80overShee

I just did a rebuild on a friends blaster and rejetted per Vitos instructions. It was a Pro Circuit Platinum and Vito's said to jump up to a 250. I put the 250 in and went with his needle specs. I wasn't there for the break in period but my buddy called me up and said it had 'zero' power in the top end so they went down to a 230 and it ran "like a raped ape". I think it might be a size to low but who knows. I rode it for a few minutes and it revs out in the top so I think it might be a size too low but I'll find out next week when he returns from vacation. The only mods it has is the pipe. No aftermarket filter and stock airbox config. He has much to learn. I was pretty impressed by that little "blastard" when I rode it and raced against a 250ex and absolutely stomped it by 6 lengths off the line and kept pulling very hard. Next I raced a 400ex and took it by about 1 1/2 lengths in a 200 yd race. Not too shabby for a 200cc puddle jumper. That 290 just sounds huge to me especially at that elevation. Get a fresh plug and try a high rev run-out again and check the ring. My guess is you are very rich at 290. Stock is a 230 btw, unless the dealership put a 220 in it, which happens. My Banshee had 190's!! Stock spec is 220.

Total waste of time. The only reason some people have them is it is a little more chrome to show off. My suggestion.....sell it on Ebay for about $20, its junk but people think they are cool. I know there were about 10 people that told me they "make a huge difference" me-"but have you tried one" them-"well.......no, but I was told though" I read on (I believe Toomey's) a site that the boost bottle is nothing but a gimmick like the "chip" you can put in your car that is sold on Ebay for about $10. The real one from the big names ($150+) is the real deal, but the others are a gimmick. Just my $.02

VERY good idea. Maybe we can get it loaded up as a 'sticky' in the suspension forum. The best suggestion would be is feedback on how it rides compared to stock. I have heard that the YFZ shocks suck compared to almost all other rezzies. I haven't ridden a YFZ so I can not be a source of solid info. On the other hand, I have ridden a few TRX 450R's and if I can get a set of those rezzies and make em fit.....OH BABY! They are excellent. I race a friend of mine in the my trails (very very tight trails) behind the house, I stomp him hardcoreand he is a great rider also. I stomp him until we get to the whoops and one squared edged ditch. He floats right over it while I scream "OHH MY BACK!" And my entire quad bounces up in the air for about 50 feet. By then he has taken off and I have to catch him again. Stock suspension sux

How much did you want for the RZ shift forks?

I've heard that removing the cross-over tube can improve throttle repsonse. Is this true? I realize boost bottles do absolutely nothing but what about the opposite direction of expanding link and instead removing it entirely?

a few friends of mine are headin up. One with a Shee and the other two with some crazy fast YFZ's. I might go up for Saturday but not sure yet

WORD Vitos pistons are Wiseco with the intake ports enlarged to match the ports in the cylinder

Very possible, especially after milling the head. Engine Ice does a great job of lowering your operating temp. In order of those 3, I'd pick; Port Job, Cool Head, Radiator.

Most places charge anywhere from $40-50 per cylinder. A friend of mine that runs a small engine race shop (mostly sleds and dirt bikes) does them for $35 per cylinder and will match to the pistons if you prefer also.

Thanks for the heads up on the Dirty D's . There is also "the mounds" not far from me. Only about 15 minutes or so. 200 acres or so, 12 of it nothing but a sand pit for playing in. Its a decent place to ride for $7 a day or $30 for season. There are also a few places near "Midland" that are supposedly kick ass but i havent ridden them yet so thats still up in the air. We could get a Banshee Mini-fest for Michigan goin for some point this summer. I would love to have a bunch of 2-strokers that smoke anything that tempts them all in one place . There are quite a few places, someone name a place and time and it might be arranged......btw.....I have a cabin about 10 miles from the Leota trailhead. They are some very tight, wooded, rough, whooped trails that no one but the serious riders can hit hard and fast... ...all 55 miles of em. Very fun unless your break down........damn Shees'

So if I get JUST the forks and rods then I will have the parts I need? There isn't some seperate 'bearing tip' or some cracked out part that is impossible to find? I can get ahold of RZ forks pretty easily actually, just wanna make sure I am not wasting my time

I cant remember where, but I read that before also. "Only you can prevent forest fires" type of statement but it is entirely true. I realized this today when a "friend" asked if he could "borrow" my Shee for the weekend to ride while on vacation. He is notoriously hard on everything and I wouldnt let him borrow a baseball bat I use for clobbering groundhogs (just an analogy). I started thinking...."what would HE break that I wouldnt" (everythign) I am not trying to say that he rides harder than I do, but he rides differently and mostly incorrectly......and doesn't give a rats @$$ since its not his. You woudn't let someone else f*** your girl, why woud you let em f*** your Shee.

NO, thats not normal. Check your water pump impellar and seals and check your radiator for flow. A Shee will get hot at idle but not that quickly since it is "partially" water cooled. A water cooled system that relies on air cooling to cool the fluid will overheat or heat up substantially when idling since no air is flowing through the cooling fins of the liquid heatsiink (radiator). If yours is overheating very rapidly, check your coolant flow first then check your jetting. At idle you shouldnt have overheating due to jetting but it is always a possibility

I think I found a few pics of you. Check your PM's, I sent the links

SWEEEET, consider me in the hunt for forks

Mud is an acquired taste but once adjusted to.....it is a delicacy. Where abouts from Michigan are you guys from? Where do you ride? I am from NEAR Flint (not flint, flint is horrible) and might be hitting Silver Lake again this weekend. Anyone goin?

I just torqued/Yamabonded my cases so I can't pull it back apart to check for you and dont remember exactly which are stationary and which are rotating. Best way to check is to put both shafts back in the lower case half lined up on the forks. Notice where the forks slide the gears. If a gear that slides meshes with the gear in question on the same shaft, it SHOULD rotate. The sliding gears are the stationary ones. Although I do believe there is 1 gear amongst them that is an exception. I will try to get around to checkin my Clymers and verify that shortly. I'll also post a few tranny pics on my 'photobucket' sometime tonight or early morning. Look on there and tell me exactly which gear after I upload later if you havent solved the problem.

So just throwing a set of RZ forks on the shaft will make a noticeable difference?

They run better when packed properly. I've repacked mine twice already since summer began but I think I am doing it incorrectly. I believe I read somewhere that they should be repacked every 20-30 hours of riding time. Lets face it, its a Banshee, you rebuild more than that.

Im looking to make the tranny on my Shee just a little more fluid-like and always more reliable. I've seen that people are using the shift forks and drums for RZ's.....whats the difference? Is there really any advantage to this and what EXACTLY is it?

Here is what I found out today that may be old news to you boys.....shouldn't be letting this cat out of the bag until I get mine but here goes. The 74-78 YZ 125's use a 34mm round slide Keihin. The intake from these bikes match the bolt pattern to the Banshee and the angle is correct. The problem is there is no way for a 'cross over tube' but remember....if something came as a stock part its almost always cheaper to find it that way rather than aftermarket. To buy the boots alone as NOS parts, they are about $60 each but bolt up to the cylinders without reason for aftermarket parts. The intake boot has a prefix of "401" that signifies the 74-78 generation. Thought I'd pass that along to anyone that might be interested.......shhhhhh Time for Ebay and ATV junkyards baby!

Yep, your gas mileage sounds about right. I get about 1 hour of HARD trail riding (MX style) out of a one tank where as my friends 400ex and anothers 450R use less than a gallon each. BUT.....I stomp the hell outta them. You gotta pay to play and when you play hard, you pay big.

It makes sense but I doubt its 4mph and you certainly can not "feel" the difference. You can only "feel" acceleration and those big ol stupid fenders hardly hinder your acceleration until very top end. I cut mine and it "seemed" faster to me but I only noticed 1.7 mph gain on my GPS and it was also 10 degrees cooler that day compared to my comparison day. Hard to say

I run Yamalube 32:1 and change according to temperature. A little hotter outside and I run a little more oil, little colder and less oil. Its basically the same as rejetting to keep your air/fuel mixture constant. Only change your mixture if you are running high quality oil....hell, dont run anything other than a high quality oil. I am swapping out to Amsoil Saber after I run out of the the Yamalube (3 qts left) to see how well it checks out. I figured (dont remember exact numbers) that running Yamalube at 32:1 and Saber @ 80:1. Yamalube mixes 8 gallons per quart and Saber makes 20 gallons. Yamalube is $6.30 a qt and Saber is $8.99. It costs 45% more but goes 150% farther and supposedly lubes better, is smokeless and has the best "2-stroke smell" of any oil besides Klotz... There isn't a better smell than a bunch of 2-strokes running Turbo-Blue mixed on Klotz...

I had the same exact problem. I traced every ground and cleaned them all up very well. Cleaned up every connection and jumpered my key to always "ON" (open) and I have never had a problem since. Double check that TORS crap. I just rebuilt a Blaster (waste of time) and it took 4 days to figure out that the TORS sensor in the thumb throttle was shutting the spark off......STUPID And its not like it has been eliminated in newer machines. My friends 450R shuts down if you hit the throttle very fast from idle. It just flat out dies instantly...VERY irritating Good luck, electrical always sux