trickedcarbine

what company are you looking at? I actually prefer a 9" wheel. But if you've got a lot of power a taller tire on a 10" is good if you're geared for it.

RPM, Lonestar, DuraBlue in that order for an axle. Swing arm, there are plenty of great options right now. Are you wanting something arched or like a ladder bar?

UPP intakes. No exceptions but OEM. 100% that boot is the issue. It will melt your motor down. Might as well do a compression test to see if there is even life left in it BEFORE you even attempt to fix the boot. Also, if you're kind of new to two strokes, do a little reading on tuning, reading plugs, how to tell if it's lean or rich, identifying an the symptoms different issues. It can get expensive just throwing parts at something with out ever knowing if it's the actual solution.

Pull the carbs and take a peek.

Go to your safe spot. Call your support system. Fill your sippy cup with some warm milk to relax. NOW CUT YOUR FUCKING WRISTS! Jk

Upp

That's the type of riding the SLP pipes make a difference.

I look at it like this, if you find your self riding 4th-6th the whole ride, you may want a set up aimed at more wide open performance. If you are getting in to tight stuff where you are down in the lower gears and working the clutch frequently the SLP's shine. I flogged a set a couple seasons ago that I got from DFE and loved them on trails and twisty dirt roads. They did great on the 1/8th mile ice oval as well. But once I got them on a half mile oval... Gearing just wouldn't cut it and I suffered a bit of heat soak. They are stellar pipes none the less. It can't hurt to try them. Better to have a pipe that gets the bike moving right away and maybe need a touch more top end then to let it fall on its face and run out of room by the time they go full steam.

To me that just sounds like the wrong choice of pipe for that application. Yes they sign off earlier, but In trails they really shine where the typical bigger inframes struggle to even get in the power. If you are riding dunes or back roads, different pipes are the solution. Not just gearing IMO.

LED's have made the higher watt stator idea obsolete. If you are serious about a 200 watt, buy a failed oem core or the cheapest piece of shit you can find and beg Gary to rewind it.

I'd imagine there is a plateau when it comes to the larger CC motors.

Negative. The SLP's are making equivelant peak numbers as CPI-Shearers but doing it in an RPM range like the smaller inframes much earlier.

Could just be missing

Should be two rollers. Upper and lower. Some drag guys eliminate both and just run a tensioner. Typically if there is an adjustable link in the rear, it is for lowering the bike. Kind of common for guys with longer swing arms that make the back sit up higher and in TT racing to lower quads for handling.

With the axcaliber axle, you'll need 35mm bearings. Pull the axle to see if you have single tapered or dual row.

Just busting your balls. On a serious note, that's respectable. No fucking way today's generation would ever pony up labor for peanuts to get their foot in the door.

Everybody has to start somewhere. Whether they stay there or not is up to them. Quit being a cocksucker about the kids wage Silver Spoon Steve.

And.....

Jfc, I mean.... JFC! I am so bummed for you. At least you got a shelf full of participation trophies some where.

I put a set of these on my 4 mil, real solid repair.

Wise decision to walk on the first one. What did you end up with?

Phenomenal

Still Outlaw as FACK!

JEEZUS! That thing is pretty friggin' rad!

Wouldn't know. But those are pretty much a straight tube with a mandrel bend. A Ti expansion chamber for a two stroke is gonna have a lot of welds.