trickedcarbine

bump, didn't there used to be a kit for this

OK so this is an old thread, but I thought it was ineresting and so I thought I'd bump it. true the banshee can stay cool........till it's hopped up and then you have to shell out bucks for a good radiator. However, a shee could benefit from a thermostat by keeping water in the radiator for a longer period of time for more air to pass through it, thus cooling the coolant inside the radiator more thuroughly before it passes through the motor once again. Similar to how individuals with water to air intercoolers on their factory supercharged svt lightnings and cobras use voltage reducers to slow the factory pumps just a little bit to give the liquid heat exchanger more time to cool the fluid.

Good call loco, the 450 arms are ok ..........JUST OK compared to actually spending money on banshee style stuff. Reason being is because of the geometry of the ball joints is way cocked and very much in a life span shortening position. If you are gonna do a full conversion including spindles and all the other goodies, then ok, but for the price of all that You can find a very nice setup DESIGNED for a banshee. I guess if there is a way cheap setup off 450 you know of and absolutely don't wanna hold out on the more expensive stuff O.K. I personally love the armadillo arms on my shee and thay are less then any good looking 450 components on ebay.

Looking to buy a Banshee fly wheel in good condition, prefferably newer year to avoid rust and corosion,

I absolutely love lakes! Any time I need anything they stop to help me out and the same goes for anybody I send there. Not sure on the in house dyno thing , cuz I make their dinner every wedsday when his wife comes in, and I'm pretty sure she mentioned that mike had to PACK UP to move a few bikes over to the dyno shop. Any way here's a thread with a few positive reviews on them. They also have a high reputation on one of the blaster forums. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=117694&view=&hl=lakes motorsports&fromsearch=1

Dont those power bands only work with the boost bottle mod?

Thanks daj... I appreciate the thoughts on the tranny, especially that super dunable. I think I'll throw in just a stock rz tranny this week on my big bore stock stroke bike just to see how it handles the ice cuz it will never see under 3rd or 4th depending on the lake I race. Just wanna see if it works out like the newer 450 dirt bikes, 4th on a straight 3rd in turn, Maybe. just wanna see how it works out and if it is bunk I'll throw the stocker in before actually racing.

The reason I want the rz drum modded is so I can get a bigger more smooth bearing on it, since the thing is 20 something years old its time to change any way and 15 more dollars of quality isn't too big a deal. As far as the cases go I'm not welding the seam all the way around, but the area where epoxy would normally go after trenching, and the crank will definitely have longer then 115 rods cuz it will be a 7-10 mill similar to loboboy's setup so I can flattrack and ice race. as for the cryo treatment the little added assurance is worth it cuz I'm not able to afford billit tranny and cases so I gotta do what I can.

I hope that french fuck is finallly puttin oem replacement "SYLE" boots on his coils.Had a few problems with that guy and his service sucks Dick! He claims oem style replacement but it comes with old style boots that will not go on to any Ngk or champion plug I've seen people running in their banshees. Had to reuse my old stock boots. The coil is alright, But nothing special, The plate is garbage though! Both mine and a guy I ride with from up north had those cheap ass plates wobble the ears for the mounting holes break/crack off and wound up with a stator that looked like hillbilly teeth. The fly wheel, hell I had to replace that to cuz the stator destroyed the inside of it once it let loose.I actually got his stuff and with in minutes was pissed that the bolts/screws were only hand tightened and I had to take the whole thing apart and loctite every thing.My pops is a machinist so I know to not overtighten/strip aluminum, especially cast. My best advice is to check all hardware twice and make sure that plate gets Loctite,and try to save 50 bones to get a new chariot plate instead ASAP. As far as the plugs, Br8 NGK is usually what people say, However Duncan Racing states that bikes with hotter ignitions or higher compression should avoid the 8 series plugs and go with a 9 series plug to combat heat.Personally my bike runs better on the br9. http://duncanracing.com/TechCenter/Nat_YamahaBansheeNatKitAssemblyNotes5-20-04.pdf the link is for their national kit tips, but its equel to moderately built motor

http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=121591 here is a little info on this topic from the past. I have been investigating this topic for a couple months and will definitely be swapping when I go 10mil with a vitos big block. less of that shift, shift, shift, pray......... and alot more click, I'm haulin my combo will be -Rz drum with whitaker drum mod and cryo treatment -Rz cluster with E-Z shift cut and cryo treatment -stock cases trenched and WELDED and cryo treated W-C-R http://www.w-c-r.com/PRICING.htm they can make ur rz parts stronger

Your microfiche.... http://www.angelfire.com/hi3/smokeonthewater/rztech.html

thanks bbc, already runnin r6 in the rear and btw a couple of your write ups on this topic have already helped that process for the rear. just looking for a shop that works with afcos or another similar company with expertise in this style set up for the front with out workin with works cuz I hate them dicks now.

I have been researching rz bottom end parts and components for quite some time now and have found that my best locator is to just look on ebay and shoot an e-mail to any one selling low end components and ask what they have available. I have located at least 3 drum and fork assemblies like this. Just havn't had the money to jump on them. This place has a resource page that should help as well http://www.scooterhelp.com/RZ_help/restorations/engine.start.html I'll try to post as many links as I can find in the next day or so

I am looking to find some one to help with setting up a pair of flat track shocks, but don't have a clue where to start. I would of posted in the flat track forum but the traffic over there has really slowed, any help would be appreciated.

wich one were you? the yellow and black one? that guy was killin it on that honda 4 poke wasn't he? too bad he had problems once he started showin off, but it was aa amazing set up and that thing was just damn fast! I hope to practice on my lake and see if i'll be able to hold my own but i gotta get some issues sorted out on my shee.

Ok, the bike pulls through to 4 then just wont rev and falls out of the power band. as far as the compression I am running sunoco 110 with bel ray synthetic at 40:1. I went up in the main and it still looks lite brown on a br9 plug. I run the br9 plug to try to help with keeping the heat down with the compression and timing i have. Could this be an ignition problem due to an RM STATOR failing and eating the inside of my fly wheel. The main question is will the bike run better if i can get it to idle even though the choke/idle screw is in all the way. also the gearing is 14-41 on 20 inch tire

hey chris, exattly wich walmart light do these go in. i was runnin some of those rectangle blue fog lamps but they were not quite what i was lookin for.

hey chris, exattly wich walmart light do these go in. i was runnin some of those rectangle blue fog lamps but they were not quite what i was lookin for.

I'll be racing a few this year. prolly the flint and white lake races, the rest will just be fun with buddies. we should stay in contact and maybe rep the hq at a few events. It is my first season on ice so I expect to get my arse handed to me but i also hope to learn alot and any one already runnin a shee with a few pointers would be awsome. at the very least we can toy with some 4 pokes.

my jetting is 55 pilot, cel on middle clip, with 155 main. i currently am using velocity stacks(screened) with no pods to dial in my ice setup. the plug reads lean up top even with my pods on instead of my stacks. I'll try to set up a leak down test. any other ideas mucho appreciated. brett

every body will bad mouth the power jets and dial a jets, but give them a try. once you get your adjustment for low and high elevations, find a way to rig a little handle on it with a stop so that while your riding wou can just stick ur hand under there and slap it. I have seen bikes set up for pikes peak style riding with this mod when i was in washington. I tried to take pix of a 310 powervalve 250r motor with a spring loaded setup that I believe was esr built but was immediately shouted at so you gotta use your imagination.

Ok gettin chilly here in michigan so i had a day off to play with the carbs and decided to tinker with the choke screw and have found that it appears to run down low way harder, but my 5-6 gears are totally lean, enough so that it just wont pull any rpm what so ever. I know i gotta tinker with the main to fix the top. However would I be wrong by trying to close the choke/idle screw all the way in and using my carb top adjusters to get a good idle? Mods in sig.

just a quick note, you can get the shift pro cheaper on ebay and problably a modded star as well if you feel like sitting down long enough to find it. I believe they are even on ebay direct (cascade). Plus jeff mods the upper and lower area on the shaft. same amount as what savage posted just both sides.

well, depends on what ur riding is. I personally feel that it would be wise. I am actually gonna get one cut at passion and cryotreated for my bike. the debate is that the gears are to big and that the shee needs the shorter gearing to get up and go, but i got enough mods to make the torque to pull it. Plus I feel that to ride the banshee I have to shift way to much and I hope that the rz tranny will smooth out that traction issue we all love and hate. For example take a look at the newer 4 stroke bikes out right now. Some of the pro bikes never leave 3-4 and on the smaller indoor supercross tracks there are are bikes that are in 2-3 and only touch 4 on a long straight. I'm actually building my bike strictly for flat track and ice racing and am confident that the rz cut may be for me. Not sayin it's for you, but if you have the ability to swap one out your self then go for it. You can always change back to your stock setup if it isnt what you thought. Plus it'll break 100 alot easier and be a blast if you're on the open stuff

hmmm...I love that there has been so much r&d into this situation. Any way, I have used the maxima, and the plastic renew. Maxima never lasts but looks cool if u just want it pretty in the garage, the plastic re-new is ok, but it has to be done in ultra fine coats And ure really spending all ur money on is industrial floor sealer. So now thats what I use and it lasts for a long time, alot of guys say im nuts, but when they see my plastic they say it's genius. Here's the process: Wet sand with SOAPY water to 2000 grit. (the soap is just a lil' lube) Rinse and dry rub thouroughly with 0000 ultra fine steel wool after dry and rinse again clean with any degreaser(409,fantastic,etc.) acquire industrial type floor sealant and both 4" and 2" sponge style paint brushes Obviously use the 2" for tight areas and the 4" for large open areas Apply 3-5 ULTRA THIN coats allowing about 15-20 minutes for each to set and dry. I only use the steel wool again if there are any bubbles, runs, or dust and grit landing Buff the plastic with a good cloth and compound of ure choice, power tools are only a go if you absolutely know how not to burn through, Otherwise you'll be doing the whole thing over again. Mud falls right off and it is easily maintained with regular hose downs (I use an electric power washer). any tough spots are taken care of with MR. Clean Magic Eraser Happy trails and good luck, it takes hard work to look good while riding hard.