trickedcarbine

I've been against them from the get go. I'm glad you were able to verify my theory on them for snowy tracks. Long live the flat profile tire

What kinda Aussie shit is that!

Are you running hangers on the silencers? I've seen a bike with r2's mounted with them and thought it looked a bit low.

I'm not sayin' jereme is right about this guy, but could be. On that note, I love when guys get on here and they post a topic with zero research and then they cuss every one out and say how stupid we all are and act like they aren't mad yet post pissy shit for weeks before they disappear. OP, if you think it is toast, it probably is. Give it a leak down test. Then compression test if you can get the kicker free. Then take it apart and inspect each part like a surgeon. These motors aren't to complicated once you get it apart. Don't take it to the local shop because it almost always results in lack luster results unless you live up the road from Redline or WildCard or someone similar. Just continue to post photos and all specs of the motor and folks here will get you squared away.

Noooo.... You copy and pasted that shit right? Because really it won't work but your post is the most intelegent sounding babble I've heard in a while. It was awesome

Also should be noted: there are a bunch of guys buying the FAST clutch and pairing it with a lock up. That is a bit to much spring pressure for any lock up and you should consider asking Jeff for maybe 6 stockers instead. Maybe even 3 stockers and 3 HD springs. My current set up is the Barnett kit with 3 stock style and 3 HD. They are also different lengths. It should also be mentioned this is a 80 horse bike that signs off at about 9,000

I know that for years guys have been using the blaster style pistons due to availability and there are several builders that swear the flatter dome profile creates a bit more power. Can any one elaborate how a flatter piston crown profile creates better power? Just curious because I'm gonna make some changes to the current set up till the hybrid is done.

Give it a clip on the needle and a 158 on the main if it ran right with those T5's.

Really cool concept, just afraid that the carbon fiber thing needs a little bit more R&D before I would trust it with power. There have been guys experimenting with carbon fiber driveshafts for a while now and they are not holding up to the drag racing at all. But they are great in the light weight lower power NASA and Iron road race type cars.

It might not totally kill the bottom end but it would definitely carry less ottom end. You could make up for it with compression since you need to have domes cut for the blaster pistons anyway. In my opinion though, don't bother. Run the serval the way it was intended. If you wanna get more out of it port it. I guess you could run the Vito's slugs like a test to see how it would feel with a bit of work, but that the CP cylinder has a totally different port layout then what the Vito's pistons are made for. So it probably wouldn't run right.

If the bike has several seasons on it I would assume that the basket and inner hub are starting to get chatter marks on them. It is the wear pattern that forms in the grooves where the clutch plates ride.

I know the synthetics are designed around some crazy ratios, but I'm always gonna be a bit hesitant to put 100:1 ratio through my own bike.

Exactly. The Driveline/Vito's slingshots come with directions that can give you a pretty good baseline right out of the box for basic motor combos. For instance they reccomend 2 balls in all the short slots for 4mm dune/drag bikes. For any thing bigger they say to add weight to the long slots. But with a little creativity you can really dial it in for your particular combo. My only beef with the sling shot is that I am starting to fiddle with it my clutch for track size and how tight the turns are now, and NOBODY makes a cover for them. I am looking high and low for a used Twister, Duncan, Mattoon stock modded cover if any one has one.

Yessir. I do. I have found that clutch tuning isn't just for drag stuff and that with a little thought you can set up any clutch for any riding style. I found a way to make my clutch slip out of the turns just right so that it keeps the front end under control and let's the motor rev right up in to the meat where my motor makes its best power. The best way to answer the OP's question. You wanna find the balance between just enough slip and to much slip to keep the motor reving where it makes power yet control the way the bike puts the power down and does so with out any bogging or hesitation. To much lock up and it falls on its face, to little and it's revved to the moon and slipping. In turn costing you clutch life. Learning to tune your clutch is going to be time consuming if you are really serious about getting it right. It might even cost you some dollars on new clutches and steels. Check out the lock up tuning thread and take notes. There is a lot of good stuff there that years ago guys said was crazy or nonsense. Now they are all doing it on their bikes.

FTZ has built some monsters so..... Don't expect some cake walk.

Yeah, compression and stroke is a good way to mess up a foot and expensive parts. How are you beefing the cover Slo? Or you just running something like a Mattoon or SFB

Little bit more progressive if you play with the long slots as well. There's also different weight and material balls from McMasterCarr to mess with with. Here was a pretty decent set up I played with.

Huh, ya don't say.....

They might be salvageable....

You will see a ton of guys put them in the hose from the radiator to the clutch cover, but it is no where near as accurate as going from the head to the radiator.

Yep, sure was! Guess you should do all the talking from now on..... Btw, how many posts are there on here with you commenting on dyno curves?

I know the PV's don't make more power, but they make for a bit more of a usable curve. And that particular motor has more top end then comparable motors and just as good of a curve as any cheetah without the PV's.

What kind of work is done to it? Did you change anything in the carbs to compensate?

Doesn't really matter if it's bored or has fresh pistons. If it makes good uniform compression in both cylinders it's probably pretty good to go

If they had stainless pegs they would no doubt be a great deal. But they don't so I hope you are handy with a file!