Handyman

The motor is awesome in the sand...I can go play in the dunes and then go line up at the hill and race and hold my own if not win...The all out drag bikes tend to be a little faster...the PV's help on the low end when playing in the sand...most of the reputable exhaust systems will fit onto the PV cylinders.. Toomey's, T5's, CPI's, Shearer's, etc....

Powervalves can't be put in cyclinders not made for them(as far as I know)...Looking at my stock cyclinders and my powervalve cylinders they are made different....as far the castings and internal aspects...You will have to buy the cylinders that are made specifically for the powervalves. The area that the PV's are installed in have to have a flat surface to set onto create a good seat.. and the fact that seat area is also thicker in that area...which the sotck cylinders are not..

I also asked him a couple questions about his shee.. Questions.... What's YVPS heads?? Never heard of that brand for a banshee head Are these the OEM dual carbs?? What modifications were done to the frame and/or shock mounts to install the KFX450 shocks. Answers... yvps heads heads are the heads off of an old yamaha street bike they took off the market because it was too fast for its time they make for a lot stronger top end then if you were to just bore banshee heads my dad is an old banshee freak thats how i learned alot of this stuff the makuni carbs are just an aftermarket set of larger carbs they are a very popular brand from japan none of that chinese crap again a tip from my dad the yfz arms bolt right up and the kx450 shocks bolt to them just as a normal setup would be just wider with mor travel i put new plug wires on i have extra brake pads front and rear there are new chain guides and the pipe is a dual fmf fatty pipe the air filter is a 2-1 but the pipes are not here are some pics alot of that crap didnt make sense to me at first but like i said dad is a banshee freak and he knows what works if you have any more questions or you would like to see it

It's also a 2-1 set up for the exhaust...

sure will

For those who own Wicked A-Arms...Found 7/8"-1" brake line clamps made buy "ROCK" Found them in my motosport outlet catalog...Went to the website and they are not on the site yet...motosport code..CLGBWM....They are $29.99 a pair and come in Anodized black, red, blue, and silver and made from aircraft grade 6061 aluminum.....

I called and asked this same question and they said that They won't offer much and to try privately to sell it...

When I ordered new pistons for my PV from Trinity I also ordered the gasket kit and they were the correct kit... If you want you can call them and get what you need.

100psi is way low...even for a stock motor..On my P.V. motor with 20cc domes at +4 timing at 200ft elev. I'm running 175 psi in both cylinders....Check your torques and do a leak down test....

I love my 421 PV in the dunes...the bottom end torque/power is good and the top end is a beast..... theh cubs and PV's are great duning motors....can't go wrong with either choice

TJ YOu still have that frame?? I thought you sold that a long time ago

He may have construction experience...don't know his work history or experiences....But he's a pretty intellegent guy.

He did work at a Ford dealership as a service technician...If I remember correctly.

I have a set of wicked +2+1 a-arms and I like them...They are a pretty good product and they mounted right up with minimal issues...The ball joints are removable....The PC is included in the price. Bansh-eman also has a set but he is having issues with mounting his spindles...But he's the only one I know of that is having issues.

When is the best time of the year to go?? Seems that when I go to my Condo in Morro Bay that it's a hit and miss on the weather...it's either perfect or cold and windy.........

Pismo is also getting pretty anal about registgration. Getting on the beach in a 2wd is do able but I wouldn't get too far up in the loose sand fro fear of getting stuck....The las time I was there there were a bunch of young "hot shots" tghat didn't look where they were going....almost ran over a few people because they didn't look before they turned....

Once you adjust your timing you will have to adjust the jetting as well....not much at all but just a little...maybe a size or two either direction...every motor is different so you will have to tinker with it to dial it in...

To remove the engine there are 4 bolts....2 on bottom, one up front, and one in the rear by the top shock mount bolt...YOu have to remove the exhaust too. not every compicated....you also don't have to remove the engine to rebuild the top end...you can remove the exhaust, remove the front plastics and tank and do it that way...I did this way just because i didn't want to disconnect the wiring harness and all the lines and clutch cable... just remove the nuts holding the cylinders that hold the cyclinders to the cases and pull the cylinders. And yes a clymers is ever so helpful....and it has pictures

Sounds like your jetting is close....Brian has gotten you pretty close....but yo uhave over looked the timing.....Here's what I suggest.... Main Jet..150 Pilot Jet...48 Needle...3rd clip from top If you have not advanced your timing I would advance to +4...I will almost bet my left nut that once you advance your timng that thing will rip...With those big carbs you are pulling more air and fuel and the +4 timing will help...... The jetting i suggested is set for 4500ft above sea level...the bike will run but it will sputter only at WOT because it's very rich on top(better rich than lean).....I run a 142/45 at 220ft above sea level on my 421 PV and it runs great...I ran a 160 main for the break in process and it was rich WAY TOO RICH.... I would also run 93 octane as well.....

If you unplugged the connectors for the TORS from the Carbs to the black box, and from ythe black box to the throttle housing the lights on/off swtich should work switch....The black box is the one loacted under the tank on the left side attached to the frame..The on/off switch should not included in the TORS system as far as wiring. Somwething else is worong there....as far as dying past 1/2 throttle.....what do you have dopne to the motor.....that would help us all out to help better help you

Just keep enought fluid in it so that there is fuid over the hole where the fluid goes into the line

if he was parting it out I'b be broke...He has a lot of beautiful stuff on that thing

Can't believe he's got listed to sell....One hell of a guy and I've seen this run in person...makes my Cheetah Powervalve look stock and slow (and i bought it from him)...EXTREMELY clean and very well maintained http://reno.craigslist.org/mcy/532948417.html

WOW there are still new shee's out there?? I saw a guy on ebay that had 3 stock '06 50th anniversary shee;s for sale....was selling one for $10k and was keeping the other 2 in storage until the value went up...

Not sure if there is a "best" oil but there are definately very good oils to use... everyone will have their preferences... I use castor 927 and 32:1 and I like it...Also used Maxima but the smell gave me a headache...