Handyman

Can you read the numbers on the rods????might have longer rods in yours

Well there I was.....that's how a good story always starts... The last line had me rolling...felt like a cloud of air. i take it the shocks had a very "fluid" motion to them.... At least nothing was hurt or damaged....

Here's a link to one of my posts...mine was doing the same thing.....service manager clained it was the imulsion tube inside the slide...that was infront of his mechanics...once away from them he said that after the cylinders were put back on and it ran fine that he has no clue what the hell fixed my problem.....Maybe something here will help you. mY biekwa sin the shop for 3 weeks..worked on every day...paid $100 becasue they bent one of my needles and installed a new jet kit EDIT: make sure the TORS is disconnected.... http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?...l=left+cylinder

There was topic on here about steel braided brake lines a couple days ago and i can't seem to find it....The topic was about how the lines attaced to the bike.....Do the lines replace just the rubber lines or the rubber and the hard lines from the master cylinder?? From what I have read and understood the steel braided brake lines replaced just the rubber lines...correct me if i'm wrong.

Awesome... It's amazing how much of a difference jetting can make if it's off just a hair....I found that out with mine...got the jetting dialed in damn near perfect and I wrecked...Trust me..You haven't felt the full power of the motor yet.... wait til you get it jetted properly

Mine are the same way....I screwed the nuts on the rod ends all the way out and the rod ends screwed all the way in and from what i can tell there is either no toe in or at least very little to the point to where it's hard to tell if it's toed in or not... kinda hard to tell with the front tires being wider than the rear. The measurements(from what i can tell) are so minimal that I'm not going to really worry about it.

huh??? what???? what did I miss..

seems like everyone got 14" tie rods.....I gotmine to work but it took some work for them to work

To check the slide you will have to remove the slide completely from the carb.when you look down into the top of it, you will see what I'm talking about.

Just for shits and giggles.....if you can....put in a 300 or 310 main jet, 27.5 pilot and needle clip in 3rd position. see if the leaning out the jetting will make a difference. you may be sucking in way too much gas with the big main and a small pilot and drowning the spark. Also in the slide.....where the needle goes there should be a metal piece that the throttle cable attaches to. That metal piece has a hole in it that should line up with a hole in the slide. make sure you don't have the hole covered up...that may be causing some issues there. I had a similar problem with mine last year and the shop couldn't figure it out either after 3 weeks....they did a complete tear down of the top end, replaced everything and it ran fine....they said they didn't know what fixed it but this was some of the things they said they looked at...

www.motosportoutlet.com...free shipping for orders over $200.. Try rockymountainmc.com they are reasonably priced but too sure on their shipping....haven't ordered anyting from them that was over $100 but hey ship quickly from my experience

The air screws should be 1.5 -2 turns out from seated. You said that you cleaned the carbs....did you make sure the carbs were sync'd(slides moving at the same time, moving the same amount, they aren't installed backwards),. If it was me. with a 340 main I'd bump the pilot up to a 27.5. Pull the plug out put the plug boot on, ground it and start it and see if you have spark in that cylinder... try swapping the plug boots from one plug to the other and see if the problem jumps from one cylinder to the other. make sure the plug wires are plugged in to the coil...check for corrosion while you have the connectors disconnected. have there been any mods done to the engine/exhaust etc...

Improper Jetting(lean) will cause overheating... make sure the coolant fluid is good to go and check to make sure the impeller isn't screwed....make sure anything that is involved with the cooling system is good to go and there isn't anything wrong..

So the Wicked A-arms are 7/8" in diameter....where can I find some 7/8" diameter brake line holders.??

My Wicked tie rods for my +2+1 arms are 14" long with out the ends... My ends are screwed all the way in and the tires are toed out just a bit....

Ok guys may have found a trick that you may want to try.....I just went out and screwed with mine some more....My rod ends have to be all the way in and the fronts are toed out just a bit.....I had to turn the rods to push the back of the tires out and they are pretty damned close....The instructions that came with the kit mention to leave the rods attached to the bike and just unscrew the rods off themselves....I did that and tried to keep one of the nuts that screw against the rods in place so I didn't have to remeasure everything but that didn't work.....so try what I just did and see what happens...When the ends are all the way in the tires are just a hair toed out...

Damn....I think bansh-eman said his were 13" He may have gotten lucky and gotten the right ones.. I'll call tomorrow as well and see what they say. I def. can't align them right witht he rods I have now...may try the stock rods...think they will fit??

How did your tie rods fit...right length or too long.... Mine are looking too long....I have the rod ends screwed in all the way and the tires are still toed in on the front quite noticeably..They measure 14" withouth the ends installed...can you measure yours and let me know....Bansh-eman was wondering the same thing

Well I fianlly got my hub off my axle and I can see that there is some wear on the splines on the axle and hub from where it was loose. I took the other side off and there is no play when so ever. I took another hub I had and the play is not near as much but still a very little. Is there an allowable limit as far as play goes??

Then $500 is a great deal...You kinda left that part out when you first posted.

Just recieved my Wicked A-arms...they are awesome. The powdercoat is awesome and very good quality. The communication with Wicked was top notch as well. Got tracking number and they were packaged extremely well. Got these when they were having their sale.

Not for used pipes...I'd pay no more than $400 for excellent condition used CPI's.....If you are going to pay $500 for used pipes spend the extra $50 and get new pipes..Then you;ll know the chrome is in perfect conidtion and there are no dings and no rust...

new CPI's will cost $550

CONGRATS.....Very cute kid.

Anyone??