you have a big adjustable one you can even do carrier bearings on the rear axle..... :thumbsup:

sounds like you shoulda went to the drug store and bought some a dem dare maginifying glasses strapped em to yer 4head an ya wooda ben set. lucky we aint callin ya one eyed willy... glad your ok :beer:

ice down your boost bottle it will cool the air going into carbs...... :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao: j/k...... i couldnt resist :beer:

i bought a new stock kicker w stud and a tm designworks kicker does not include stud. i have had it since 05 no rattle yet.. :beer:

maybe a little pre mix down the sparkplug holes and let it set for acouple minutes then gently turn motor over a few times with plugs out just to make sure rings dont freeze or stick.... :beer: