80overShee

Easy for us to say cuz we are not on the wallet end of this deal but its really really a no-brainer....REPLACE THEM! When in doubt, get the credit card out!

The dreaded suggestion......."time to split the cases" Take the shafts out and make sure the stationary gears are sliding back and forth on the splines so they lock on the rotating gears (sorry if I don't know the technical terms) If they arent, you may have to disassemble the shafts and find the problem there. If the gears ARE sliding, you have a problem with your forks or drum. Check the star and move it with a pair of channel-locks (carefully!) and make sure it shifts ok. You may have to give the forks a VERY small jiggle to get it to slide without proper lub. If you take your time, there really isnt any reason to be afraid of splitting the cases. I know I was the first time, after I had it apart, I almost think its fun to have it apart (other than for spending $ and not being able to ride). There isn't much to a Banshee tranny, if you tear it apart, its not hard to find problems, there is only really 4 main components. Shift drum, shift forks, and 2 shafts with stationary and rotating gear assemblys. Other than that, everything is contained in the clutch case. But remember.......even if you find the problem, there is ALWAYS a reason it happened, look for the reason, fix the reason rather than the problem or you will be back again. Example... Your clutch is hard to pull. Instead of checking the torque specs on the clutch springs, you adjust the cable or get a longer clutch lever and sooner or later you destroy your entire clutch. Had you just checked and seen taht your springs were torqued too high, you would have saved $... Fix the cause first, or you'll fix the problem again.

Could try drilling it out for in a 'cross drilled rotor' fashion. It may relieve enough outward stress that it straightens out. I believe a CBR 900 rotor is the exact same size and is a cross drilled rotor although the thickness is different. I checked against one and it matched. I plan to cross drill mine for heat dissapation and sand/mud clearning in the near future. Drilling it out in numerous areas at a regular interval might just relieve enough outward stress that the cup of the rotor flattens out. Worth a try if you ask me. I wouldnt run on a cupped rotor at high speeds.....I'd rely on the fronts entirely (unless you have a wheelie comp)

I figured it all out... ...I feel like Sherlock Holmes after looking at this one. Here is the run down. A few weeks back when I was rebuilding (didnt replace clutch) I found a broken fiber. On a budget , I only replaced that fiber and went on my merry way. This weekend up at the dunes, the bike shifted pretty hard, clutch felt funny and the 3rd to 4th was almost impossible in a drag. I didn't think anything serious of it, just needed to replace the clutch since it was moderately worn. Then tranny oil (5w30) smoke starts coming from the exhaust (right side first, then left) and blowing into the carbs/reeds. I try to make it back to the truck and the clutch gives out entirely. I cracked the clutch case to see a fiber entirely shattered and spread throughout the tranny and I put it up for the weekend......here is what I figure happened. Let this be a lesson to all who are on a budget........WAIT or you might have to be towed in by a damned Honda...what an insult A fiber broke while I was drag racing and a piece or multiple pieces lodged themselves into the forks and drum. After a few minutes of running hard in the drags a few more pieces hit the crank seal and destroyed it. The tranny oil entered the crank case and was burned off/spit out of exhaust and intake. On the way back to the truck, it burned off enough oil that the fibers got hot and glazed over. Once enough oil escaped the rest of the fiber was ejected (after I ragged on it tryin to get it back) and the clutch gave out entirely. After looking at the whole thing, this is my best guess (whew, no cracked case) even though the guy who gave me direction in building it, since it was my first 2-stroke told me there is no way it could be the seal since it was seated correctly and brand new. The seal was trashed from a fiber. Must have had 4-5 oz of 5w30 in the crank case. Now that I have spent about $150 on gaskets, clutch parts (Barnett Kevlar) and a few other little thing it should be back in running shape tomorrow. I just wrote a novel. ......I'll make it a magazine instead by postin the pics tomorrow on my "photobucket" page with all the SLSD pics. http://photobucket.com/albums/b16/BansheeNUB/Silver%20Lake

I used the same thing on my caliper bolts that hold the brake pads in. I've had the set of extractors for about 3 years and never even opened the case. I used it one time, it worked perfect and paid for itself right there. Only buy the best, I love Craftsmen

I have a bunch of video and a few shots of the kid smokin people. He was pullin 4-5 lengths on everyone but the full out drag bikes! He was only 12 and weighed about 60 lbs. I went and checked out his Shee, nothing done to it at all except a tach put on it, he would peg that thing waiting for the flag to drop every time! Him and his older brother (about 15) both had brand new Shee's, bone stock. I don't know if I have any exclusive shots of you on your quad, you'll have to look through, I know there were like 3 quads that looked a little like yours so I am not sure which was which. I know I have you on video though, definitely have you on video running the flag. Check my pics, I have about 2/3 of them up as of right now and hoping to finish them tonight. Those flags are junk btw, I bought a flag mount for my tow hook on my truck so I could drive out on the dunes and it broke after about 3 hours of flingin the flag. Thats the main reason I stopped other than being bored as hell with it.

You'll have to check my pics later when I get them all done. Was your Shee black and yellow? I think I remember seein you running the flag until about 10-11 am. After that some dummy with a 400ex was running it.....he sucked. Didn't even let the lines stage up, he'd only get 3-4 bikes racing at a time. I had 30-40 quite a few times

Ya, I blew mine up on Friday out there doing some drags. I was smokin fast too... Anyway, I was there all day on Saturday takin pics and runnin the flag at the strip. I'm posting pics right now, up to about 100 or so with about 200 left to go. http://photobucket.com/albums/b16/BansheeNUB/Silver%20Lake/

I went to SLSD this weekend for the 4th of July....AWESOME TIME if you don't count blowin up my Shee after being there for all of 2 hours ON FRIDAY! Anyway, I took like 300+ pics and a few hours of video since I didn't have much to do. If you were drag racing, I probably got a pic of you. I was running the flag for the drags from about noon til 6 or so on Saturday from my S-10. I have posted about 80 or so pics, mostly of the parking lot checkin bikes out or at the drags. Look for yourself in the pics if you were there, no matter what you were riding/driving. I will be posting the rest of them as soon as I can find a few hours to let them upload since I can only do like 10 at a time......takes forever. If I had a place to host video I'd get that uploaded as well, but that takes up a lot of room. Tell me what you guys think! And let me know if you see yourselves, if you don't check back, I have LOTS more to upload (another 250 or so) whoops, almost forgot the link PICS! clicky clicky here

Silver Lake Sand Dunes trip here is a few of the pics I have uploaded, there are still like 250 more but it takes FOREVER to upload that many so I am doin it in steps

Who is A&S? I live in MI (near Flint) and have never heard of them. Grand River is kind of a big name when you get near Silver Lake dunes but there aren't any big names in my area other htan "Magic Racing" and "Vitos" which are both made famous by 'Dirt Wheels'

I think I might even have a 'photobucket' thing already It'll be done! I'm splittin the cases tomorrow. Woulda done it today but its "beer and blow shit up" day. Although I did so some stunt riding at a friends before the fireworks and did some wicked stuff on a 250ex...dummy running my camera is.....well...... a dummy. There were 3 of us doing a stunt show in the road and he didnt get but about 5 seconds on video.....pathetic. My friend was racing his fresh bought and just rebuilt Blaster against the 250ex. He was getting blown outta the water at the holeshot but would walk it down. He was all disappointed. "Gimme that thing, I'll show you how to put a Honda in its place", I'd get 6 lengths outta the hole on it and I weigh 40lbs more than him! I reaffirm the saying "Its all in the rider". He was impressed then, and really happy when I blew the 400ex out by 2 lengths outta the hole, got walked down though, geared too low. Ya, that lil kid on that Banshee RIPS, I have video of him blowin out stoker Shee's, full drag YFZ's, 520 big bored 450R's and a few custom built three wheelers.

So I was riding the Silver Lake Sand Dunes on Friday (first day of 3 day trip) and after about an hour of riding my pipes start blowing some blue smoke that smelled of motor oil, not premix. So I run back to the trailer to check everything out and my oil level was low, but not drastically. So I figure maybe a small seal leak, no biggie, I'll rebuild when I get home. Apparently it was larger than I thought and after I refilled the oil it all went to the crankcase ( I assume) and drained the clutch cover and tranny completely. I noticed this by the feel of a clutch that had no grab at all. Get back to the truck after I thought I had smoked my clutches and worn them out since they were already in need of replacement. Pull the clutch cover and hundreds of tiny pieces of clutch fiber come out in the oil.... One of the fibers literally shattered. Time to split the cases (second time this month) and check that seal and get all those fragments out.........FRIGGIN BANSHEE! Oh, I have about 325 high-res pics from "The Dunes" of some seriously wicked Banshees doing drags and high climbs and all sorts of other stuff if someone could point me to a place where I can host lots of pics, I'll link em up. This 10 yr old on a bone stock 05' Banshee was spanking everyone that wasn't running alcohol, it was cool as hell!

I can tell you this about the pipes. I did some asking around and from what I am told, FMF pipes (except SST's) will bolt up to the Toomey stinger pipes. I have T5's and I was looking to try out FMFs to see the difference so I checked around. I haven't actually done the fit personally but others have and they said it works. What do you mean about the wiring bypass? Are you trying to keep your headlights always on or always off or trying to put in a different type of switch? Need some details on what you are looking to do.

OK, you guys help out a lot! I just finished moddin my stock timing plate (aftermarket didnt arrive in time) and have a few more mods in mind before I go with the 28's or 30's. First on the list is a coolhead (get em for $190 w/ domes!) and about the same time gonna get my flywheel lightened. Probably given Boonman a call for that one. Jeff from FAST is gonna be suckin in some coin from me also for an FZR setup. One day I'll be fast I cant believe the difference in just how the rpms climb after changing the timing. Its 12:30 so its a little late to hit up a road ride or hit the trails in the yard....neighbors dont like it at 12:30pm, I can only imagine 12:30am.. OH, anyone hitting up Silver Lake Sand Dunes this weekend? There will be a group of 5 of us there from Fri/Sun......ALWAYS willing to race Thanks again guys

HAHHA........80.......... Im in flipping Michigan and its been mid 90's all week. TRY THAT with 90% humidity..... Theres an old saying in Michigan "if you dont like the weather, just wait five minutes"......mine is "When riding in Michigan keep jets in your pocket" You MI people know exactly what Im talkin about

Who is a good company/person to go with on woods/trail/fun porting? I have hard of Patriot, Gorr, F.A.S.T., Trinity and JB (they are lesser known, but local). I also know the guy that does all the Vitos porting work, well, sorta a.k.a. "Bancheedoctor" on Ebay (races for Vito himself, his banshee was the bike in Dirtwheels setup for the Baja backup Shee). If I werent to go with 'Vitos' job, who would you suggest? I prefer to stay away from Trinity but I hear Gorr is good and Jeff from FAST is supposedly very good as well (and easy to deal with) The only thing that bothers me is that I am on .080+ bore right now, I have 1, MAYBE 2 bores left, I dont want to waste a ~$400 on a port job that will only last two good hard ridden seasons. If I resleeve I have to report as well correct? Or would I be able to clean that up myself. Im not clueless, Im just new to porting, I know my way around the machine shop very well.

You aren't "getting" more power from a clutch. You are "putting more to the ground". Its like drag racing cars. The guy with the better clutches and softer slicks is going to put more power to the ground (most times). That is in all actuality what racing is. The more torque you and apply to the ground, the more ground you will gain. The idea beind the better clutch is it grabs harder, faster and KEEPS holding. Some stock clutches slip a little when the power band hits and you don't even notice it unless you know how your bike handles exactly. Your clutch will not affect how your bike runs or your powerband, only how well it links the tranny to the crank.

Thanks Rocket. What should I expect to notice the difference in with 28s or 30s (which is better for future porting)? I am looking for more low end, as per my pipes suck in the low end. On that note, what is a good all around trail pipe. I do LOTS of different styles of riding (drag, dune, trail) but trails seem to be using up the most of my gas (liquid gold these days). The T5's seem to hit a bit hard in the upper mid range, and I am getting popeye forearms from clutching so much to keep the powerband in range. Will Fatties be OK? Or is there some lesser known pipe with a good low end. I was looking into Rockets last week, I actually fell asleep on an Ebay auction where the pipes went for $92...bah!..(black, but im not in this for the show). Thanks guys

I realize checking Ebay motors will yield a few results on carbs but I need to know what bikes have which carbs. Not how much they will cost me on Ebay. Such as; 250R uses a 34mm PJ Keihin an LT250 uses a 38 PWK (so I've read, but that sounds wrong) an LT250 Ozark uses a 29mm BSR Mikuni..... anyone know what uses a 30-32mm Keihin PWK or even PJ? They wouldn't make them if something didn't use them. I've done a lot of checking (short of calling people and bothering them) and I can't come up with a solid source.

I have a few places where I can get carbs pretty dern cheap. I just need to know what bikes or quads use a size carb I could use. Like I know (or I'm told) that the 250R uses a 34mm Keihin. I am looking more in the 28-32 range. My main type of riding is trail riding, FAST trail riding so I need something with a good punch in the low end. I would go out like everyone else and buy a set of 2 retail but I can get an unbelievable price on used carbs but they have to be stock on some other model. What would any one suggest? I have T-5's right now but looking into FMF Fatties or somethin similar cuz of the horrible low end of the T-5's. The top end punch of the T-5's does nothing but break my rear end loose or lift my fronts and send me flying into the weeds/trees and one fence. Other than that, its mostly stock, adjusting the timing next week and getting a cool head (best dome size?) Might go with clamp-on pods also, I have the pro-flow K&N w/o the box lid but I tried the pods and WHOA did it make a difference. Kinda leary about water/mud on the trails though.

I've been told that the Fatties are the best. Also have been told that hte SST's are junk but I can't say how confident I was in that comment. I also just remembered that FMF also made a "hi-rev" pipe. There is actually one set on Ebay right now (cheap too) from J & R racing I believe. As for the rust, get some Muriatic acid from a hardware store and spray/wipe it on the rust. It will eat it right away then wash the acid off with LOTS of water and dry it quickly. Besure ot get all the acid and water because it will actually cause rust if you do not. Muriatic acid is also known as 30% Hydrochloric acid or HCl Muriatic acid info/help

I was just looking for the site where I read it but I can't find it. I read that boost bottle is nothing but a gimmick. The balance between the carbs does not need to be any more efficient than the stock crossover tube. The site was from a major company (FMF or Toomey) that was explaining the reasons why certain mods effect the Banshee in the manner they do. So in a longer way of saying what everyone else did......NO BOTTLE

I would have said that the problem came from the loose plug. Obviously a loose plug is going to cause a lean condition due to an air leak. The real question is, what actually caused the loose plug? I'd say make yourself a plug lock (weld 2 - 13/16 box end wrenches together) or buy an aftermarket one.

If I remember correctly, they made 4 different FMF pipes for a Banshee. They are the "Gold Series", "Fatties", "Gnarlies", and "SST's". I am not sure on the power differences among them, but I know they are different.