trickedcarbine

Agreed

I must admit though. A little over confident goin to powder so fast. I cant wait to see your face when/if that pretty white frame needs more cutting and grinding Sorry bud.

"ZillaFreak, on 05 January 2012 - 09:55 PM, said: it looks a little weak where the base of the frame connects to the a-arm part also have you check the a-arm motion yet?" "Domestic_beotch, on 05 January 2012" There is a plate that runs on the bottom of the rebuilt section tieing in to the un-modified section. There is also a pair of gussets on each side. kinda boxes in the whole section. Checked the A-Arm motion? Really? Yeah they goes uppedy down diddy real niicee! Seriously though, the ball joint motion is the same if not better then the full flight set up. They are decent arms, but they really needed sorting. Again this was supposed to do a easy low complicated build. Not a re engineering project. Hence the modification of the A Arms I already had. The only issue may be getting the bump steer sorted by tweaking stem height to correct the motion of tie rods. Also wanna mention that the heim joints will eventually with extreme angle ball joints once spring comes and the bike is on long travel shocks. This post has been edited by domestic_beotch: Yesterday, 10:20 PM" The plate on the bottom runs along the butted rails and is shaped like a Y so it ties to the original part of the frame. Not to mention it was 1/8th inch. The frame is litterally exact banshee dimensions, just narrowed and a few more degrees of rake if that puts in to perspective. Every thing cycles really smooth and uniform, but there is a touch of bump steer. but with the amount of travel it really isnt much. Especially compared to a stock Banshee. there really wasnt much time to keep beating on it with ice season starting up soon here in michigan so we just went for it. If we gotta build a new spindle for the bump steer then so be it. Some times these projects go stale after it is on the bench for to long. so the goal was to just get it to the races and sort it out from there. That is the same situation many pros find themselves in when they are "TESTING" new set ups. Half the battle is even getting it to the track to try out wich is more then most nay sayers will ever accomplish. I am actually pretty stoked that this dude saw pictures and had the balls to say "fuck it, lets do it!" Again, more then most people will ever accomplish.

Larry is a stand up guy. I have been buying parts form komisar motorsports for a few years now. Got a solid deal on a candy blue frame for 325 and never looked back. Always has quality stuff at great prices. His ebay stuff is as described and never trys to make a paycheck with your shipping costs. If you are in michigan he is always willing to be flexible for meeting in person.

Bigboremotors.com that should be the web site. John is an incredible guy, and shares all the tricks. Pretty rare for a pikes peak winner.

Building a new engine top to bottom, one of the few parts I can't seem to find on our site sponsors web pages is all new transmission bearings. I know I just use a maxload on the sprocket side, but where do I get the rest. Also is there any aftermarket heavy duty replacements besides TSS in Australia.

There was a pair of those in the forsale section. Wondered if they got swooped up. Any way, I have heard of guys taking old school Rex's and swapping to normal modern pistons and getting new domes made. Not many guys are really playing with them any more. About the only guy I know that's still pushing the limit on them is Tony Doukas at TDR. They have like three url names for their website. Try Bansheedepot.com Good luck with that thing, it may not be the meanest monster in the bunch, but the look on people's faces when they see what that little ol stock stroke can do will be priceless!

Be nice to see yours finished! I know, I know... nut swinging. But seriously, that thing is bitchin'!

Agreed. In the past I have mentioned a choking situation with the transfers. However I need to clarify my view. It's not that the sleeve is choking down the transfers, it is the issue that the transfers kinda max out flow and it just isn't quite enough to take advantage of those added CC's and really shine above 421+ . So the 65-68mm big bore sleeve would work excellent, while one of the 68+mm sleeves wouldn't be much of an improvement.

Man Brooke, didn't hear a damn thing from ya last season. Where ya' been?

The 2/1 setups are usually a bit tricky to learn because there are 2 cylinders pulsing the carb. It makes it all the more critical to jet spot on, so that the motor will pull thru the whole rpm range without funny spots. Try swaping to an EEK needle. It is a pretty common choice for two cylinder motors with a single carb, and it helps the transitions from pilot, and coming on to the main.

Just use a machinist straight edge to measure the full stroke of the piston. 54mm is stock, 58mm is 4mil.

Those are definitely ported. Looks like they were done well, but in the photo it appears as if the bridge in the intake is gone. Not a big deal to fix. Just use brazing rod to build up the metal even with the sleeve, and a dremel to match the profile of what is left. Remember to hone and chambfer it all again after the work. Those motors can run pretty good with the 4 mil cranks. They can make gobs of torque, just kinda nevvdr saw one stay together long in the 75/80 HP range. As for the question about crank and pistons, you will need to have the ports on the cylinders adjusted for the 4 mil crank. The pistons should be chosen according to the rods on the crank. Long rod crank is preferable, so +5mm wrist pin pistons from WSM or Vitos. The WSM were my choice due to price and availability. They can be found through Tony Doukas Racing for the best deal and be at your door in 2/3 days.

Ok, I don't wanna sound like a Dick, but this needs to be said. YOU.....WILL....NOT....SELL.... THAT....ROLLER.... You are a shop owner? Obviously the wrench man, and not the salesman. Your guy bought the bike and you fellas were pissed it had to be gone through and properly set up. So why the hell would you take a purpose built flat track chassis, set it up for drag and expect some one to buy it as a TT chassis that needs to be set up for....... TT? None of your photos depict the upselling points, key adjustability parts, up close on the fabrication quality,etc. You still have the long swing arm on it? WHY? And why would you tell the customer to part it out? What is there that people can buy? Calipers, plastic, axle, wheels and tires? Congratulations, he is now left with a flat track frame set up for drag that needs to be set up for flat track that no one will ever buy. Those are all the reasons I won't buy it, probably the same for most. You just have to consider the fact that anyone serious enough to go to a full custom frame, is probably smart enough to know that your current offer is a total mishmash of headache. I apologize, but if you guys get the setup right, someone might bite. Hell, i want it, but I won't buy a flat track frame set up for drag. Maybe push it as a light weight drag frame to the drag guys? Dunno, just letting ya know that the current plan of attack isn't working. Your guy open to any trade?

Saw wheelman's stuff in person this weekend, and it is all top notch. Hell, that 10 mil of his got up and outta the crater on the line real nice and kept tracking straight as an arrow. Not to mention it moves a lot nicer then most 10 mil setups, and that is with the big man at the bars.

Holy Hell, that was a killer time. Lotta bikes in a few categories, so there was no shortage of grudge racing. I got a shit ton of videos, just gotta get time to upload them. Need to re-register Photobucket for some reason.Man, I need to get the new drag project moving.

Bout what time are you fellas gettin started?

well, this is only my opinion based on my experience and the knowledge that has been passed down from reputable banshee veterans. the TZ is a kick ass bearing, in fact the cylindrical roller bearing is probably the stoutest bearing designs out there. However there times when it"s use must be evaluated. Normally in a smaller motor it is not necassary, and the additional cost can be spent else where by just using a max load on the crank side. In higher HP bikes many guys jump right on the TZ bearing, but typically a Maxload will suffice unless the bike makes monster power. The thing many people forget is that the TZ bearing needs to be paired with straight cut primaries, wich only adds to the cost. Some may argue that view, but think physics for a second. With the helical gears there is a tendancy for the crank to side load. Now with a ball bearing setup like a Maxload the balls will just adjust torsionally and roll through the flex. With the Straight edged cylindrical rollers of the TZ, the load is applied to the sides of the roller, wich in turn causes side wear and/or even outer race stretching. Of course the abount of wear is minute and the race stretch is minimal, but over time it adds up to loose tolerances, or roller debris in the bearing, and the outcome of such a situation is anything but cheap unless caught by preventative maintainence.

Gonna come down and watch, bring a few buddies. This is sure to get me cracking on my drag build after my flat tracker is done.

I bet it would be more like 20 psi if there was a cool sticker on that thing

If you are willing to seperate the motor and chassis, you should put another posting in the for sale section. That motor will probably definitely go quick. As for the chassis, throw on the shorter swinger and get photos of all the details. It was made to be a flat track/TT chassis, so highlighting those qualities will help get it sold. For instance light weight chromoly, lower radiator for low center of gravity, ultra adjustable, dual piston calipers, etc. I have pictures of it as well if you want them. They are from when the short swinger was on it. Might sell easier in the flat track forum, if it doesn't look like a drag bike. Hell, what are you asking for the chassis?

Interested in a set of cylinders possibly the cases. Are the cyilnders unported? looking for bone stockers if possible. As for the cases, no leaks, repairs? brett

Damn, I almost bought that thing. Sure glad I just kept my own shitty pile of headaches instead. Sorry to hear you lost on a gamble to someones project. It happens, hope someone is willing to sort it all out so your wallet can recover

IMO, there is no way that kit is worth the money. Maybe 8/10 years ago when there was only the LA sleeve mono, T-Rex, etc. But now there are entire cylinder kits that will get you more for the same price as properly setting up sleeves. Hell, $400 for the kit, $200 for top notch precision sleeving, $3/$400 for porting, and that is just the start. It is old technology, and it almost holds your cylinder back on porting. It chokes the transfers when you just stuff the big sleeves in. Of course you could get your transfers welded and opened up before the new sleeves go in, but that is another additional cost. I have that same kit in my bike and I am so sick of the headaches of big bores in stock cylinders. It has taken me alot of time and money to get mine to run like a big bore 80 horse 4 mil should. I will find a link on a lot of set up tips if you are still set on it. But consider this....... a standard dune port on race gas from almost every builder on our site sponsor list will make about 80 horse reliably if you have the right set up. And they will do it for $3/400. Way less then mine cost, way less down time, and way less headache.

Man, dude for a young fella you are kick ass at what you do. Fast turn around with a solid mechanical understanding. I can seriously say if you found a way to make a jig and made a weld on kit like the sub frame guys, you would have a steady demand. Hell every one criticizes people for wanting to rework the frame for moto, but look how many drag guys chop their shit up. Can't believe there aren't shops doing this. You friggin killed it, and as soon as you get it dialed I'd be willing to get mine done if you were lookin for cash. Billybobby, you would have pictures of that magazine cover queen, with its outlaw frame and efi. LMAO! That thing is titties. I would sell my soul to own that thing.