2003LimitedBanshee

That's exactly what I was getting at. Like said, I ride sand only, so with a Prefilter the 2:1 UNI works great and it's free HP. So, wuddup, if you plan on hitting any water don't get rid of the airbox, but if you don't hit water then I would. When I used to trail ride (at the very start) I was running a full airbox and when you popped it after a long day of riding, 40+ miles, it didn't matter that you were running an airbox, it was filthy inside that box too.

Well if you're ordering Toomey's and you're talking about the 2:1 that their kit can be ordered with it's actually a really nice filter. It flows a ton and works well. If your trails have water on them then I wouldn't recommend the UNI or the K&N pods as you'll have issues with the water. If not, you'll gain by going with either of the options over a boxed filter.

If you notice my signature I've got everything you mentioned plus a NOSS head with bumped up compression, timing plate, filter etc. and like I said still on the stock top end. Well, mine is a Snap-On, but I honestly can't recall how much it was. It's Snap-On, which means it is good, but I'm sure I paid a crap ton for it. One nice thing though is that it has air chuch style fittings for attaching different lines for different applications.

My '03 is still on the stock top end. Still kicks good numbers (actually a little high) each time I check it. Despite the common conception, a properly tuned stock engine will run on the top end for some time. Now, if you had port work done, they tend to be somewhat harder on rings as well as the thrust side of the cylinder wall due the higher output.

The big thing people are missing is that Yamalube is a petroleum based oil (full petro) where as Golden Spectro is a petroleum/synthetic blend. I run my bike on golden spectro and have been running it at 48:1 since day 1. The bike only sees the dunes and a majority of that is hillclimbing, so it by no means gets babied (just got back in fact). Never had a single issue, and still kicks high numbers on the stock top end. There seems to be a common misconception that running more oil makes you less likely to seize the engine. In fact, if you don't jet it properly I would argue that more people seize motors by running too much oil. The reason, the run more parts oil, less fuel (which aides immensley in cooling the piston) and it leads to a hotter running engine and a possible seizure. If you start running a richer oil raito, make sure and jet up accordingly. Now there is some contention that you can make more power by running a higher ratio of oil, but it's not a lubrication issue it's a ring seal issue. So, haven't tested it myself, but my buddy who works at the local Yamaha shop and has dyno'd many a bike said he has seen it although he didn't believe it till he saw it. That's where I fall right now, I'll believe it when I see it. For me, oil is not combustible, so I will run as lean an oil ratio as I can to peak power, but just enough to keep everything moving.

WOW! There is a lot of great info in this thread. I need to keep a better eye on the suspension forum, because I didn't realize you could convert to 450 suspension so easily. So, with that in mind, I read some pages back that it wasn't clear yet whether 06 (and 07 more specifically for me) YFZ450 arms could be used. Do you still have to use 04-05, or can 06-07 arms be used as well. A guy has arms and tie rods for sale and I thought I would pick them up if they would work. Way cheaper than aftermarket. Also, I remember reading that you can use the stock brake lines? I would think the +2 width would make that impossible. Thanks!

Totally agree you have to perform some general maintenance if you expect everything to work right. Otherwise you build on the stigma that "those Banshee guys always have to work on their $h!t..." I will admit that I bought some of the Chain Wax stuff but never ran it in the sand. I applied it, it seemed really tacky so I read on the can and it said it leaves a cosmolene like finish. So, knowing I didn't want anything like cosmolene on my chain I immediately cleaned it and started using Tri-Flow. It's worked great for me for several years now...

A lot of people just run the 8's. I prefer running 9's with my compression and timing just to be on the safe side. If your bike is tuned properly it will handle the 9's no problem, I replace my plugs once a season just for grins, but I have yet to foul a plug running 9's. However, if you're bike is rich and it doesn't need the 9's it will foul them. Making the switch is just a further ping or detonation risk reducer. To give you an idea, I am running 175+psi (192 psi at sea level, yes it's been double/triple checked with different testers don't write me...) with +4* timing advance. I was told I probably didn't need to switch, but I did and now I would feel scared to run 8's.

If by completely stock you mean pipes and all, the only thing you've changed is just the Toomey (UNI) 2:1 filter setup, then I would guess that you should go up about 2, maybe 3 sizes from your current jetting. At least that will give you an idea to work from.

I thought my PD Impellar came with instructions when I bought it, but it's been long enough ago that I can't remember. If it didn't I must have used my Clymer's. The Clymer is not by all means the answer to everything, but everyone who owns a Banshee should at least have one for reference.

I'll agree with that and shut my mouth until I am a little less foggy up top. :beer:

No, I think what he thinks he is doing by having it bored "30" over is actually adding 30cc to each cylinder. Chris1992, this is definitely not the case. When people say they are boring it "30" over, they are referencing boring it .030" or 30 thousandths of one inch. Or like Bansh-eman said, about 355cc (didn't do the math on my part). There is a lot to be talked about here, but to cut to the chase, if it is a stock bore right now, there should be very little need to have it bored .030" right off the bat. You would have to do pretty heavy damage to the cylinder to require a .030" bore right off the bat. .020" is usually the most you would have to go, likely just to .010" Also, the carbs are Mikuni's and they would definitely work for a basic rebuild. If you had it ported, you might consider switching carbs, or having your stock carbs bored as well.

damn, you're right. I think that is the nyquil telling me it is time to stop posting and time to get my sick butt in bed. I need to be well to ride this weekend anyway. sorry!

Well I'm willing to bet you'd be in the minority believing that the VF3's don't do a thing. I know on a dual carb setup they far outperform the stock cages. Now, I have heard arguments about whether or not they outdo modded cages with TDR reeds, but they will definitely outdo stock cages. Now, you're already running rad valves so you may not see a signiificant bump by switching to VF3's.

I wouldn't say they are included in your standard port job, so yes they would be an additional charge at most any shop that I can think of. As far as if it is worth it, it definitely is not if you don't weld the outside of the cylinder to add back some of the "meat" that would be removed by drilling the ports so that the external thickness of the cylinder remains the same. As far as dyno results I don't believe I have seen a comparison of the same exact cylinders before and after "boost" "boyeson" or whatever you want to call them, ports are added. But I'm betting somebody out there has. My uneducated guess would be 1-4 HP.

As stated, once you go north of 165 - ish you should probably think about a 110 or better race fuel, especially if you are throwing extra timing at it. I prefer Trick 114 personally. Have VP, Sunoco and Trick in the area, some swear by each, so it probably comes somewhat down to simply preference.

WOW! I agree with you on the bargain and your products do look very nice, but I can't agree with your last statement. At lower cylinder pressures you might have a point, although I've yet to see an o-ring in good condition leak. Now, if you had said that o-rings don't hold a candle becuase it is easier to improperly install an o-ring and cause a leak, I would have agreed with that also. But, the simply fact in my experience is that under much higher cylinder pressures o-rings are still the standard. True, copper or steel gaskets have quite a long way and are capable of handling much higher pressures than they once were, but to the best of my knowledge (conceeding that you seem to have quite a good knowledge base) o-rings are still the winner in high compression scenarios.

Almost forgot another question I had about my No.1MC. What do you guys use to lubricate your tool. My foredom pieces are sealed, but I didn't know if something like Air Tool oil would work. Thanks again!

The jetting looks pretty close to me, maybe a tad rich, but not by much if at all. However, with your compression and timing I wouldn't think it would be necessary to switch to a BR9ES.

I prefer Tri-Flow. I ride in the sand and most of the other stuff leaves too much residue and draws sand. But, Tri-Flow stick with it better than WD40 or something like those.

Redoming compensates for the fact that you virtually eliminate (if not totally) you squish band in the dome of the stock head by milling to that extent. Redoming, is just like it sounds, the head essentially has the domes recut to restore the squish band.

Leaks or just plain old too lean jetting. Hanging RPM's are a classic indicator of lean jetting. It could be something in cable as far as fraying and hanging on the sheath, but I'd jet up a couple sizes, see if that helps and then do some plug checks to dial it in.

I was wondering about the aluminum hogs. I thought about picking up a set from CC Specialty since all I have right now is carbide.

PM Sent!

oops, missed that part. Stupidly, after I ordered my 1/4" carbide, I realized that my Foredom #30 only accepts up to 5/32", so I'm going to pick up a #44 handpiece to do some 1/4" work. KEVSWS6, those pics are awesome, looks like you do some pretty nice work. I'm hoping to take my time and come out with an end product similar to your work. Although, I know it will take me longer.