trickedcarbine

Run the 35's unless something about em bugs ya. Just about any manifold that has been produced in the last 5 years will clear the clutch arm.

N2O, any experience with gas filled o-rings like the car guys use? The guy who will be doing my brothers M1 turbo seems to think they are worth the extra coin. I've only used the copper and MLS on boost and never had issues Also, OP. What hard ware are you using to keep this thing together?

It's to early in the morning to be using big words ^

Negative???? Aside from the rubber I rings being ruined in the Cryo process, wouldn't that make a chain to brittle?

After fiddling with a cobbled together nitrous kit, I had everything sourced through NX. They have some of the nicest stuff out there for any nitrous set up. Bump for premium stuff.

^ hot set up if you need to be spark arrested.

That's how shit should look! Race Reflections does great work.

So, after putting the bike on new Hoosiers and snapping the DID 520VM, I decided to look in to a 530 set up. My current set up is 15/39 and I'd like to keep it that way, maybe even go 15/38. After searching and asking around, it seems that the consensus is that I should only swap the Chain and front sprocket to 530. Does that sound legit? I don't mind paying more for the Rear to. I know the 39 rear is tight as it is on a 6 bolt banshee hub, so I definitely get that I will need to do a Honda style hub if I wanna go 38 rear. Any thoughts? I heave heard so many conflicting stories whether the 530 rear is to tight on the hub, or off sets the chain. Should I just get a chain and front sprocket, or just do everything? Sprockets will be PBI, chain might be an RK.

Whoa, bump for a good heads up. Making the move to 530 and have asked a few locals about where to get it in the sizes I need. The Sprocket Specialists came up in a few conversations so I did a little searching and found this. PBI it is I guess.

TDR stocks solid copper ones that I liked on a nitrous set up. Those might be more available.

http://www.cometic.com/technical.aspx

Absolutely. Depending on a few variables. Squish..... Maybe more dependent on a setup.

New replacement stator came so I took my buddy's OEM stator back off. Surprise, high end miss...... Paying $400 to whatever sponsor has a NIB OEM stocker on Monday. Moral of the story. FUCK EVERY/ANY/ALL stator manufacturers. Their is just no way they can get it right every time. So don't risk being that guy with another brand new stator that leaves you behind.

Try that cub in that yellow SE. It would be bitchin' on the back roads and open trails. Cubs aren't so friendly in the tight stuff, but you could totally clutch the hell out of it and make it through. Just takes a lot more stamina.

Don't bother with the pro design head if you expect it to stay sealed up. Re chambered stocker with an MLS style gasket will do the job just fine.

Yeah, they'll get sold soon. I just gotta get time to do the silencers and everything.

Ok, shitty FMF's that were on a muddy machine that burnt up, 10 years ago.... I just did one section first for the thread. First, since these are/were chrome I tried to cut them with an aggressive wheel and black emery cake to see how bad they actually were. They definitely needed some sand out. So 220 it is. All the way to 1000 grit. Now back to the wheel. Black cake and spiral sewn hard wheel. First cut is progress. Next is brown cake on the next to medium spiral sewn. Now we move to the firm/soft wheel with white tripoli. Ok, they're lookin' pretty good, but the real shine comes with the red rouge. Lots of time and remember to keep the wheel red with compound. Throw some finishing polish at it for the real luster. Here's the difference. Notice how you can see the difference in the chrome's texture on the unfinished section. Very similar to the cheap chrome or nickel on shearers. Now you know how to fix it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk - now Free

Boost referenced power jet.....?

Lot of this in the machinery industry.http://www.wttool.com/index/page/product/product_id/49704/product_name/WD-40+Specialist+Long-Term+Corrosion+Inhibitor?gclid=CLOZw6iF6L4CFaFDMgod6UoAow

Try 0000 steel wool and the yellow can WD40 to clean them up. Then brake clean them off and use the master formula sealer.

What kind of turn out do you think will be at the PHMC event? I'd like to drive up if there are a lot of racers.

Master formula is at trade shows and online This year on the show circuit some new company called Sheen Genie has been showing up with the same booth as master formula. Their stuff is not petroleum based like MF so apparently it will not seperate in the cold. However it is kinda shitty in my opinion. Seems to look hazy all the time. Don't let them talk you in to switching.

These took about 2 seasons to rust. Master formula sealer is titties! The rockets were ridden through the whole winter then left for almost a year and only rusted in a few small spots. When I got these they looked worse then those raw OOF pipes you have. Those LED's can look pretty bitchin with about 4 hours of work. You could chrome them but I would definitely raw polish them first either way.

Definitely new o rings and springs. Are they not mounted on the top of the expansion chamber like loco mentioned? There is supposed to be upper mounts like 8" from the headlight mounts. They may need a touch of shimming with washers to not hit the head on the left side. Also get everything loosely mounted together and tweak it to where it should be then torque it tight.

I'm gonna do a really shitty pipe with lots of pics tomorrow. So stay tuned.