trickedcarbine

no, not really. No more then chrome. They will get the same blue and gold tint from jetting issues though. Kinda what you see in one of the pics. There are a lot of fellas with raw pipes that look like shit and they don't need to.

First you need to start sanding the entire pipe thoroughly with the 220 grit. Move through 220, 320,400,600,800, & 1000 grit till the pipe is starting to look reflective. Now that the pipe is sanded down nicely (1/2 hour a pipe roughly) You can start to run them on the buffer. Start with the coarse hard spiral sewn and black(or substitute compound) You will insatantly start to see progress. Then move in to the brown cake on the firm spiral. Next is white on the medium wheel. Then white on the soft. Finally red rouge on the soft loose buff. Make sure to not mix compounds on the same wheel. Now you give them the final luster with master formula on a micro fiber cloth or bonnet. Give it a good amount of elbow grease till it has no residue left. Finally throw the sealer gloss on them. This will allow the pipe to see elements with out turning to a rusted chunk of shit. Note, those rockets are absolutely raw. I bought the last set of stampings from Dave the last known owner of Rocket brand. These things came to me rough and rusty! Now they look like chrome. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk - now Free

Ok, I always get people asking how I get all my parts to look as good as show chrome when in fact they are raw. I learned to polish metal from a jeweler/metal craftsman, or should I say craftsWoman. Stuff you need: Bench grinder/buffer Wheels: Spiral sewn hard, spiral sewn firm, spiral sewn medium, medium loose, soft loose buff. Misc. detail stuff Compounds: Black emery cake(aggressive), brown cake( kinda aggressive), white tripoli (medium-fine), red rouge (fine). Or any variation of the above. Finishing polish, master formula. Nothing else. Definitely not this Gloves: Make sure to have welding gloves, because when the wheel is really cutting, the metal gets hot. It will actually start to make residual oil in the pipe start to smoke. Orbital sander: Any orbital will due. Make sure to has an array of pads from 220 grit to 1000. This is about the gist of what is needed. I'll post the process separately. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk - now Free

Pancake replaces stock adjuster, DD unit goes over pressure plate, clutch stuff goes in the basket. Toss the rubber cushion o ring thingy. Start with 1 friction, then one plate, one friction, one plate, one friction, one plate, one friction, one plate, one friction, one plate, one friction, one plate, and finally the 7th friction. Then the plate. Make sure to index the pressure plate mark properly so that you don't feel like an idiot when it all doesn't work. Don't forget to do a Billit basket and new plate.

Try renegade racing fuels. Pretty sure they are shipping alky and race fuel directly to the public.

^ finally, someone else who gets it. Haha

I've got a passion set up, and none of your issues. Get a head for the domes him cut you. The spacer to shim up the head is garbage. Also, check that the electrical is good, then get it dialed in on he jetting. Also, a little timing could help you out as well. Not being a dick, but really that set up sounds like a sloppily thrown together pile of accumulated parts. Jim's 12 port stock cyl motors can really fucking fly, but it's up to you to put the right set up together.

Why thank you my good man. It's a trick from all my friends that attended West Point and Harvard. Pretty classy.....

Bearing, seal, metal shim/washer, spring, actuator, retainer. Make sure that is all there.

Not if you point your gun in their face and take it....

All the essentials are done. Now enjoy that fucker. Ride it and save money till it quits running. Then do a sweet 4mil or bigger motor.

Down at the turn is a bitch. Takes some patience to open transfers up.

Ditch your timing key for a normal woodruff key and a timing plate. That helps with reliability. That way you don't risk shearing a junk key. There are several site sponsors that should be able to get your crank squared up and welded. I would try FAST. Also make sure to go through the whole bottom end and replace all the little OEM misc parts. Do the typical shift mods and maybe even have the messed with. Way nicer to ride when you don't miss any shifts. As far as the super stock pistons, that is a pretty good bang for the buck. I'd reccomend actual portwork though, but those are a good way to get more pep if the budget doesn't allow porting/set up. Seals, K&S or OEM. Maybe see if you can find a different set of pipes. Other then that, seems like you have a good general idea of what to do. Let us know how it turns out.

Who ported, and are there at least domes to go with the cylinders?

Bitchin. Just in time. Seems like a lot of other good options have moved on.

^ priceless info!

I've had that exact thing happen many times. Some folks just gorilla tighten shit that doesn't need it. Try heating the surrounding aluminum with Map gas and use a punch to give it a good whack. More often then not, that'll make 'em come out of there if you can grab on to them with some pliers. If it still needs motivation, use a small sharpened punch to tap it counter clockwise after the map gas. The only thing that still defeats me on occasion are the fucking upper case cylinder studs.

That's a lot of weight for the slingshot. Also, what tire? I would try setting the clutch up back the way you had it with the PVL. Use the stock stuff on a plate and mess with taking a little timing out.

Why, yes. Yes I do...

http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=169603&page=1 http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=170065 http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=169933 http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=143715&page=1 http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=50732

Hmm, will this be redemption or rejection! Stay tuned. (Seems like every time this happens it ends with the vender realizing they should just continue on ripping off folks from other markets) Also: it appears that Rick is a fucking horrible name to give your kid. They almost always become sheisters.

There was a really detailed thread about this a ling time ago. I'll see if I can find the link.

There are so many junk lowering links out there. Yours being one of them. I bet that bushing would go in before they chromed it..... Also, it's kinda bogus to add zerks, but put a bushing in that has no way to let the grease all the way through to the bolt. Just bass akward! Like savage said, get the chrome out of there. Grind it, ream it, drill it, whatever. It's probably better to just send them their shit back and buy a nice one that has nice brass bushings already installed.

Pro design won't have shelf stroker domes. Really they only perform mediocre on stock stroke stuff. Give just about any site sponsor a call and they will help you sort things out. They will ask for a few specs like motor use, fuel type, deck height, engine mods.... Be prepared to know your deck height.....

I'm still not quite ready to get with the times and jump on to the 50:1 synthetic stuff. I have messed with some of the synthetics at 40:1 as I just have a hard time accepting that a motor with several thousand dollars in it will hold up at weed whacker ratios. My stuff is mostly 32:1 with castor