-
Posts
1,608 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Store
Everything posted by Handyman
-
:yes: A cheetah powervalve cylinder kit includes cylinder, reeds, gaskets, powervalves, head, pistons, rings, needle bearings...runs about $2300 Stuff you still need...33-35mm carbs($350) dual pingle valve($60) so your lookiing at about $2700 not including a longer swingarm to keep the front down. jets for the carbs for the fine tuning, a better set of paddles to ge the power transferred to the ground and get the tires to hook...etc...so you're looking at close to $3k-$4k depending on brand and price for shipping of the parts not to mention labor if you have it done for you... It would almost be cheaper to buy a motor or banshee already built for drag racing..at least in my case it would be since I want a 535cc cheetah motor... :woot:
-
Just a dumb question....but when you cut the TORS wires at the throttle did you disconnect the TORS electrical connectors from the carbs to the black box that is located under the left side of the fuel tank??
-
I can't believe I'm going to say this...go over to planetsand.com and ask this same question. There a lot more drag racers than there are here.. The few people here know what they are talking about but if there is more info over on the planetsand. there a lot of pages of info that you will answr most of your questions...
-
From what I've read and from what the big dogs who have more experience with the powervalve motors say that the torque curve is different due to the powervalves adding more torque down low due to the air in the cylinder doesn't have a free flow out of the cylinder and out into the exhaust...Not too sure if the HP is affected by the powervalves or not... The peak HP between the 2 motors are the same...The cheetah powervalve motors also have a CR250 reed set up(bigger intake opening= more air) The cubs have the regular banshee reeds set-up and the powervalve motor also has a specific head that cannot be used on a cub motor...the OEM head can be used on the cub motors but not the banshee motors...I know I just repeated myself but just want to make sure that there is no confusion with others that may read this. The guys who specifically drag race use the cheetah powervalve cylinders because of the bigger intake opening. I have no numbers as to what the HP difference will be with astock crank compared to a 4mil crank...I do know that is is pretty significant..
-
Well if you're going to drag only then I'd spend the extra money and get a 4mil crank..that will also make a huge difference..They are easy to fond and are on ebay and on here quite often from what I can tell..My 4mil 421 cheetah powervalve motor is making 80-85hp with the current set-up..
-
Like Daj said...we need more info on your intentions...play in the dunes, drag and dune, drag only, etc....A cub setup would be just as good and cheaper and has the same peak HP as the cheetah motor..just so there is no confusion...There is a chetah cub kit and a cheetah powervalve kit...The only difference is the powervalves in the one kit...
-
Damn... I didn't know there were Hq'ers that close to me..
-
I came across a scam like this on ebay involving a '69 camaro in immaculate condition for very cheap..Had money in my account and I was serious..I contacted the guy and said that he had just moved to England and that the car was at a shipping warehouse in L.A. and that once I paid him I could go get it....I did what any smart person would do...Told him that after I drove the car and looked at it person I'd hand over the cash...Never heard from the guy and reported it to Ebay..Later saw the same car being sold in Australia with the same thing...."Just moved to......"
-
I didnt know you were in Fresno, Ca....I'm like 20 minutes south of you...
-
bottom end problem..It just dies out
Handyman replied to wacko2000's topic in Jetting & Exhaust Forum
Yeah carb cleaner will be fine... -
also make the spark plug wires boots on the plugs are on securely and on the box... sswap the boots from site to side to see if the problem jumps sides....
-
bottom end problem..It just dies out
Handyman replied to wacko2000's topic in Jetting & Exhaust Forum
Have you done a leak down test?? Just to make sure they didn't forget to tighten something down?? -
I'm getting tired of scammers on here....andrew I'm not callling you a scammer and I am taking no sides.... butIf you sent his parts by UPS then they gave you a tracking number...Even if you ask for it they give you one I deal only wth UPS when I ship anything just for that reason..I believe it's also part of company policy to issue a tracking number on all parcels shipped by the...Give the tracking number to prove you sent them...If someone hasn't recieved parts 22 days after you cash their money order then there is something wrong...UPS does not take 30 days to ship anything...work with the guy yousold the stuff to and correct the situation....If in fact that the Shipping carrier lost the box the parts were in go and find out it's last location...they can do that...hence the reason of the tracking number...either ask UPS to give you the amount the parts were worth and/or send the buyer back his money...This is how I do business when I ship parts to people who buy the from me...
-
Hey chase, I need a truck back window decal and would like to know what fonts you have..I have payapl and can pay asap...Thanks
-
I'm not too sure this has any relevance the poster's issue...but when i bought my '99 I rode it for about 3 months and did the oil change, the oil came out kinda grayish and kinda milky....didn't even think about other liquid in the oil but I have never had that happen since then...always comes out nice and clear...could the type/brand have anything to do with this??
-
Oh yes I'd run straight race gas...they say anything over 160psi should be nothing but race gas..but some run a mix of 50/50.. I run 20cc domes at 174psi...at the same elevation and run straight race gas..... The stoker crank has a little longer stroke than a stock crank which in turn compresses the air/gas mixture a little more causing a higher compression number...
-
PM Kaotik1 here on rthe HQ...I have a few things done by him..AWESOME QUALITY AND REASONABLE PRICES!!!!
-
There's a connector up next to the steering stem by the top of the steering loop that has to deal with the cylinders...make sure that has a good connection..you will have to pull the tank to get to it...I found this connector when I accidently broke it... and started it up to see what it's purpose was...left cylinder was dead...so I fixed it and the left cylinder worked....Just a thought....
-
Have you tried looking for an air leak?? Have you done any work on the motor for this issue to start?? I'd also check all the electrical connectors..
-
What pilot jet do you have in it now? Have you checked the air screws??
-
If you are going to want to jump I'd stick with the +2..My +4 swinger kept trying to throw me over the bars with a stock rear shock....It did buck me over the bars once and I ended up with a broken collar bone, 3 broken ribs and I was knocked out.....If you go with a +4 you could probably adjust the rear shock to be softer and more forgiving on the jumps...mine was set kinda stiff for the launches for drag racing..
-
You could also do a duneable override.....Yeah get ready for a ride of your life...When I went from a 98% stock shee to a 421 4mil longrod cheetah powervalve with 175psi I just about shit myself...I never go tthe real feel of the power until I got it in the sand and the hauler extremes hooked up...My hands and fore arms hurt from holding on with a death grip....I'm running a +4 swinger and don't have too many issues...
-
I havre the Alienware Aurora M9700 that's built and as of right now it has problems playing that game...the graphics are highly demanding. You have to have a really good graphics card...and a laptop cooling pad is recommended...
-
The stock bore is 64mm...from there it goes 1st over size bore(64.25mm) 2nd oversize bore(64.50mm) and then is goes .010.-.060 over...If I'm wrong on the regular size bores I'm sure someone will correct me....
-
A buddy of mine had his truck shut off on him on the freeway while driving...come to find out it was the cam sensor...Ford has a recall outo n it and it didn't cost him a penny....hey was at 100k+ miles...This happened about 2 weeks ago.....Bansheeseat$$ works at a ford dealership and may know a bit more about the motors....hopefully he'll see this and give some insight.

