80overShee

I have the old style Hush kit w/o spark arrestor in it. It is in pretty rough shape though. I also have the Cobra spark arrestors. The style that is made specifically for Toomey pipes. They replace the end caps on a stock silencer and are held in by the snap ring. If you are interested, I can send both of those, an extra arrestor core, extra end caps and both snap rings for $100 + shipping. If you need pics, let me know. Sparkies <------ Link to pic This is a VERY dirty picture of the spark arrestors....they will be cleaned up and shined before I send them out. The spark arrestors muffle the sound enough that a fresh packed silencer will pass dB check almost anywhere, even here in Michigan (strictest I know of)

Get rid of the "degree key" and get a adjustable stator plate. If you are worried about an engine failure you just added one of the parts that is MOST prone to cause it. Degree keys are famous for shearing off. Also you could lighten the flywheel.

Thats dirt cheap .......sounds to me like you paid for a BORE job....not a port job.

I already plan on doing the A-arm setup. Not sure yet whether I am going to buy an A-arm frame or do the conversion but either way, it will be done soon. I HATE the J-arm setup...anyone looking for a straight J-arm frame?

Ok, 2 things are obvious here. First off, Sheewanter had no idea that a stock shee runs 34 hp. Second off, the first few people after his second post didn't really read into what he wanted. He wants a machine that will handle anything he throws at it, not a drag racing, hill shooting man-eater. 100hp is way too much for anything to really have any fun with it in the trails. Especiallly with a 2-stroke powerband. It would be feasible on a 4-stroke but still too much to really use. He is probably best off with a good set of ported jugs, the popular bolt ons and a good set of pipes (T6's....shoulda got T5's man). Sheewanter - No one can just "tell" you what to get because no one know exactly what you want to ride and how you prefer it. Most people in here would suggest; a good set of pipes (be it T5's, FMF fatties, Rockets, CPI, PTs, etc) an aftermarket cylinder head with smaller domes (19-22cc is probably your range) a good "trail port" from F.A.S.T. or Passion a set of VF3 reed cages and reeds, K&N filter (pods or prodesign style) 28-30mm Keihin carbs (maybe a 2-into-1, depends on your preferences) +4 timing advance (modify stock or buy aftermarket plate) I'd stay away from the stroker cranks and aftermarket jugs at this point, I think you'd be more than happy with just half of those mods listed. With just the pipes, filters and timing advance you will notice a significant change in power. You might even be happy with it for a while. I say that because we Banshee guys just can't leave well-enough alone.

Is it leaning out and burning up? Check your carb boots, could be leaning out the right cylinder from an air leak and detonating it. Also might wanna check your cylinder walls, might have a lip on one of the ports that is causing a ring to catch, then break, then shoot around like a "pong" ball x ten thousand

You are my hero

They aren't "polished" they are just opened up. It looks like someone did very light port work on them. My "builder" (discount parts guy & guru) said it was a "clean up port". Not enough to really make a huge difference in any part of the powerband but shouldn't hurt anything either. Bascially they are stock.....probably some bonehead with a dremel and a spare 20 minutes while doing the top end before I bought it. I am going to do the reeds and the flywheel thing. Forgot all about the flywheel. I bought an extra over the winter for that very purpose.......duh.

You got my drift

So a head and reeds are my best bet then for useable modifications later on then?

I can resleeve later on and have it matched up cant I? Not sure if thats something I could do myself (sleeve port matching). I can do the resleeve though.

If you are going to ride really wet and muddy conditions, go with a Pro-design style adapter with K&N filter and no lid on the airbox lid. If it is REALLY wet, use the lid with holes drilled in it and the special vents (not sure who makes them) to let in more air. If it is mostly dry and you can avoid the real deep mud and water, definitely go with clamp ons. HUGE difference. Just a comparison on airflow....I had to go up 3 jet sizes on main from no-lid K&N prodesign to clamp ons. Only go with the clamp ons though if you can avoid the deep water and wont be puddle jumping at high speeds. I have learned to avoid most things and cross up to 18" deep water SLOWLY and dry out slowly before I speed up again. Make sure to have outerwears. You'll be very happy, worth every penny.

I second that, I was running T5's with airbox lid off and K&N prodesign setup and was running 290's. Lid on was running 280's. 800ft elevation Now I run clamp-ons and jetting is 4th clip on a Vitos needle, 27.5 pilot and 320 main.

For port work, judging by everyones comments in here it is going to be through Jeff at FAST or Jim at passion. If I want to go with stroker later on will am I going to have port again? The 'sailing' comment was funny, I had a feeling that was coming. Haha...to anyone that saw the "xbox wanted - best mom ever" in the pics section....maybe I can get my girl to give up her "ass cherry" so I can have a full +4 stroker 12-port Passion setup.....yep, she'd leave me for asking.

I run 320's @ sea level depending on weather. 27.5 pilots and Vitos needles, cant rember clip, I think its 4th position. Same setup except a modified silencer setup.

I run the Dynojet needles with my T5's. They are actually "Vito's" but its just dynojet stuff repackaged. My mid throttle response wasn't as crisp as I thought it should have been, no matter how I adjusted the stocker so I went with the Vito's kit. I have t5's with K&N clamp ons (huge difference btw) and +4 timing and I run 320's, 27.5 pilot and needle in the 4th clip I THINK....I am not exactly sure on the pilot and needle position, memory is not the best. Messed around with too many carbs lately. But I will say my low-mid throttle was a world of difference. I wasn't sure where to put the needle clip at first so I gave Vito a jingle. The guy is kind of a jerk but he set me up right. Also.....I don't know where you live but you will either need a Hush kit or set of Cobra sparkies to get into any state parks and meet dB levels. I have a modified silencer setup so my stuff is useless to me. The hush kit is actuallly kinda beatup (i hate it anyway) but the Sparkies are great, I need to clean them up a little but if you want them. I'll let em go for a steal if you get me before I throw them on Ebay. I'll send all the Toomey silencer stuff I have (extra insert core, 2 snap rings, 2 stock ends, 1st gen hush kit and sparkies) for $100 shipped. Thats less than I paid for the sparkies alone. PM me if you interested at all, otherwiise they are going on Fleabay.

Ok guys, I'm kinda light on the budget for this spring to be dumping it into the quad but I need some advice on what I should throw at it. I am running an 87 with a .080 over bore with a minor 'clean up port job' basically its just polished up in the intake a little. - .080 over fresh build (Wiseco - prolites and new rods) - minor clean up ort work - stock carbs - Boyesen reeds - stock cages - T5's w/ custom silencer (CBR 1000RR can=bad ass) - stock head - modified shift star - +4 timing on modified stock plate - trued/welded crank - K&N clamp-on filters - Vito's jet kit (repackaged dynojet) I have about $500-$600 to throw at it before summer maybe a little more if its something that would be worth my budgetting everything else on, what should I go with? I'm also tryin to rebuild my rocket so I'm throwing money everywhere right now. I would LOVE to have a +4 stroker but I can't afford to get it ported at the same time to match the crank. I would also love to have it ported but I want to go with a stroker later on. Is there any way of getting around this? Should I just go with new VF3 reeds, carbs and possibly head (or modify stock) until I can afford to do the full top end correctly? I hate that every setup uses different components (28pwks for mostly stock or 33pwks for ported...etc) What is my best bet? Thanks

You guys talk about needing all these mods to 'wax the 450's'. I really don't think all that work is necessary just for that task. My Shee is unported (cleaned up a tiny bit is all), stock carbs, stock reeds and I walk on 450's that don't have serious mods done to them. My friend has a 450R with the HRC kit and LRD4 exhaust and I embarrass him in drags and we are dead even in the woods. Obviously there are some places a 4-stroke is gonna pull on me but I have my advantages also. Now those dirt bikes are a different story, they are capable of 60+hp (money!) and weigh 200lbs less..thats a tough competition I guess what you need to look at is how badly do you want to smoke the quads, not 'if'. I have some of the 'bolt on' stuff and I don't have any problems with 450's that aren't cammed, piped and running high comp pistons. I'll be honest though, that Passion racing port job sounds like a winner.

I have some 34mm Mikuni's on the way......no intakes though. Interested?

Clutch is on the right side. I'm with everyone else on this one. Check the clutch and all clutch parts over with a fine tooth comb. Pull the clutch rods and ball inside the shaft the clutch is mounted on as well. Check them for wear. They can seize up if they don't get proper lube. Check the kicker gear and idler gear. If the snap ring came off it can cause strange noises. Happened on mine. Sounded just like a ball bearing being tossed around inside the clutch cover. The only other thing that could cause the noise is the bearings that the transmission shafts run on but those really shouldnt be affected by tension on the clutch, they constantly spin. Its really not that difficult to split the cases. I was a little weary of it the first time I did it also, no I practically enjoy it. Other than for the fact that there is a REASON I have to which normally means $, thats a downer. I wouldn't advise it if you aren't confident in your abilities but its really not that scary if you sit down and look at it. If you say your brother can do it, help him! Watch him, you should know how to fix your own toys. That dealership is going to charge you mega-moola. The ones around here charge $75 just for a rejetting and they don't even check to make sure its right, they guess. Im gonna bet it will be atleast $250 if its not something extraordinarily simple.

AMEN or we will ALL have ported Shees

Haha.......the answer is always yes from a guy with tools and time. Banshee with a Cbr600F3 engine <---- Link

What is the equivalent dome to .035"? I want to shave my head to get in the range of a 18-20cc range. My goal is 18cc dome, 4 degrees advance. Whats the proper octane level? I have easy access to Turbo Blue so high octane mixes aren't a problem. 6 gas stations in the area sell it. One of the only advantages to living in "Motor City"...everyone races. I dont want to 'waste' my money on a Cool Head yet. Although it is planned for the future mods.

I dont know the weight of the parts, but the weight of the Banshee is 386 lbs dry. Add about 20 lbs with fluilds.

You need to get yourself a set of feeler gauges ($5-7 dollars) and measure the gaps between the reed and cage and also between the 1rst and 2nd stage flap. I believe it is supposed to be under .005" (barely visible gap). If the gap is more than the specified tolerance, then replace them. If there are any cracks or stress marks in them, replace them. The pic you took shows the inside of the cage, for anyone to even guess at it, you need ot show the outside instead.