80overShee

I think I might be done spending loot on the Shee for this summer, I've already dumped about $4k into it from the start. Unless I come across some good deals, I met my goal......SMOKE THAT "R"! I do actually have a set of Trinity pipes (pipes only) on their way that I got for an excellent deal. I bought them just to resell them but might have to give em a shot. Anyone ever used em?

VERY clever.....I think mine might get somethin of that sort today.... I have kind of the same problem. cool cool. But mine will be polished

There is your culprit. Time for some new boots. Money says that if he sprays carb cleaner or starting fluid near the intakes (not filters) he will get a little surprise.

Yep, your friends don't have a clue and you were right to ask for help here instead of relying on them. A stock bore and port with a fresh top end should be in the 125-130psi range @ sea level. 120 psi sounds about right because of the elevation but I am not sure how much the .030 mill increases compression. I seem to remember (not positive here) that a .030 mill job is pretty close to an aftermarket head with 20cc domes. I might be off on that but I think I read is somewhere. I know my buddy with 20cc domes on a fresh top end, .060+ bore, stock port is running 165psi @ sea level. You might be a little low but I wouldn't worry about it, doesn't sound drastic enough for a rebuild yet. Now your friend that was running 80psi (should go up to about 105 with new tester if it was accurate) might need a rebuild sooner than later if that is stock port work. If 80 psi were enough to run a Banshee, you could literally start it up by pushing the kicker with your hand instead of kicking it

I guess it is possible that it could be your pilot. Now that I think of it I did a complete Vitos jet kit. It would start first kick every time without ever using the choke but ran like a champ until it got warm and wouldn't start. I rejetted and went to a 30 pilot, new needle and 310 mains and never had a problem again. Now I have to choke to the first click on any day less than 90 degrees. 2 clicks for under 65. You needle and mains could be perfect but everytime you let off the throttle you could be loading it up (0 - 1/8 throttle) then burning it back off with a wide open hot run. Just for kicks.... after you have to pull start it once, as to know you are in the range of a fouled plug or such. Run it wide open for a little ways, on a long straight trail or road or something, for about a 1/2 - 1 mile and kill it like you were doing a hot plug run. Hit the kill switch with it pegged full throttle then pull the clutch. See if you can kick it over like this. Its possible that after idling you are fouling the plugs out due to small pilot.....maybe I am way off, just tryin to think of something other than electrical. Because that is all hit or miss it seems.

I had this same exact problem. I mean exactly. Here is the messed up part..... I don't know how I fixed it After running for 15-20 minutes it just wouldnt start any more. I did a compression check and it was somewhat low (just before I rebuilt) but not drastic. Here is what I did.... 1. Checked all electrical connections, cleaned them all very well with contact cleaner or a terminal brush 2. Scraped all grounding points with a wire brush as well as the ground wires 3. Check stator coil output and resistance specs. Ignition coil wouldn't give me a good reading so I bought an extra....never put it on 4. Rejetted to a high main, I think it was running too hot and was causing low compression when warm, that probably wasn't the main cause but it could have contributed. It was definitely overheating, rejetting fixed this. Took the flywheel and stator off and checked for visible damage, none found but I cleaned the stator up during the process. My spark was VERY VERY weak, to the point that I had to replace plugs every few hours of run time, too much use and they would have too much resistance. I wish I could tell you which of these things fixed the problem but I can't, all I can say is I have excellent spark now. I believe it was a combination of cleaning the connections up and rejetting. The weak spark was only part of the equation, it will still start with weak spark but after warmng up (and overheating) I didnt have enough compression to start with weak spark.

AMEN The philosophy of my Banshee for the first 3 months I owned it "Ride for 2 hours, work for 2 weeks, ride for 2 hours, work for....." Basically if you don't have everything exactly how you want it or how it is supposed to be, you will be back at the drawing board and emptying your wallet. But that goes for any and all toys. How do I ride??? Like its stolen........but its a Banshee ......if it is stolen the cops will never catch me

I took him in the hole 2 out of 3 times, the 3rd time it was a very close launch and I barely nosed in front. Very short racing though, maybe 250' or so. Haven't raced any YFZ's but that 450R keeps up with most, beats some and gets beat by others. So I'd say hit or miss as of right now. I cant wait I love this thing now, 4th gear it hits the power band and claws for the sky on pavement.....1st-3rd go without saying. A friend of mine has a Blaster (ya, pathetic) and his favorite thing to do is wheelies, he lives for it. He tries to ride em on his Blaster but its hard with his custom brake setup (really hard), he rides for miles and does stunts on his bro's 400ex. He gets on mine yesterday, goes to clutch up a wheelie in 2nd and I come running out into the street "NOOOOO!!!" He stopped, then I told him to just punch it.....he did........and smacked the grab bar. He instantly stopped the bike, shut it off, jumped off and looked at me like I just showed him a million dollars. "I am not gettin back on that thing without a helmet!" This comin from teh guy that stunt rides crotch rockets without a helmet

Its a proud day. My project Banshee finally beat my buddies 450R (he wont admit to it). Its not a run-of-the-mill 450 either. Its the HRC equipped kit and has a LRD Pro 4 full system. VERY fast...but not fast enough. I've been working for 3 months to beat that thing and I finally can. Pipes and pro flow K&N filter helped but in the end, it was the advanced timing, new clutch, pod filters and experience that got it done. Ya..........im proud of the money pit

WORD Thats for when things get shitty......either walk away or smash it with a hammer! I've done both, let me tell you, the method with the most gratification is also the one that costs the most.

I've got close to the same setup (T5's with spark arrestors, boyesons, stock carbs)except K&N pods instead of the Uni and am at about 800'. I have mine jetted for 80-90 degrees and it is runnin 310's. I think it may be one or two sizes lean and it also overheated for a minute or two today doing donunts in the sand (no airflow). I am also jetted for 80:1 Saber on 100 oct with advanced timing (+3 or +4) so the timing contributes to overheating. I am about 1 jet size lower than I would be for 40:1, so keep that in mind. I would say you are probably 2 sizes too low on your main, maybe only 1 due to your elevation. I have the Dynojet needle in the 4th clip (2nd from bottom) and a 30 pilot at about 1 turn out. Good luck Oh, with those T5's, advance your timing and get some of that low end good stuff back! It will rip VERY hard when you do.

290's sounds high, 260 at the most unless you are in Antarctica. Im with the 'check for leaks' suggestion. That or make sure you really know what your plugs are supposed to look like. I am at a 320 and thats with pod filters, T5 pipes, advanced timing and Boyesen reeds. It sounds more to me like you are looking for power from jetting instead of looking for correct performance but I may be wrong.

A ring compressor is not necessary. 2-stroke rings can easily be compressed by hand and slid into jugs. DO NOT USE SILICONE! I dont know how many times I have seen it. Compressed silicone seeps out of seams and will become lose particles inside your engine. A little bit isnt a big deal but one good gob can cause all sorts of problems. Use "triple bond" or "yama bond" to seal your cases. It hardens moreso than silicone but still flexes enough to compensate for heat expansion. I have split the cases on mine 4 times now and have yet to even open any type of silicone adhesive. I have even used "tripe bond" in place of a waterpump gasket temporarily and it worked for quite a long time (dealer part, had to wait days for it to come in) A wire brush can work ok for cleaning up gasket surfaces but Scotch-brite works the best. Fold it over a couple times and use straight light strokes, not concentric circles. An "exact-O" knife equipped with a straight edge blade like a razor (sharp edge at the end like a floor scraper) works excellent for cleaning gasket surfaces as well. A good torque wrench is an absolute must but remember, it doesnt do you any good if you don't know your specs......GET A MANUAL! For 3 of those pesky jug bolts, you may want a torque extender wrench (cant remember exact name). It is basically a boxed end wrench with a square slot for accepting the 3/8" drive end of your torque wrench. Many people just kind of "feel" there way on those bolts but if you are doing it right, the extension is the way to go. Remember though, you are extending your torque application, you have to adjust the setting on the wrench to compensate. Brake cleaner, and lots of it. Do not use carb cleaner. Many people do this without realizing that carb cleaner actually leaves a residue. Brake cleaner doesn't. Test it - spray carb cleaner on something like a piece of paper and brake cleaner also, notice they dry differently. This is a main cause of people having case leaks. Bonding agents (triple bond) do not stick to residue or oil. Make sure everything is spotless........then clean it again! Assembly lube - basically motor oil. Use it where ever a part will be moving that will not be submerged in oil immediately. Such as rod bearings, crank bearings, piston rings, LOTS on clutch fibers. It will smoke a bit when you start it the first time and for a few minutes but it is much better for you engine during those first few kicks than dependnig on your premix to do the job (it wont) The two most important things you can do, by far. Take your time and make sure its spotless.

No sweat

Thanks for all the help guys. I'll be porting the cages next week when I return from vacation. Would do it today but I have a few four strokes I need to make look even more pathetic. I'll give the porting a try until I can get a set of V3's. I do not want to even try the V2's for the reason of the seemingly common losing of screws in the jugs. NOT something I wanna go through.

If you notice in the kit descriptions it says "Cast piston included" I don't care who makes the cast piston I wouldn't run it in a lawn mower if I had the option. I would have opted to run the forged version ($11 more). As for Vitos switching manufacturers, I am unsure on this and admit it. I know for a fact that up until late in 04' they were still being made by Wiseco. As for the piston porting, that explains my question, thank you. I was curious to that matter and now I have my answer.

Ok, I am just on a budget and wanted something that will give me a little added 'oomph' til I can affored the V3's. Thanks guys

What do you mean "wheres the rest"? There are 250 pics from the dunes alone, I would think that would count for "the rest".

I saw a post a while back about porting stock reed cages. I am intesreted in knowing a little more about how to do it and the gains of it compared to an aftermarket cage such as Vforce 3's. I saw a tutorial on how to port the cages but know I am unable to find the post or the tutorial itself, could someone please give me some insight on how much can be gained from this mod and where I can find this tutorial again? thanks

Not true, that 2 into 1 produces gobs of low end compared to any other pipe. It sacrifices the top end though. Jetting does not always reflect power increases although in most cases it seems to be very closely related. The way I compare jetting to power increase is by the area UNDER the power curve rather than the peak of the torque curve. The 2 - 1 pipe simply flattens the curve out by bringing the low end up and the top end down. It doesnt increase the area under the curve as much as say, FMF's, T5's or the higher end drag pipes. They increase the area under the power curve and also require larger jetting. This is definitely not a scientific explanation but it seems to explain it a bit better than "well, my jetting is 3 sizes higher so I am definitely quicker"

Correct, no lid

No it wasnt a kevlar. It looked like a cheapo Vesrah. It was on the bike when I bought it and when I did a rebuild I was too broke to replace the clutches at the same time. When I went to put the fibers back in I noticed one was cracked. Bells and whistles shoulda started goin off but they didnt. I replaced the bad fiber with a new Barnett kevlar and went on my way. Well, guess I didnt replace all the bad fibers.. Now I have a full Barnett Kevlar set

I am gettin ready to switch from Yamalube 2-R to Amsoil Saber. I run 32:1 right now and at $6-7 a quart it gets pricey. I plan to run 80:1 on Saber at only $7-9 a quart. My question is, how much is it going ot affect my jetting. Obviously there will be more fuel in the mixture so I believe I may have to go down on the main slightly but I am unaware how much. Any ideas? Will I even have to change? I am pretty sure I do.

I just got some K&N clamp on pods for my Shee and will be removing the airbox and K&N w/ Pro-flow flange. How much bigger will I need to go on the mains? As you can see from my sig, I have a few little things done and am running a 30 pilot, Vitos (dynojet) needle in the 4th slot and a 310 main. Sound about right for 600-900'+ sea level? I am thinking 1 size larger on mains, needle where it is, but the motor is currently sitting on my work bench waiting for me to finish torquing everything so I havent had a chance to check out the difference yet. Had a little upset with my clutch fibers and it destroyed my crank seal in the first hour of a 3 day duning vacation over the "get drunk and blow $**t up" holiday weekend. Check the pics out... Pics of 2nd case split in a month Main directory, check out "silver lake" for some wild stuff