80overShee

A friend of mine has a head from Banshee that is cut either .075" or .080" (squish recut also). He is going to give it to me if I want it but what will the octane I need to run be? What should the compression be? I am running a 66mm bore (+.080") on a stock stroke. Thanks in advance.

Yes, you can change the domes to run pump gas. I am not sure exactly which domes for which octane but I think anything over a 21cc you can fun on 94...don't quote me on that. You will notice a small difference but it won't affect the powerband or port work all that much. You will mostly loose bottom end but you are going to notice the difference. You really should have your crank welded runnin a ported/piped engine. It might hold up but hat "might" word scares the hell out of me.

Nope....trust me, its the same setup I had last fall minus the reeds. Those only affect the jetting by one size at the most. Only on really cool days did I step up to a 310. I have clamp ons now and only run 320's and it is spot on. I check it religiously. Just try it out, whatever you think is right, go with it. I may be wrong but only you can prevent forest fires.

Ok, I don't want you to be upset with me or them. They are a great way to have use a spark arrestor. Screw that hush kit, it really sucks.

The "shift cam" is also known as a "shift star" and can be access from inside the clutch cover. A "shift drum" is what the shift forks are aligned by. It is what controls what gears your are in. The shift cam (star) just keeps it in that gear. Many people confuse the names of the parts. I was just searching on the internet for pictures and it seems to be VERY common. But I consulted a few of my parts manuals to make sure I wasn't the one that was wrong. I wasn't... This is a shift CAM or shift star. You do not have to split the cases to change this This is a shift DRUM. You DO have to split the cases to change this on a Banshee.

Now THAT would be awesome. Ok, my mind is made up

300's at the highest

I wish I still had my silencers, I'd send em too ya to make it work but i threw me out, they were pretty trashed from a hard wreck. Sorry about the fit....like you said Toomey says they should fit, they fit mine. Are you sure those silencers are from T4's and not an earlier line?

I'd agree, your main is too fat. Possibly needle also. You should be around a 290-300 at highest. Pro-Flow in the airbox is somewhat restrictive, you MIGHT even have to step all the way down to a 280. Id say needle in middle position, might even want to try out those Dynojet needles. They made a little difference in mine. Little advice...if you can keep it dry, ditch that pro-flow and get clamp-on filters. Your 320's will be perfect then, you wont believe the diffference.

How would a set of dune ported jugs hold up against a standard port cub cylinder. I'd rather smoke him with what I've got than to come to his level so he can say "well you have this amount of $ in yours, I don't". I'd LOVE cubs but I can't drop that much money on them. I listed his mods, I have mine listed in the bottom. Could I spank him or atleast hold with him if I got a good dune port (possibly Passion), some larger carbs, bumped the compression and some Vforce reeds? I realize all that together is more than the cubs.......but hey, I have a hard time dropping that kind of money on ONE item that I know I will dump more into porting and those aftermarket parts. I know if i bought cubs I would without a doubt get a +4 stroker. So its not economical to me yet.

OK....jetting advice time. Like stated before, it is most likely your jetting but could be an impeller problem. Lets check the jetting, it should be tuned anyway right? To CHECK your jetting, run flat out in 5-6th gear, throttle pegged. When you hit the run out for that gear, pull the clutch in and kill the engine. Dont let off the throttle until it dies or the clutch until it stops. Now pull the plugs (they are HOT) and swap in a spare set. Go back to your work area and check them. You need to cut the threads off to check the white ceramic area below the electrode. You are looking for a small (2mm) brown coffee colored band around the very bottom portion. If there isn't a band and the whole thing is colored white then your main jet is too lean (too small). If it is all brown or the band is more than 2mm then you are too rich (too big on main). More than likely you are too lean. The engine will also pop and back fire a little when it is running if it is too lean. Too rich and it will sputter. To CHANGE your jetting. Remove your carbs (remove airbox/filters/fuel line, unscrew carb caps) and place the carbs upside down on a clean shop rag after you dump all the excess gas out of them. Have a can of carb-cleaner or brake-cleaner handy. Unscrew the bowl (bottom of carb, 4 screws) from the carb body and pull it off carefully. If it is stuck, be careful not to ruin the gasket material, they are a pain to come by. Now that you have the bowl off, the 'main' jet is the hex-type brass piece sticking up beyond everything else with a funny looking piece of white plastic under it. Use a nut driver or socket (5mm or 6mm, cant remember) NOT a pair of channel-locks or pliers to remove the jet. Check the number stamped on the end of the jet and go change sizes (up or down respectively) by 2. They go by 10's in sizes so if you have a 250, if you are too lean, go to a 270. Reinstall everything and go for a ride. Here is the part that is a bummer.......REPEAT from beginning. That will take care of your 'main' jetting. When you get to the point that you have gone from too lean to too rich, do the process again but change the jet size by one size instead of 2. Needle - Now here is the part that is a little more 'by touch' than scientific. It is also the part that is the easiest though also. The needle controls most of your throttle range, from about 1/8-1/4 throttle to 7/8 throttle. It is pretty crucial to have it right yet it is what most people fail to adjust. The main jet only controls 3/4 to WOT. When you are riding, AFTER you have gotten your main jet spot on, if you in the mid-throttle range (not mid RPM, I am referring to throttle position) the bike feels like it is sluggish and doesnt pick up well, you may be too rich. You will want to bring the needle clip DOWN one position (more on how in a minute). If the bike pops and acts like it is going to (or does) back fire, you are too lean and need to go UP one position on the needle. What the needle does is it sits inside the main jet, when you pull the throttle, it pulls the needle out of the main and allows fuel to pass through the main jet. By moving the position of the needle in relation to throttle position, you control when and how much fuel comes through the main up to 7/8 throttle. After 7/8 throttle, the needle is completely out of the main so it has no effect on WOT, this is why you jet for the main at WOT. To change the needle position - Pull the carb caps off and look down inside the slides. You will see a phillips head screw (two?), remove the screw and pull the retainer that it held out. Now slide the cable out and the needle should fall out of the slide when tipped over. Note the position of the clip on the needle. It is what determines the height of the needle inside the carb. If you are too lean on the needle, you need to bring the clip UP one position (or 'lower the needle), if you are too rich then go DOWN on position (or 'raise the needle') The screw on the side of the carbs is your air screw, it only effects the very lowest of your throttle range. Should be about 1 1/2 turns out but depends on your mods. Hope this helps you out, jetting is the one thing EVERYONE with a 2-stroke should learn to master. When you are mechanically inclined or not, you should learn how to recognize your jetting issues, it will make your bike run much better....MUCH longer.

Yep. You need to be able to realign the shift forks and since there is no outside access to the transmission other than by splitting the cases.....yes, you have to. Thats the one bad thing about a 2-stroke...on a 4-stroke you can just take off the oil pan, slide the shift forks out of the way, slide the shift drum out and reinstall the new one. Oh well, the pains of a 2-stroke are worth it. Let us know how you like that Yakkey drum, I am intersted in getting one if they smooth the tranny out like they claim. Wait...........shift CAM or shift DRUM.....I didnt know there was a Yakkey shift CAM. If it is just a cam, then you do not have split the cases, just take the screw out of the cam that holds it to the drum, thats all. What I wrote at the top is for a shift DRUM.

There are lots of places in Michigan. There is; Magic Racing in Pontiac (or somewhere near there) Vitos Performance in White Lake www.vitosperformance.com Grand River Racing near Grand Rapids somewhere www.grandriverracing.com RB Porting (think thats the name) in Lansing (cant find his #) Iron Dog Racing near Flint (my friend and builder, VERY good prices) 810-241-7101. Give him a call and tell him Jeff Penrod sent you. I wouldnt take my machining work to ANYONE else There are lots of others....thats just off the top of my head.

Read the topic "HOW THE HECK DID THAT BREAK" and read along. Mine did the same exact thing when that happened. Pull your clutch cover and inspect the clutch push rod. You may have to pull the basket to get a better look. Make sure the whole clutch pushrod system is moving freely. If it is, tip the bike on its side and tap the stator side with a rubber mallet so the pushrods fall towards the clutch, then try to pull the clutch arm out. If they dont move freely, you have a welded pushrod-to-shaft problem and it is probably stuck in so that the clutch arm won't pull beyond it. It has about a 1" notch so just under 1" of play is about right (or wrong, depends on how you look at it). By the way.....if it IS welded, it is REALLY welded and you won't just drive it out or drill it out, trust me......been there. Good luck

This happened to me. I doubt it 'broke'. Its a 3 piece system. ~6" rod - ball bearing - 2" threaded push rod. Mine welded itself to the transmission shaft. Had to replace the whole thing. The shaft is about $80. You won't pull it out with a magnet or push it out with air pressure. If it feels like you lost your clutch then its not moving at all so it is welded, otherwise it would move back and forth from the pressure on teh clutch springs. Time to split the cases and tear those gears off. Its not really all that hard though. Just take your time and when you order your new shaft (strictly Yamaha dealer part) place all the parts from one shaft to a table in the EXACT orientation you remove them and then place them on the new shaft in the same fashion. Be careful not to turn the snap rings over the wrong direction, most people dont realize that snap rings are directional. After having the cases split, it only took me about 2 minutes to do. It is an easy job, the hardest part is just getting to it.

Ok, I have been having this arguement with a friend of mine about a friends Banshee. The guy wants to throw a Cheetah Cub on his Banshee and leave it at that. Now he hasn't specified anything other than that so I assume stock porting on the cheapest style Cheetah there is. I dont know a whole lot about what is available so I am gonna play ignorant on that one. Anyway, I've read about what almost everyone on here does with Cubs and it seems that aftermarket carbs are a must. He says that stock carbs will work just fine, they provide plenty of air/fuel to supply the cubs. Now I, whole-heartedly, disagree. The stock carbs hardly supply enough to a slightly modified engine, how will they be sufficient for a cub cylinder?! Can someone straighten me out here. I am telling him 33PWKs are probably the choice on this one. ??? He says stock carbs are fine, maybe just bore them to a 28....I doubt it. His mods are - Coolhead 20cc domes, FMF Fatties, +4 timing, clamp on filters, .060 bore (like that matters now), stock porting I also told him those FMF's are gonna have to go Oh, his main type of riding is 300' drags. He rides all types but he lives for the drags.

HAHHAA, everybody has been there a time or two. If you havent you don't own any tools or any toys.

Bore the carbs to a 28mm - adds a little ooomph Mill the stock head .025" - adds a little more ooomph (compared to stock) Port the jugs to suit your riding style. - adds a LOT of ooomph Ditch the thunder pipes..Ive never heard of em. Getcha some SHearers, Rockets, CPIs, T5's or possibly (dare I say) some FMFs. - add even more oomph

I've been thinking about doing the same thing. As far as the 4mil stroker setup goes. Here is my plan. Get the stroker and throw it in. Ride it til I can afford a passion port and send them jugs out to be babied to my liking. There is no better thing you can do to a Banshee (or any 2 stroke) than to get the port timing correct for your riding. Seriously, to take a 32 hp engine, add a better filter, pipes and port it and hit 64 hp is UNREAL. Throw in the 4mil and go up to 75hp....how can you say porting 'ruins' it? Porting is the key. Here is the best example I know of. At Silver Lake Sand Dunes there is a kid that runs an 04 or 05 Banshee that looks totally stock. Stock EVERYTHING, looks like it just rolled off the showroom floor. He is about 12-13 yrs old and he spanks everyone out there. Everyone says "oh, he is only 100 pounds, thats a huge advantage". Here is the truth, his dad had the jugs ported, advanced the timing and bumped the compression on the stock head. Dont think he stroked it but its possible. Long story short, that engine pumps over 60hp on stock pipes. THATS why he spanks people......60hp plus a little 100 lb rider. Porting is the key to a Banshee engine. Damnit, I wrote a novel again....why do I always do that

wow....410's are HUGE. My mods are in my sig and I run 320's. VF's and port work jumps it 10 jet sizes? You might be a little small on that pilot there. You are fat on the needle and fat on the main, seems odd you run stock pilot.

Highly doubtful that you get 4 hours of riding time on one tank of gas. Banshees are, by no means, fuel efficient. I get about 1 1/2 - 2 hours ride time on a tank depending on riding. If its full tilt drag racing and dune riding, maybe an hour. Light trail riding, might push 2 1/2. I miss the days of my old 4-poke utility quad running ALL day on 4 gallons....HA ya right, dont miss it a bit.

Thats kinda how I was gonna play it. Thanks

I bought a set of Lonestar Racing D-arms on Ebay and one of them is kinda FUBAR. I seem to remember something about Lonestar having a 'no questions asked' replacement warranty on their products. Is this true? It would be great if they replaced the bent arm with a new one, even if I had to pay a small amount. Anyone know?

but on 89 octane?! I would think it would have 18cc domes or smaller running 110 to be hitting those numbers. No way should 89 ever be run anyway.

Is this guy off his rocker or what? 95 HP possible on stock stroke........at 89 octane!!!!?!?!! Ebay engine I hounded him pretty good in a message. I just think he is full of BS and his dyno sheet is from some other engine....doesn't list the type of carbs or pipes either......95.4 on stock stroke ......BAH! Granted it might be an awesome engine, capable of being in the high 70's low 80's on HP but NO WAY at 95.4?