trickedcarbine

I did finally start the new motor, and yes I just decided on a big block. I found a 4 mil big block with a 78mm bore and I had cases set up for it, but there was a problem in the family that resulted in me shelling out mucho dollars. So that motor is on hold. I just don't know if I can get this thing together, so I will just freshen up the motor in my sig to be sure I can at least ride this year.

We live in a world where 9 outta 10 times you are paying for a name, however with the white diamond you really are getting what you pay for. That shit blows my mothers outta the water! Most of my banshee is raw metal not chrome so after experimenting I have definitely found what really puts on a shine as well as hold up and protect the metal you apply it to. Masterformula.com This is by far the best I have used though. This shit works on paint, plastic, and glass as well.

Why do I always find it so hard to follow what this guy has typed. I feel so confused. Hey RDZbangshee, who is your builder? There has to be a reason the motors you run are short lived. Are his other clients facing the same issues? I personally build my and tune my motors knowing that after a season, it will definitely need to be gone through. But to only get 20 hours, just seems weird. Who is tuning the thing? Sorry to hi-jack. Those 35's should be great ejered. If you got dunes like oregon, try the 33's though. If it is more open mid top throttle, 35's will pull the rpm's to keep you grinning. Hell, if you try the 35's and don't like them, trade them for the smaller stuff.

X2 on the YES! Not a bad idea for the drag guys. Additional inches can be had by flipping the hubs, but you will need some way to ream the studs out and insert them backward. No, I wouldn't use a big fuggin hammer. It would problably do some major mushrooming on the end of the threads. That set up should be plenty narrow and able to take any abuse up to a monster motor on asphault.

Tell ya what Burt, I got a cool head from pro-design sitting out in the garage that I would part with for 25 bucks plus shipping. Get your self some domes made from dave at noss and for about a hundred bucks you will have the correct set up and you will always be able to switch piston type and play with compression in the future.

Yeah, a 10 mil would be sick! Another unmentioned combo that I was pondering, pair the Serval with that 2-1 Shearer pipe and maybe some 34TM's or some 35 strykers. Maybe still get 80 and push the envelope on torque a bit. Maybe 60ish on torque.

50 bucks? Uhh, I guess something like that from motion pro comes with a price, but that seems a bit steep. Consider this, most diy guys that are even up to the task of redbuilding or working on their motors are easily capable of building their own leak down tester for about 12 bucks. Plus most guys who are doing their own work are using larger carbs wich means bigger manifolds. Just some food for thought while you rethink pricing.

Trust me Roger, problably not a coincidence. Any way, bump for a cool topic. Plus, I am tearing the rest of the bike down and need someone on board to help cost.

Got a few pix on my phone of that setup. PM me a number or e/mail, and I will send them to ya.

They are the forged big bore long rod style pistons. Normally I would say yes, but the first problem was problably from a little bit of ice water from not having a legit air box. The set I just pulled was out of a motor tuned on a dyno with a 155 main and was just a little bit on the safe side of rich. About the end of september when the chill started movin in the needle got an adjustment and the main was bumped up to 158 for my colder weather riding. So there was no shortage of fuel. Just not sure what caused it. The motor ran really solid and then one day it just felt like the choke was on and it would no longer idle. Quick compression test yielded 30 psi on the left and 180 on the right. Both plugs were a moist tan the day before catastrophe. I will try to get a new photobucket account set up so I can get you some pix. The piston that has alot of fissures and cracks was on the counter at lakes in waterford.

I have ran wsm pistons on my last few builds and would say the results are fair at best. I had one set show alot of weird fracturing, but it could have been from some moisture of ice racing. The set I just pulled out of my current motor tuesday has the entire piece between the two windows missing. They seem ok up to moderate abuse, but they tend to fail in a way very similar to cast pistons. I already need to split my cases to build a new motor, but it would of been nice to know there won't be any scaring on my freshly cryo'd cank. I did hydrolock a motor last year and it made my crank look like a Z shape. However, that motor had Weiseco pistons in it. So when I took it apart, the wrist pins pushed out with a touch of the finger. The WSM definitly need more coaxing with a wood doll and a mallet. I honestly don't see myself buying any more of these in the future though. Just do your self a favor and spend the extra few bucks on a proven forged piston like Weisco.

The leafy hills are quite the terrain to play on. Sometimes it is like trying to drive up a roller table. Any way, yes. The bandits will work a littke better turned around. Not much but it will help. Also, try airing them down a bit and re cut the siping grooves to be like a quater inch wide and somewhere around an eigth inch deep.

I have a buddy with a blaster that is fairly built and he has a pwk for the new motor. The bike is a stroker with head and port work and it has all the supporting goodies to go along with it. I have never tuned a stryker series carb and was just looking for a little info on the intracacies of the stryker carb. I started the bike with a 55 pilot and it was hella rich, so I bumped it back to a 50 and it is still way rich. After looking around I have saw some bikes that have pilots down in the mid 30's to low 40's. I also found that the mains are typicaly lower on strykers compared to its standard pwk cousin. Any one know why a stryker jets so much differently then the regular pwk?It was just so weird and almost felt like I was gonna under jet by going under 50 on the pilot. Any kehin gurus got some handy tips or hints for tinkering with these carbs?

Well, I don't wanna sound like a dick, but there are a few folks who obviously would be asking for a new topend or they could give a shit less about whether your motor runs or not. C'mon guys! You are really gonna tella a guy to just run his bike in the cold and see what happens with out even finding out how it's current tune is? Pretty fucked up. Anyway ec, how was the warmer weather tune? Yeah a 160 sounds a bit rich to me in those temps, even on a pretty built bike. The only way to be sure is pull the plugs and see how they look. If they are tan, you're close. Now decide if the tan is more dry and chalky or if it is a bit more moist. If they are on the moist side you are ok to ride in a little bit cooler temps. If they are on the chalky side bump the main up just a cunt hair. Maybe put the needle clip down one spot as well. The pilot should usually be ok unless you had it as lean as it can be. Try seeing if it runs better on the bottom with the air screw turned in a turn or two. If so give it just a little bit more pilot.

Uhh........guys, I assure you they aren't just dipping parts in liquid N2. The parts are first brought down to -320 degrees below zero over a period of a day or even days. Then the temperature is slowly cycled to heat in the upper hundreds of degrees for the same period of time. The gas is dispersed in a very precice way and is nowhere near just dipping stuff in liquid N2. If you were to do a motor you need to dissassemble it entirely and remove seals and or gaskets so they dont crack in the extreme cold or melt/burn in the heat treating. Gotta google it, there is so much awesome stuff being done with this process.

Man, Zilla......... That is just the price you are gonna have to pay. Or just smoke a fat chunk o' meth and get to tearing that motor down. Otherwise you are just gonna have to sit there in the darkest corner of your hole with your little pud in your hands wondering " what could of been". The only outcome at this point is when you are taking your motor apart next year, you will be looking at pure carnage thinikin " Man, I bet if I cryotreated that, it would be in one piece." Lmao

Hey Snop, are those sleeves similar to the iron sleeves that Cam at Redline shows on his site? I am trying to put together something along the elusive lines of have your cake and eat it to. I dig the serval, but would like to build something in the area of that cub you show the dyno sheets. I just cant get any info on what guys are really doing to them as far as how you got the torque and still got a good high 90' s in power.

Really, no body willing to dish out the details? Cam, Snop, Andy.................

Those are pretty cool for a play setup. I bet they hold up decent. I would love a set to put on when we are just goofing off so I don't have to beat on my good race tires and studs.

Don't know why every one makes this so complicated. The tamers USED to be the hot ticket when they were the only blocky profile tire that would have a good base for several studs. NOW there is the Cheng Shin tire made SPECIFICALLY for holding studs. The rubber is optimised to be soft enough to give flex or cushion, yet firm enough to hold studs with out being brittle. There will always be a pioneer out there, but the tamers are junk! They throw studs, leak air, vibrate like mad, and just never hold up very long. F the tamers.

Really, looks like you got a reason to blow it up man.

The results from the process are almost infinate. Cryo treatment is used in many industries from tool and die to misc machine jobs. It makes metals stronger, provides better wear capabilities, helps with more consistant thermal expansion in pistons and cylinders, helps flexable parts like springs keep a consistant rate even under temperature and heavy use, etc. It is done by nascar teams, rally champs, top fuel all stars, even Military machine and arms production. I really wish there were more people who knew about the process. I would reccomend almost any metal part on any motor, machine, or weapon be put through cryo treatment. Alot of subaru guys look to the process for tranny parts after they get around 500 hp. There isn't much aftermarket for the internal tranny parts, and if there is it is expensive one off parts that cost thousands of dollars and usually a cryo treated oem part is able to take the same abuse. I will just list a part and talk briefly of the benefit Head/domes- better thermal expansion and cooling Cylinders-more wear resistant as well as better expansion with the piston also cools better Pistons/rings- same as cylinders Tranny/clutch parts- STRENGTH! as well as better wear capabilities Clutch springs- last longer and keep more consistant feel and pressure, less fade under temp Crank - Strength to take harshest punishment Bearings- longer life due to better strength and wear, and their supporting parts last longer Rotors- on for two seasons, barely looks like pads touch it The list goes on and on, check out the detailed info over at www.300below.com. I personaly have used 300 Below and they were fast. They had a discrepancy on price when they saw how much was in my lil ol banshee engine but they did go back to the price originally qouted in the shifter cart engine sheet. To do the entire motor will problably run about 400 now from them. However, I did find a guy in michigan who is from nascar country in north carolina, who is way cheaper, but the batch of parts needs to be bigger to make maximum bang for the buck.

I have cryotreated my entire motor last year and I am getting ready to do some more parts again this year. The thing is it takes alot of nitrogen, so many shops who do the process tend to have a minimum order size that they will run to make the cost up of the nitrogen. I only want to do some pistons and a head this time around and it would cost the same as if I do alot of parts. Usually the starting rate would be around $150 and I could problably squeeze in a tranny and clutch parts if any one would like to split the cost. It is the same process that WCR does to all their trannies. I am in michigan, so any locals interested would be a bonus. Check out the process @ www.300below.com

Loui Swan is the owner of Twister Crankshafts. He builds pretty bad ass toys and is the pioneer of tripple cylinder bikes. Twistercrankshaft.com There are alot of pictures on his site. Google his stuff and you will not need to look at any porn for a week afterwards. There is a long travel bike with a green body out of carbon fiber that Twister contributed to heavily and it is sick!

Those pj carbs have the actual alky conversion done? If so sell them, and get some pwk's or even strykers with the money. The pj's are an ok carb, just a little more finiky in weather and temp changes then most carbs. Not to mention if there is humidity, your day will definitely be less then stellar. I used to spend so much time playing with mine that I even had myself convinced that I liked to wrench on it as much as I like to ride it. But if you are bound and determined, start off with a 158 main, and work your way down. You may need to go as low as say........152. For the needle, you didn't say wich one you currently have in them. Just start the needle on the bottom clip and worked up. I actually got rid of the cgl needles that came in mine for some del needles and It helped tremendously. For a pilot, maybe a 58-55. Start bigger! I learned every thing I know now about jetting from mistakes. Expensive mistakes! Man I wish I knew about this site the first couple motors I destroyed as a kid. A child left alone with a built banshee will either become a wiz, or the biggest quitter you met. Good luck man.