2003LimitedBanshee

No problem, it's a start at least. I remember you posting somewhere that you used the 5-axis for your porting. My 1/8" carbide is TiAln coated as well. Like I said, just looking at it, it appears that it will be mostly 1/8" tooling work. The only exception to that would appear to be the intake and potentially the exhaust. The transfers look like 1/8" only. Thanks, hopefully there will be more input to come...

Hey everyone, I just picked up some new carbide burrs, but I had some questions before I start grinding. Do you guys do more of your work with 1/4" or 1/8" burrs. I picked up some long and short shank 1/4" carbide, but the heads seem to like they would be too big to do much work. I also, picked up quite a few (about a dozen different profiles in a few different size heads) 1/8" burrs. They seem like the only thing that would work in the transfers and obviously the only ones that will work with my No 1MC. It looks like it will be mostly 1/8" work, but maybe some 1/4" in the intake area. What is anyone's preference or experience? Thanks!

Standard fit, such as PD or NOSS? How about condition? I am porting my cylinders and I might go for a set of 19's after to keep my compression up. PM sent.

Now, I don't know how the new 700 GYT-R edition Raptors with the GYT-R pipe compares to aftermarket piped 700's, but I know that I was beating a guy on his 700 all last year at the asphalt 1/8 mile. To make a long story short I would suck right off the line (stock swinger so you had to "peddle" it big time) but I had him by 60ft and it widened from there. They are quick don't get me wrong, but nothing a decently modded bolt-on, even stock port (as mine was) Banshee can't handle.

I guess the link must be posted over on PS, but I haven't been able to find it again yet. I know it was D.A.R.A or something, but when I typed that in I got the Delaware Amatuer Racquetball Assoc. so...?

Nope, it looks like Blue Duece (who's, not to start a flame war as he put it 3 years ago, posts I haven't been impressed with) posted that, not to be confused with boonman. Now, take note I never said it would cool by X% better, but I can tell you that I used to be able to run the crap out of my bike at the dunes and get it to spit coolant after long climbs, now it never spits a drop. And for a further less scientific yet explanation see how long you can hold you hand on a stock head that has been running hard compared to a coolhead. Neither one is very long, but I can definitely stand it longer with my NOSS head. Additionally, if you look at a NOSS or other coolhead when it is in pieces you will see that a good deal of surface area around the combustion chamber has better contact with the coolant. So, I will stick to my guns that the coolheads are more efficient at transfering heat away from the cylinders. So even with the added compression, which you are correct would lead to higher combustion temps, if you're head is more efficient at transfering that heat away, you still have a net decrease in the residual cylinder temp.

Knew I should have found that chart before posting up. I did the calc real quick and came up with that figure, but I was sure that I saw .020 over at 358. Goes to show you, never doubt the math!

Yep, the man speaks the truth.

Dang, someone just posted a link (maybe that was PS???) to a website that had all the displacement breakdowns based on bore and stroke. If I remember right, .020 over was a 358, so .040 over should put you in the 366cc range.

Well, I'll go against the grain here on this one and say that I fully intended to have my Wiseco's coated. Now, I don't plan on buying them coated, but rather having them done locally at an industrial coating shop where a buddy of mine works. Coatings have been around for quite a few years now, and they've only gotten better with time. I know GM had some problems, but most of those that I was aware of was due to a change in the piston skirt, not the application of coatings. I haven't heard of (doesn't mean somebody else hasn't) a failure that was tied to a coating breakdown to this day. With that said, I fully intend to have the tops coated with a heat barrier coating and the skirts with a friction reducer. To each their own, but in my mind it's worth it.

Well first, heat (or reduction in this case) is horsepower. If it runs cooler it will make more power. Second, if you run domes that are smaller than the stock chambered head you will increase horsepower due to the added compression.

Like Jared said, the only real downsides are the added risk of crank failure on an unwelded crank and the added cost of fuel if you need to run race. I run straight race gas in mine due to the head and timing advance, which can make outings pretty expensive, but you won't be disappointed by the added grunt you get from that NOSS head.

A switch to some Haulers wouldn't hurt you as far as the dragging goes. If you do those added upgrades, even short of porting, you should beat him unless there is a major skill difference. Personally, I saw a couple ltr's running around at the end of last year, one stock, the other had a yosh pipe, and with my bolt ons I would have run them with no concerns all day long. Now, didn't know the guys so maybe they couldn't ride for crap, but from up close they seemed kind of pokey as compared to other 450's. Just my $.02

Paypal submitted, left message at your phone. Hopefully you still have one of the +4 P/C Black stock carrier arms

Pm sent...

That's more what I was getting at... If you look at the base of a set of cylinders you will see the sealing area is fairly small and by decreasing the sealing area on the case as well, it just makes it slightly more likely. I probably should have clarified that I intend to port my cases and take my chances. As with most around I am a HP FREAK so whatever I can do to put more ahead of the next guy is worth it. It just seemed like the last few times I saw it come up, general opinion was to leave them be. :beer:

In general loco I would agree with you, but I received some great (but unexpected, true) advice from one of the builders over on PS. He actually went so far as to post port timings, durations etc. What the others have said to an extent is true also. You have to understand the theory for the numbers to make sense. Here is the link to that thread (sorry to pull it away from BHQ), although I'm not sure you may have to be a PS member to read it...? http://www.planetsand.com/forums/ubbthread...true#Post421460 Also, as mentioned expect to spend more money getting setup to port your own cylinders than if you were to just send them out. I have about $700 worth of porting tools that I have accumulated and I am in the market for a few more pieces. Compare that to Jeff at FAST which I think runs in the $300-400 range for a dune/play port job. But, I get the satisfaction of saying that I ported my own cylinders. The other thing I will say is that if you understand port timings and have some basic flow principles you will probably be able to identify areas where the flow could be drastically improved. I know when I started I was scared to death. I understood the port timings ut wasn't sure where the flow issues could be addressed. Then once I sat down and looked at a set of cylinders I could immediately see problem areas.

Wow! So I am feeling really good about my steal. They showed up the other day and they are virgin. You could bolt on and run. Bansheeryder21, steals are still out there you just have to keep your eyes peeled.

p/c black +4" PM Sent

As above, you will want to richen up your main jets. A good rule of thumb would be approx 3 main sizes for the switch to the dual K&N's, but you may get an addtional size (probably not two, but maybe) out of the other mods.

The biggest impact on the need for changes will be the K&N's, especially if you are going from stock airbox to duals.

Probably slightly, I honestly don't remember the difference in pull after I took my TORS off. But, the biggest factor you are overcoming is the spring between the slide and the carb cap/top. So since that distance isn't being altered, you don't really gain anything.

This has been covered several times here and the consensus always seems to come back about like this... If you are building an all out drag bike, where max HP is key and longevity is not a big concern, go for it. Otherwise, general opinion is that the added potential for problems outweighs the slight HP advantages.

It sounds like you are referencing adding "boost", "boyeson" etc. ports. They are drilled from the intake track into the aux transfers to increase flow. While I agree, the ports I have seen appear that they could be drilled at home, the question that come to mind is whether or not he welded the cylinder on the outside after adding the ports? Most builders will weld on the outside of the cylinder to help recover some of the strength lost by drilling the added ports.

BigRed's are gone unless he has another set up within the last day or two...